• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

120v to 110v step down converter?

Lavane

Lunatic Member
I've been looking at some step-down converters, and looking for a decent lower cost 120v to 110v step down converter. I'm not coming up with much really. Has anyone had any experience with them? SMP supplies included.
 
Register to hide this ad
I use a Variac connected to power strips with a digital volt meter. One strip is for the solid state system and one for the tube system.
 
I have a variac, but I don't want to tie it up connected to one price of equipment.
I use it when testing and building amps.
I have a couple preamps that have 110v secondaries in the power transformers.
I want something I can just leave connected to them.
 
What exactly do you have that will only run at 110 volts? While US power is 120V nominal, traditionally you could expect to see anything between 110 and 125V, and pretty much everything will work fine in that range.
The problem is heater voltage. Its too high with power transformers with 110v primaries.
 
Since


Since heaters are a constant load, perhaps inserting a resistor in the circuit would help.
I've done that before with several old poin to point built console amps, etc., but these are built on printed circuit boards that are double sided with some of the traces buried.
I could take the preamps apart I guess. I would rather just be able plug them into something. The bucking transformer should do the trick. I have everytning I think except for a chassis box to put it in.
 
In case anyone was wondering this is the Bucking Transformer I built.
View attachment 2704014
Nice build. I think I'll build one with two outlets on switches. Then I can switch between 7% and 12% on either outlet. Usually when modifying old console tube amps, or using old transformers for amp builds, I just adjust the dropping resistors. But I have bought a few pieces of equipment made in chinafilaments. PCB'S and 110v primaries. One phono preamp I was able to easily replace the resistors for the tube heaters to lower the voltage back down to 6.3v. But a couple others it's just a pain to remove the PCB's and find the traces buried in the boards.
The slightly raised B+ usually isn't a big deal, but raised heater voltage is hard on the filiments.
 
You could get 7 high amperage bridge rectifiers and tie them together between the 120 volts and your intended 110 volts. Each rectifier (composed of 4 diodes) will drop the voltage ~1.4 volts. When you "tie them together" current can flow both ways, but you still get the voltage drop. You can easily get rectifiers rated to 25 amps cheap.
 
that doesn't make for an especially clean sine wave though. There will be about a half volt "gap" either side of the zero crossing where the voltage is below where the diode switches on. The switching I would expect to introduce some harmonics to the wave, not sure if it would be audible or not.
 
that doesn't make for an especially clean sine wave though. There will be about a half volt "gap" either side of the zero crossing where the voltage is below where the diode switches on. The switching I would expect to introduce some harmonics to the wave, not sure if it would be audible or not.

I do it to drop the voltage for my train motors with no ill effects. It may be worth a try.
 
motors aren't audio gear though. AC motors don't love dirty power either, if you've ever heard the horrible racket that a ceiling fan connected to a dimmer makes, much of that is from the nasty switching from the triac. Thats at a much higher voltage though so probably more severe. Aren't train motors a universal series wound setup too? That type runs on AC or DC, so probably fairly un-fussy about what feeds it.
 
motors aren't audio gear though. AC motors don't love dirty power either, if you've ever heard the horrible racket that a ceiling fan connected to a dimmer makes, much of that is from the nasty switching from the triac. Thats at a much higher voltage though so probably more severe. Aren't train motors a universal series wound setup too? That type runs on AC or DC, so probably fairly un-fussy about what feeds it.

They run on dc.
 
if its DC then it really won't care. Any wonkiness to the waveform goes away once you run it through a rectifier and a filter cap.
 
Back
Top Bottom