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Please help me Identify these speakers

Guitarget

Guitarget

New Member
Hello, i thought some of you experts could lend a hand in helping me identify this speaker. Unfortunately this is the only photo i have, any idea what kind of speaker this is?

Thanks for taking the time
-Tom

speaker.JPG
 
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Very cool thanks. sure looks to be an EPI 150 as shown in the link. Are these known to be good speakers? (will do a search on them tonight) I may have a chance to pick these up fairly cheap, not sure about the price yet though.

Thanks
-Tom
 
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Yes, good speakers. Very pleasing all-around. If you can replace the single part in the crossover and bypass the tweeter adjustment with wire, it's cheap and worth doing.
 
Great thanks. Sounds like an easy mod. What is the "single part" a capacitor or something?
What does bypassing the tweeter accomplish?

Do you have a link to a document or website that explains this process. I'm well versed at soldering etc. just looking for some information on the mod you describe.

Thanks
-Tom
 
It's too simple for a website, but I can tell you. This should be the same even if it ends up being a slightly different model/version:

1. There will be one 10uf capacitor in series with the tweeter(s). Replace that with any decent film cap. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=027-428

2. There will be a switch+resistor(s) or potentiometer/rheostat or L-pad to allow you to turn down the tweeter. Simply take it out of the circuit. It's probably in poor condition, and it's better to adjust treble at line-level (tone controls, EQ, etc.) anyway.
 
Picked these up today, $40 for the pair and in good shape, i haven't had a chance to try them yet since the stereo that was with them had already been sold. The foam surrounds look ok, but i may replace them anyway since they are probably pretty old. will hook them up tomorrow and try them out. The quality and density in these speakers is pretty impressive, brass lined seams in front, brass rings on top, i presume that the rings (and the wood inside the rings) cover assembly screws or dowels, not sure but either way these are some beautiful speakers, cant wait to hear them.

-Tom
 
Plugged these in today, wow pretty darn impressive I'd say. On one of the speakers the tweeter isn't working though, i believe the L-pad (or pot) may be the culprit. I'll just call it a pot for simplicity sake, i realize L-pad's and potentiometers are functionally different though.
What i'd like to do first is just bypass the pot. I have attached a picture of the crossover network. I just want to make sure i'm doing this right and your input is much appreciated. I will refer to the lugs on the pot as A, B and C from left to right.

i THINK what i need to do is the following, clip the capacitor off of lug A, clip the yellow wire off of lug B, solder the yellow wire to the end of the capacitor. (lets assume i have already replaced the cap already, the old one is pictured)
Then, clip all 3 wires from lug C and solder them together. Is that right?

epicure.JPG


Thanks
-Tom
 
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Sorry, i should have clarified that. The speakers are Epicure M150's, same ones you linked to above. Picture was taken through the tweeter hole from the front. your looking at the inside of the back panel. here are a few more shots.

epi2.jpg

epi3.jpg

epi4.jpg

epi5.jpg
 
and just to clarify a bit on the tweeter photo, the one taken on the inside of the speaker. There is a black wire coming out of the goop, that is the negative wire coming from the outside negative terminal. Looks like the capacitor is also soldered to that same spot. The black wire leads to the driver and the cap leads to lug "A" on the pot as seen in the photo. On the other side there is a red wire coming out of the goop (positive side from the outside positive terminal). It then leads to lug C where two more red wires are attached, one goes to the tweeter and one goes to the driver as far as i can tell. i haven't cleared out all the insulation yet or pulled the driver out but I'm pretty sure that is how its wired.
 
hmmm, ya looking at the schematic on the link you posted it appears that there is supposed to be a cap and a resistor on the positive side. but it sure looks like the cap is soldered to the negative side, it's covered by the goop but i can see through it a bit and it looks like that's the case. i will have to pull out the driver tomorrow and see if i can locate a resistor further up the line somewhere. Is it possible that this is an earlier version that was wired a bit different? pot code ends in "71" which probably dates the pot to 1971. This model speaker was supposedly made from 1973-76. i'm sure he had a stock of older pots on hand though, so it doesn't necessarily mean these were made in 1971, he could have easily had two year old pots when he started building these.
 
Gosh, I'm probably being thick, but that wiring seems weird to me. Can anyone help me out on that? It looks to me like you'd always have 5Ω (if that is the pot resistance) in parallel with the tweeter. That would mean the tweeter circuit is about 8Ω when it's turned all the way down (8Ω tweet + 5Ω parallel + 5Ω series), but only like 3Ω when turned up. That can't be right.. What the hell?

As far as your question, yeah it sounds like you have it right. Just the woofer wired straight to the terminals, and then the tweeter wired in parallel just the same, except with the cap in series with the tweeter. It doesn't matter, in that arrangement, which side of the tweeter the cap is on.
 
Thanks dumptruck, ill take a look at the other speaker today and compare the two, maybe somebody wired this one wrong. Either way i will just rewire both of them to match the schematic (minus the pot) and i should be good to go.

-Tom
 
Oh... I bet it's just a 100Ω pot or something instead of 5 so they can wire it like that.. duh. Well, fingers crossed on that tweeter. The odds are not good, but you never know.
 
I finally got around to installing the new caps and bypassing the pot. I wired the speakers exactly as show in the schematic linked above, sans the pot. The speaker(s) sound GREAT! i still have a bad tweeter on one side though. Guess ill be sending it off to humanspeakers.com for a rebuild. It's $40 but should be worth it since i got these speakers pretty cheap and they are very solid and practically antiques at this point. I swapped tweeters and one works fine on both speakers, the other does not, so i know its the tweeter.

What could go wrong with the tweeter anyway? i mean its really just two wires attached to the tweeter dome itself with a magnet on the back, it just seems like such a simple circuit.
The speakers wire connectors appear to be soldered well to the tweeter wires, and the wires themselves are solidly glued to the dome. Is there something inside, out of view that i cant see, just curious how a tweeter could die, which part of it could go bad?

Thanks all for the help.
-Tom
 
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