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“Best” oil for my car threads.

I would say that, with modern cars, make sure you have the exact right specification oil matching the manufacturers requirements. For example, most 4-cylinder turbo engines (an increasingly popular engine type) absolutely require oil formulated to prevent LSPI (Low-Speed Pre-Ignition). The super-dense charge from the turbo makes it important to ensure the oil doesn't ignite. Not using an LSPI oil will significantly increase risk of engine damage.

In our street/track Alfa Giulia 2.0t, we started using Motul 300v a couple months ago (from Pakelo oil previously), which is one of the "best" race oils out there and is also one of the few race oils suitable for a few thousand miles of street use. We've been battling a new temp problem on track for while. The temps are perfect on street, but temps rise to slow-down levels in a lap or two on track. The last thing I suspected was that it was due to changing oils (even though it's the only thing we changed). With further reserach, it turns out that while 300v is one of the best race oils, it doesn't work well with the Alfa 2.0t. The esthers in the 300v are exceptional at pulling the heat out of the engine -- that's what make it a great race oil -- but only if you have a standalone oil cooler that can disipate that heat. The Alfa Giulia QV model has a separate oil cooler -- so it is the best race oil for that application. The Alfa 2.0t has the oil cooler in tandem with the radiator -- so that makes it the worst oil for the 2.0t. The heat the oil pulls out of the engine immediatly heats up the radiator at the same time. Motul 8100 X-clean Gen2 5w-40 looks like the ideal formulation to use -- better than the Pakelo for track -- doesn't have the high esther content of the 300v.

Getting the "right" oil is getting complicated on newer cars. It's not just a matter of getting the right weight of a particular brand -- need to look at the type of oils offered under that brand in those weights. If you follow the manufacturer recommendations for required ratings, you should be good to go though.
 
Friend of mine just bought 8 quarts of some fancy green color oil for his car, and its basically break in oil. We just did main bearings after he wiped it out. I polished the crank to get the copper out of the journals. Personally I would not buy fancy expensive oil for a break in just because its coming right back out. Thats always been a parts store or whatever is on sale oil task. Better oil goes in after the first change

I did however learn that I can just fit a Ford 302 crank on my lathe. Tailstock hangs half off, but its enough to support it for low speed rotation
 
Friend of mine just bought 8 quarts of some fancy green color oil for his car, and its basically break in oil. We just did main bearings after he wiped it out. I polished the crank to get the copper out of the journals. Personally I would not buy fancy expensive oil for a break in just because its coming right back out. Thats always been a parts store or whatever is on sale oil task. Better oil goes in after the first change.
The old-school Kendall GT-1 had a green-and-black color. I think the formula had a lot of Zinc additives. It's a very good oil, but I had to stop using it in my BMW 2002. It would burn more than a quart every 500 miles. I went to Mobil One, and all the burning stopped.

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kendall GT-1 oil color.jpg
 
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FWIW, I`ve been quite happy using Royal Purple synthetic w/WIX brand oil filters in my 1999 purchased Generac brand, LP fueled 1.5 liter Mitsubishi engine whole house capable (25 KW) auto standby genset that runs at a constant 3,600 RPM when operating.

And in the early fall of 2004 while fully powering my house continuously for 9 &1/2 days due to three strong hurricanes plowing through my area in quick succession that trashed the NE. FL.`s power grid distribution system !

Took out the area`s DSL internet service/& landline tel. service as well, but at least, I still had my all day playing background music due to my big 12` dishes digital/analog video programing providing me with multi genre DMX sat. digital music streaming, and it was very nice to have house hold lighting, hot water + all important heat pump providing much desired air conditioning for restful sleeping.
I also use the above mentioned oil and filter brand in my 2006 MINI S, + 1987 Chevy Astro van 4.3 liter for over 15 yrs., as well.
 
I worked in an automotive machine chop for awhile. We sponsored a guy who did mud bogging. An NA BBC making 700+ at the crank. He rolled the truck as a result unconscious for 30 seconds with his foot to the floor...upside down. Wet sump engine so no oil. The engine ended up in my lap. Mud into a couple cylinders. Only needed a few main and rod bearings. Rods crankshaft perfect. Replaced all the bearings, new lifters touched the cylinders for new rings out of caution.

Why did I tell you this? 'Cause everything inside of that engine had Kendall GT-1 clinging to it. Can't find the photos of the lightly scuffed bearing shells but they were in amazing shape considering. Sold me on Kendall for hot rods. Too much ZDDP for anything with a catalytic converter. Goes by the name BradPenn/PennGrade1 these days. Still extracted and refined in Bradford Pennsylvania. Still the same green oil.
 
