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1060 - Purchased, now restoration

paultlaw said:
Thank you, roger that. Should i leave the "tasty greens" in too then?
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I found these Flat sounding and "to me" that's were I would go with a Nice sounding Film. Mundorf EVO Aluminum + Oil are in my Marantz (2)1060, (2) 2230, 4060.
If $$ is a factor...maybe try the Panasonic and compare to the "Greenies".
 
I was lazy on mine.. I used Panasonic and Rubycons for main filter caps and some rim tape to build up the base to fit into the clamps. But the boards got gold Nichicons. I replaced 2SC945s with KSC1845s. I plan to go back soon and replace the coupling caps with some NOS russian paper/oil caps just to have some fun. I've read folks have had some reasonable success with this swap and were pleasently surprised with the sound. I cleaned the pots with DeOxit and then gave a spray of contact lube. I kept the old trimmers on the main amp but did douse them with deoxit and work them back and forth. They are still touchy as hell so I might replace them later on. But for now they are on spec.
 
Any thoughts on how to remove the boards on these to work on?
I removed P800 last night,I unwrapped wires from their posts, seems like there must be a better way. Also pulled one of the posts out of the board, thought that was better. Haven't recapped the board yet, but I'll upload a picture of it when complete. Hard to find time with work and life at the minute.
 
paultlaw said:
Any thoughts on how to remove the boards on these to work on?
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I have done 3 of these and did not completely remove any boards. The back of the unit can be unscrewed and "hinged" on the outer screw holes giving very good access to the power amp boards and most of the other boards can be moved to become accessible. Be very careful of the bias diodes attached to the heat sink, these are very fragile and hard to source the originals.
1060_basket_2.jpg
1060_basket.jpg

This one was totally dead shorted and rusted bad, but except for the dirty controls, which don't seem to want to clean, it is my outdoor speakers daily driver. The only board you really have to physically remove is the tone board which has the actual tone controls. Good luck.... Rich
 
Power board done, used nichicon upw for this board and followed the uprating and capacitance and voltage that fellow akers have done. New diodes UF4005 and a nice ksc2383yta.
Was harder than I thought to be honest.
I'm slow as hell, but powered up on dbt, all looks good.
 
Where to next? Big power caps? Or power amp board, bear in mind I have a channel dropping in and out, afraid to put this through its paces until issue resolved. Thanks for all the help and advice, please keep it coming
 
If a unit is working properly, I usually rebuild the power supply followed by the filter caps, then main amps. Others do the power amps before filter caps. But either way, I would be trying to solve the dropping channel before anything else. General rule of thumb, even if you are recapping, fix the problem first. Don't count on the shotgun method to fix it. If you introduce a second problem, you will have ten times the trouble sorting things out. Get it working properly and then proceed with the recap/rebuild. That PS pic looks great BTW. Nice job! :thumbsup:
 
paultlaw said:
I removed P800 last night,I unwrapped wires from their posts, seems like there must be a better way. Also pulled one of the posts out of the board, thought that was better.
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I have the correct unwrap/wrap tool for the Marantz. It's not cheap at 30 bucks but works very well. The issue is the wire and how wirewrap works. The wire is old and brittle. Coupled with that WW when done correctly, the post sides cut into the wire and that weakens it when you unwrap it. It's very difficult to get the wire re-wrapped. I find I trim off most of it and then trim down the insulation for a new short wrap. I put a dab of solder on the new short wrap and life is good. Some pull the post but you are gambling a bit with the old wire not fracturing. I've done that too and it does work. I would say it's a judgement call on which to use. I spent years working with WW in the DOD so I don't mind working with it. If you don't have experience, then pulling the post is a good option. And the third is just to pull the board and get a good angle without undoing anything. The 1030 and 1060 works well with that. Even my 2226B worked that way with some patience and removing some of the metal frame.
 
None of the connections on my unit look like a classic wire wrap, they all seem to be a haphazard wrap and a whole bunch of solder. Wiring is multi strand too, not single core.

Slow going with this, last night I changed out the lamp for a nice Led. I'm thinking of painting the sub chassis and transformer case, wondering though if that's too much to handle.
 
Pdm4606 - I will update the thread with exactly that when the time comes. If I had known earlier would have done it before I pulled this board
 
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paultlaw said:
None of the connections on my unit look like a classic wire wrap, they all seem to be a haphazard wrap and a whole bunch of solder. Wiring is multi strand too, not single core.
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Personally speaking, I'd be tempted to redo the wiring the correct way with the solid core and at least wrapped around the posts. You cannot wirewrap once solder has been on the posts and have it work well. Give how screwed up these are, it does give you the chance to use modern wirewrap pins and tools :) If you want to solder, then just get some standoff pins and do a few loops and call it done. Here is a fun article on the fine art of wirewrap - http://www.nutsvolts.com/magazine/article/wire_wrap_is_alive_and_well
 
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