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“Best” oil for my car threads.

I agree that generally using the OEM is increasingly the best option modern cars. The engine management systems are getting more and more complex and precise, and there can be subtle differences between aftermarket filters that "fit" a car versus the OEM filter speced for the car that the engine was designed around. Especially for the (rare) cases where there is an upside down filter with no antidrain built in (the filter needs to prevent draining). It seems like a really stupid design to have the filter upside down working against gravity, but several cars have it.



I didn't know some Subaru engines had this vulnerability. I knew some cars have upside down, but built anti-drain into the oil system itself rather than relying on the oil filter to do it. I did some AI on that Subaru engine and it doesn't sound like there is an oil filter for it that has an internal standpipe (which is safer than a valve for leakdown when the car is parked for long periods of time). AI did point to this contraption to add anti-drain to the system -- I don't know anything about it but at a glance it doesn't seem like a bad idea (A Must-Have Oil Upgrade for Subaru FA & FB Engine Longevity).
It's not flow it's compatibility with complex oiling on a highly stressed engine. It's a high strung 122 inches making 268 HP at the crankshaft. Variable valve timing controlled by oil pressure. Near 300 pound feet of torque. Horizontal orientation.

It's not a poor design simply intolerant of abuse and neglect. Start it up and stomp it cold. Top gear (even 5th is no good) passing w/o downshifting just flat foot it. Not idling for a minute or two before shutting it down. Sensitivity to poor fuel. Messing with the tune not knowing. Stretching oil change mileage w/o verifying oil.

Mine has 165K miles on it. Bone stock other than common wear items. I've run it hard cold a few times and seen redline on occasion but generally drive it like I have sense. It doesn't consistently consume oil, only real hot weather towards the end of an OCI. Just got back from driving 6-700 miles for vacation. Got a measured 29.9 MPG and purred like a kitten 80MPH on cruise. Honestly it's a fun ride that can take your breath away on the right road.

P.S. OEM air filters too. Not cheap but they are better. More surface area plus better filtration.

I have a Cobb Accessport sitting next to my desk. Can't decide if I want to install it or not.
 
It's not flow it's compatibility with complex oiling on a highly stressed engine. It's a high strung 122 inches making 268 HP at the crankshaft. Variable valve timing controlled by oil pressure. Near 300 pound feet of torque. Horizontal orientation.

It's not a poor design simply intolerant of abuse and neglect. Start it up and stomp it cold. Top gear (even 5th is no good) passing w/o downshifting just flat foot it. Not idling for a minute or two before shutting it down. Sensitivity to poor fuel. Messing with the tune not knowing. Stretching oil change mileage w/o verifying oil.

Mine has 165K miles on it. Bone stock other than common wear items. I've run it hard cold a few times and seen redline on occasion but generally drive it like I have sense. It doesn't consistently consume oil, only real hot weather towards the end of an OCI. Just got back from driving 6-700 miles for vacation. Got a measured 29.9 MPG and purred like a kitten 80MPH on cruise. Honestly it's a fun ride that can take your breath away on the right road.

P.S. OEM air filters too. Not cheap but they are better. More surface area plus better filtration.

I have a Cobb Accessport sitting next to my desk. Can't decide if I want to install it or not.

I wasn't criticizing Subaru or that engine -- just the upside down oil filter design in general -- several cars have them Ferrari, some Subaru, Honda, Toyota, some Chrysler. The oil delivery from cold startup should be designed to be failsafe in my opinion, rather than rely on the valve in a $7 oil filter. If there is a choice (sometimes maybe not due to space), it's better to have non upside down filter. Some cars, like BMW, have a valve in the oil system itself to not be reliant on the oil filter valve. The ultimate (and easiest) failsafe is to not fight gravity :) -- that's all I was saying.

That doesn't mean those engines can't be reliable, but they are very prone to operator error, espeicially with somebody buying the wrong aftermarket filter.

Another variation is oil filter bypass spring rates, which can differ between OEM and aftermarket filters, which is why I agree that OEM filters are generally best on more modern cars.