I worked in an automotive machine chop for awhile. We sponsored a guy who did mud bogging. An NA BBC making 700+ at the crank. He rolled the truck as a result unconscious for 30 seconds with his foot to the floor...upside down. Wet sump engine so no oil. The engine ended up in my lap. Mud into a couple cylinders. Only needed a few main and rod bearings. Rods crankshaft perfect. Replaced all the bearings, new lifters touched the cylinders for new rings out of caution.

Why did I tell you this? 'Cause everything inside of that engine had Kendall GT-1 clinging to it. Can't find the photos of the lightly scuffed bearing shells but they were in amazing shape considering. Sold me on Kendall for hot rods. Too much ZDDP for anything with a catalytic converter. Goes by the name BradPenn/PennGrade1 these days. Still extracted and refined in Bradford Pennsylvania. Still the same green oil.
I used Brad Penn 10W-40 in my 68' Newport. I built a 400 block that was bored and stroked to 512 cubic inches to replaced the well worn stock 383. That little piggy got 12 mpg on the highway on a good day, 7-8 mpg around town. Pretty wild cam that barely made enough vacuum to run the power brakes and a massive 3" thick aluminum radiator to try and keep it cool.

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DSCN0928.JPG
 
I worked in an automotive machine chop for awhile. We sponsored a guy who did mud bogging. An NA BBC making 700+ at the crank. He rolled the truck as a result unconscious for 30 seconds with his foot to the floor...upside down. Wet sump engine so no oil. The engine ended up in my lap. Mud into a couple cylinders. Only needed a few main and rod bearings. Rods crankshaft perfect. Replaced all the bearings, new lifters touched the cylinders for new rings out of caution.

Why did I tell you this? 'Cause everything inside of that engine had Kendall GT-1 clinging to it. Can't find the photos of the lightly scuffed bearing shells but they were in amazing shape considering. Sold me on Kendall for hot rods. Too much ZDDP for anything with a catalytic converter. Goes by the name BradPenn/PennGrade1 these days. Still extracted and refined in Bradford Pennsylvania. Still the same green oil.

I’ve used Brad Penn on vintage cars. It’s a great oil - a synthetic blend, but the Pennsylvania crude base gives it a unique green color.
 
I’ve used Brad Penn on vintage cars. It’s a great oil - a synthetic blend, but the Pennsylvania crude base gives it a unique green color.
They sell straight mineral based oil too. Only in single grade for automotive. Motorcycle oils in 10/40 and 20/50 are mineral based.
Thats the fancy green stuff my friend just put in his. I'm not opposed to good oil, but my usual cheap nature doesn't let me use oil that fancy for the first startup since its coming right back out. Thats the stuff that goes in for the second fill.

They sell a 30 wt break-in oil with tons of ZDDP. Just what the doctor ordered for flat tappet engines. You one of those guys who builds a $10k engine and cries about a $15 oil filter?
 
Not flat tappet, and I don't spend nearly that much on my engines. Last engine I did has been in the car for more than 15 years at this point, has easily 50K on it now. I honestly don't remember what the mileage was. Filters are just boring old Motorcraft FL1A and whatever synthetic oil.

The engine in this car was bearing set #6 in I think 2 years, so I'm not overly inclined to worry about my oil or filter selections.
 
When I rebuilt a few flat tappet engines back in the day I used GM EOS as assembly lube. Whatever was left got put in the engine oil for added ZDDP and whatever else it boosted.
 
A couple years ago I bought a 2017 Volvo S60 as a backup car. It had 109,000 miles on it at the time and is powered by their Drive-e FI motor... high-efficiency and low-friction. It was super clean and was well-maintained at dealers by the original owner. I had Blackwell test the oil, since it was new to me. Results looked great, except there was a little fuel in the oil --probably because it was a short trip to get a test sample.

Volvo specs VCC RBS0-2AE ACEA C5 0W-20 oil for it, but that has not been available in the USA, except at Volvo dealers, and they only have it in drums (according to them). But Liqui Moly and Motul in that spec/standard is imported, so I use the LM (from FCP Euro). As a backup car I only put roughly 700 miles on it each year and usually only drive it once every 2 to 4 weeks. Since it tested clean and that engine is completely sealed I will only change it every 3 years. I am more concerned about something electronic going bad on it, rather than the motor...
 
FWIW, I`ve been quite happy using Royal Purple synthetic w/WIX brand oil filters in my 1999.
I use Royal Purple Synchomax in the Honda S2000 transmission. It's much smoother shifting, especially in cold mornings — compared to Honda MTF.

When the car is warmed up, both have the same feel during shifts. Synchromax lasts a long time. I run Mobil One 75W-140 gear oil in the differential. That lasts nearly forever.
 
