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1060 Output coupling caps

Keith Baran

Keith Baran

Member
Starting a 1060 revival, more like a resurrection ( it's nasty) LOL . Making a parts list for Mouser. Everything was fine until I got to the output coupling caps, the stock caps are Elna 3000uf 55v. I search Elna,Nichicon, Panasonic and no 3000 uf caps, only 2700 and 3300 uf. Is it OK to use 3300 uf caps, or 2700 ? And even if it is OK do you think it will change the sound very much? Or better yet anyone know where I can pick up 3000uf 55v ( or better voltage) I would much rather stick what is original because of my lack of knowledge/theory.
Thanks for any/all input
Keith
 
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Keith Baran said:
Starting a 1060 revival, more like a resurrection ( it's nasty) LOL . Making a parts list for Mouser. Everything was fine until I got to the output coupling caps, the stock caps are Elna 3000uf 55v. I search Elna,Nichicon, Panasonic and no 3000 uf caps, only 2700 and 3300 uf. Is it OK to use 3300 uf caps, or 2700 ? And even if it is OK do you think it will change the sound very much? Or better yet anyone know where I can pick up 3000uf 55v ( or better voltage) I would much rather stick what is original because of my lack of knowledge/theory.
Thanks for any/all input
Keith
Click to expand...
I like to stick with original values for output caps. Filter caps I usually up in value a bit. If you can't get the original value then go with the 3300. Never go down in capacitance or voltage.
 
If you plan on using one pair of 4 Ohm or two pairs of 8 Ohm speakers, you may want to bump the capacitance of the output coupling capacitors up to 4700µF for better bass response.
Be sure to keep the diameter the same as the old ones so that you can use the same clamps.

My 2 cents.

Tom
 
Question, the output coupling caps and the Power supply cap have large lug type terminals on them the ones from Mouser, " snap in" have these little wimpy terminals. I used them on the 1030 I just finished but it was a pain soldering all the wires on that little terminal. Does Nichicon or other manufacture make audio grade caps with larger terminals?20171026_091858.jpg 20171026_092223.jpg
 
Capacitors with lug terminals are more rare these days (especially for smaller capacitors) but you can install ring terminals to snap-in capacitors to mimic the function of a lug terminal:
Chassis Caps3.jpg
 
Hey Leestereo, Great Idea!!
Now a question I have posed before but never got a real clear answer. Does any one know of a replacement part for the two Silicon Varistor's H005 & H006 on the P700 used for I think, temp comp. The 1030 I just finished made it without breaking them, but the 1060 I just started is old and crusty, they might break if I look at them too hard. So I was hoping for a direct replacement or a work around before I remove that board.
Thanks
Keith
 
Just be really careful with the STV-3s. The leads are not braided and are fragile. If you do break one, you can file away some of the epoxy to expose enough lead for a solder joint. Electronically, I don't think I've ever seen one fail. They are essentially made of unobtainium.
 
Are those soldered or crimped? I ask because I'm really not a fan of crimp connectors. They are failure prone, and don't conduct current well.
 
tarior said:
Are those soldered or crimped? I ask because I'm really not a fan of crimp connectors. They are failure prone, and don't conduct current well.
Click to expand...
Indeed, using improper wire size for the lug , bad wire stripping, bad lugs, bad or inappropriate crimping tool, crimping tool aligned for improper lug type/wire diameter if required, poor workmanship.
Or all of the above, which definately is not uncommon.

Better not travel by airplane if believing crimping does not work.
 
gslikker said:
Indeed, using improper wire size for the lug , bad wire stripping, bad lugs, bad or inappropriate crimping tool, crimping tool aligned for improper lug type/wire diameter if required, poor workmanship.
Or all of the above, which definately is not uncommon.

Better not travel by airplane if believing crimping does not work.
Click to expand...
i knew there was a reason i dont like flying . :D
do they really crimp in aeroplanes ?
yes done perfectly they can last . have done a few underground mains cables and potted them properly afterwards .no problems yet . crimpers were well expensive .
 
no affiliation, I googled some pictures which include some lugs. Almost all wiring connections in aircraft are crimped, as it is superior to soldering, many times.
http://www.fss.aero/surplus/

what about this one :D
ssj-fa-26.jpg


Although, there seem some bad practices here too....probably not finished yet
 
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gslikker said:
Indeed, using improper wire size for the lug , bad wire stripping, bad lugs, bad or inappropriate crimping tool, crimping tool aligned for improper lug type/wire diameter if required, poor workmanship.
Or all of the above, which definately is not uncommon.

Better not travel by airplane if believing crimping does not work.
Click to expand...
I have a hard time believing that the FAA would allow crimp connectors to be used in critical systems on aircraft. And FWIW, I don't fly commercial.
 
:music:I worked for years in a plant that built battery chargers for nuclear power plants. All wires were crimped, but as was already stated good lugs, great "Calibrated"crimpers, perfect wire size matching is a must. When done correctly just as strong as the wire itself. I think we used "Panduit" lugs.Crimpers were calibrated with traceability back to " The National Bureau of Standards and Technologies"
Hey, thanks to everyone for their input here. Tom thanks for that link.
Tarior great idea
 
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tarior said:
Just be really careful with the STV-3s. The leads are not braided and are fragile. If you do break one, you can file away some of the epoxy to expose enough lead for a solder joint. Electronically, I don't think I've ever seen one fail. They are essentially made of unobtainium.
Click to expand...
I had one failed in a Luxman SQ507X. In the output amp, it has a second STV also, which feeds the input transistors (I might make a topic since I have no idea why use such diode there).
Now, as one did fail in the bias circuit I wanted to swap the good one into the bias circuit,it measured okay before taking out. I desoldered it and after that it measured failed open, although I was taking care of not destroying it.
So it went open although the leads were still intact.

As you say, they are very fragile and every time you read something about those a year has gone again, we get older, so do the diodes as well ;).
 
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