Our Alfa 2.0t engine is along the same lines as the WRX, with 280bph stock, and ours is 320hp with the Squadra tune. To be honest, the Squadra tune was pretty subtle, but 320hp with a relatively tame tune out of an otherwise stock 2.0l is pretty good. You can dial a lot of power out the WRX from what I've heard, so seems like you should put the Cobb to use. I'd probably dial in less power given the high mileage, but there's apparently a lot to gain if you play with it.

The table below shows the spring rate gap between Subaru (this one I think is for BRZ)


The Massive Spring Rate Gap

Screenshot 2026-08-17 at 4.52.26 PM.png
 
Some cars, like BMW, have a valve in the oil system itself to not be reliant on the oil filter valve. The ultimate (and easiest) failsafe is to not fight gravity :)
A little BMW history on that oil pressure, steel ball, check valve. Early BMW 2002s (with the 121 head) had that valve in an aluminum housing (that held the oil filter). The dang steel ball would wear a groove into the aluminum, so it would get stuck and not release high pressure during early-morning startups.

The oil filter would spin off about 5 minutes after you started the engine and dump all the oil onto the street.

It wasn't until the early E12 triple-hemispherical heads that BMW added a steel sleeve in the casting for the steel ball to ride in.

So all vintage BMW gearheads should upgrade their oil filter housing to the newer types. After that, no problems!

:thumbsup:
 
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I wasn't criticizing Subaru or that engine -- just the upside down oil filter design in general -- several cars have them Ferrari, some Subaru, Honda, Toyota, some Chrysler. The oil delivery from cold startup should be designed to be failsafe in my opinion, rather than rely on the valve in a $7 oil filter. If there is a choice (sometimes maybe not due to space), it's better to have non upside down filter. Some cars, like BMW, have a valve in the oil system itself to not be reliant on the oil filter valve. The ultimate (and easiest) failsafe is to not fight gravity :) -- that's all I was saying.

That doesn't mean those engines can't be reliable, but they are very prone to operator error, espeicially with somebody buying the wrong aftermarket filter.

Another variation is oil filter bypass spring rates, which can differ between OEM and aftermarket filters, which is why I agree that OEM filters are generally best on more modern cars.

Our Alfa 2.0t engine is along the same lines as the WRX, with 280bph stock, and ours is 320hp with the Squadra tune. To be honest, the Squadra tune was pretty subtle, but 320hp with a relatively tame tune out of an otherwise stock 2.0l is pretty good. You can dial a lot of power out the WRX from what I've heard, so seems like you should put the Cobb to use. I'd probably dial in less power given the high mileage, but there's apparently a lot to gain if you play with it.

The table below shows the spring rate gap between Subaru (this one I think is for BRZ)


The Massive Spring Rate Gap

View attachment 3820315
I didn't think you were criticizing at all. Guess I just felt like typing. I like my WRX.
Off the shelf tunes are big fat midrange gains with modest peak. Just the way I like it. The think I like about the stock tune is the throttle response. It's very motorcycle like. Most hate it because it's very progressive, i.e. a little movement gives you a lot of opening. Took sime getting used to but gives great drive out of low speed corners. I live in the mountains. Stick it in 3rd and use the loud pedal.

\​
 
I have used Maxima Break-In oil on my dirt bike rebuilds. Honestly, I have no idea if it helps extend the engine’s life. It’s just an old tradition that I haven’t questioned.

For car engines, I used 10W-30 mineral-based oil for break-in. I changed it at 500 miles and 1000 miles. Then, go to whatever synthetic oil is recommended by the factory. That seems to work, as I haven’t had issues with premature oil burning. Plain old mineral-based Castrol GTX. The key is to always change the oil filter with the break-in oil changes.