I've been running Mobil One in our Honda's from day one of ownership. Used it in numerous previous Honda's as well. Never an oil burning/usage problem with any of them.
When I had Porsche's I used Brad Penn in them.
I'd keep the used BP oil and use it in my lawn mowers and edger.

Some may call me cheap, I think of it as being thrifty and helping save the planet.
 
I've been running Mobil One in our Honda's from day one of ownership. Used it in numerous previous Honda's as well. Never an oil burning/usage problem with any of them.
When I had Porsche's I used Brad Penn in them.
I'd keep the used BP oil and use it in my lawn mowers and edger.

Some may call me cheap, I think of it as being thrifty and helping save the planet.
I generally use Pennzoil Ultra Platium but when it can't be found I'll use Mobil One. I have found that Mobile One gets dirtier (blacker) quite a bit faster than the Pennzoil, and my ancient 2008 PT Looser will loose 1/2 quart of Mobil One where with the Pennzoil the level doesn't change...difference between GTL and PAO base stock maybe?
 
I've read, but not independently verified, GTL production took a beating and that some containers no longer bear the made from or made with natural gas statement.
Latest Motor Oil Geek Guy video.

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I generally use Pennzoil Ultra Platium but when it can't be found I'll use Mobil One. I have found that Mobile One gets dirtier (blacker) quite a bit faster than the Pennzoil, and my ancient 2008 PT Looser will loose 1/2 quart of Mobil One where with the Pennzoil the level doesn't change...difference between GTL and PAO base stock maybe?

My Nissan D21 with the VG30E V6 has been using Mobil 1 since it left the dealership, and I have found no reason to change, except for convenience (a friend works for a shop that uses Liqui Moly, so I sometimes get oil changes there- but usually just plain old Mobil 1). It's never used a drop of oil. It's LITERALLY still full with the same amount of oil, when the next oil change interval comes around. Doesn't go up, doesn't go down- just DOES NOT MOVE on the dipstick. And that's with 5000-6000 mile intervals (most nearer to 5000 miles, but a few have come closer to 6000 when I've done a lot of highway trips in a row).

I had been using dino oil (either Castrol GTX or Valvoline conventional) in my 1994 Mazda Protege for about 20 years- but, my friend who works at the shop with Liqui-Moly (it's a Miata- centric shop, but they're also happy to work on my Protege) suggested changing over to Liqui-Moly, saying that the Mazda B-series engines just seem to thrive on the stuff. On the dino oil- it would consistently use about a quart every 1500 miles or so (and my earlier 1991 Protege had done about exactly the same thing, about 1500 miles per quart). On the LIqui-Moly- it's now 2000+ miles per quart. And it seems to have less issues with intermittent cold-start lifter stickage (momentary lifter ticking for a few seconds when it starts up, then it quiets right out), with the Liqui-Moly, as well. It's very rare to get any momentary lifter stickage on the Liqui-Moly, at all...

Regards,
Gordon.
 
My Nissan D21 with the VG30E V6 has been using Mobil 1 since it left the dealership, and I have found no reason to change, except for convenience (a friend works for a shop that uses Liqui Moly, so I sometimes get oil changes there- but usually just plain old Mobil 1). It's never used a drop of oil. It's LITERALLY still full with the same amount of oil, when the next oil change interval comes around. Doesn't go up, doesn't go down- just DOES NOT MOVE on the dipstick. And that's with 5000-6000 mile intervals (most nearer to 5000 miles, but a few have come closer to 6000 when I've done a lot of highway trips in a row).

I had been using dino oil (either Castrol GTX or Valvoline conventional) in my 1994 Mazda Protege for about 20 years- but, my friend who works at the shop with Liqui-Moly (it's a Miata- centric shop, but they're also happy to work on my Protege) suggested changing over to Liqui-Moly, saying that the Mazda B-series engines just seem to thrive on the stuff. On the dino oil- it would consistently use about a quart every 1500 miles or so (and my earlier 1991 Protege had done about exactly the same thing, about 1500 miles per quart). On the LIqui-Moly- it's now 2000+ miles per quart. And it seems to have less issues with intermittent cold-start lifter stickage (momentary lifter ticking for a few seconds when it starts up, then it quiets right out), with the Liqui-Moly, as well. It's very rare to get any momentary lifter stickage on the Liqui-Moly, at all...

Regards,
Gordon.
Liqui-moly is full of Molybdenum Sulfide- it used to be a pretty popular oil in Europe and also sold as an additive. I used it in my wife's Ford Sierra (Merkur XR4Ti in America) that had flat tappet buckets that clattered with any other oil.
 
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