:)
I used Lucas 30wt Break in oil when I broke in my Willys 134L in my CJ-2A The cam break in was roughly 20 min varying between 1500 and 2000 rpm with the occasional bump to 2500rpm. I then ran it for about 200 miles then dumped it to get rid of all the Assembly lube and STP that was in the engine. I refilled with Break in oil and ran another 500 miles. Switching it out to Lucas 10w-30 Hot Rod and Classic Oil to run on. It has the 1200ppm of zinc that is recommended for a flat tappet engine like mine. I have a little over 15K on the jeep and all seams very well.

If I could just get the dan Overdrive to not pop out of direct I would be ecstatic. Its truely a PITA holding a shift lever in position while trying to steer one handed on off road trails. Hopefully a visit to the guys who designed and sold the OD unit to me will finally solve this come Monday.
 
If I could just get the dan Overdrive to not pop out of direct I would be ecstatic. Its truely a PITA holding a shift lever in position while trying to steer one handed on off road trails. Hopefully a visit to the guys who designed and sold the OD unit to me will finally solve this come Monday.
A friend had an Acura that kept popping out of 5th. Forums had various suggestions for fluid brands. None really worked. He had to take the transmission out and have some work done to the guts. Then, all was good.

Good luck with your fix!

:thumbsup:
 
Only one I had that would jump out of gear was from a bad synchro. Never fixed it, I just adapted my driving to make it happen less and jammed it back into gear if needed. it would hold fine so long as I was on the gas. It would jump out if I let off and then got back on it too hard. Ease in and it wasn't a problem. Something about the sudden load reversal made it unhappy.

The 3rd gear synchro was worn out too, unless I rev matched it, a grind on the 2-3 upshift was pretty much guaranteed.
 
Only one I had that would jump out of gear was from a bad synchro. Never fixed it, I just adapted my driving to make it happen less and jammed it back into gear if needed. it would hold fine so long as I was on the gas. It would jump out if I let off and then got back on it too hard. Ease in and it wasn't a problem. Something about the sudden load reversal made it unhappy.

The 3rd gear synchro was worn out too, unless I rev matched it, a grind on the 2-3 upshift was pretty much guaranteed.
Rev matching with or without a problem becomes second nature shifting gears, seamless, keeps one directly connected to the machine.
 
I often shift sans clutch. Habit from motocross as a kid.
Yeah! The only time I used the clutch while riding dirt bikes was at the start and through corners to keep the RPM in range. It's really the best way to line up the berm.

And on long uphills, so you don't go down to a lower gear too soon, and lose control.
 
Rev matching with or without a problem becomes second nature shifting gears, seamless, keeps one directly connected to the machine.
yeah it got to be just a thing to do. I drove it for several days with a broken clutch cable by doing that. Broke on a Teusday morning, I didn't get paid until Friday. Upshifts were easy, downshifts were a little more of a challenge but entirely possible. Stops meant shut the engine off, put it in first, hit the key to go. Those were really the only annoying thing.

sometimes driving crappy things makes you a better driver by forcing you to adapt.
 
yeah it got to be just a thing to do. I drove it for several days with a broken clutch cable by doing that. Broke on a Teusday morning, I didn't get paid until Friday. Upshifts were easy, downshifts were a little more of a challenge but entirely possible. Stops meant shut the engine off, put it in first, hit the key to go. Those were really the only annoying thing.

sometimes driving crappy things makes you a better driver by forcing you to adapt.
With newer cars that have manual transmissions, the computer rev matches the shifts automatically.
 
With newer cars that have manual transmissions, the computer rev matches the shifts automatically.
That is true, one more way to separate the vehicle from the driver. :) Seriously though, rev matching between shifts is one of the pleasures driving a manual, stick shift. If the ECM rev matches might as well have an automatic, they, most of them, manage the engine and transmission seamlessly, up or down shifting depending on demand, load. A stick 'should' put that up to the driver, it is fun to manage the drive train with a stick shift, becomes second nature, done right the clutch will last forever.
 
This was a 1973 VW Super Beetle, the most technically advanced thing in it was the digital tuner in the aftermarket radio.
I, too, learned clutchless shifting on my old rebuilt 1967 VW Bug. Stone stock, it was a great little car. Girls loved that car.

Sadly, it was stolen from the college parking lot.
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