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1964 Fisher Futura Console Restore

Kipp Jones

Kipp Jones

New Member
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Hello All,
I am new to this forum and have a couple of questions regarding my Fisher Futura console I received as a gift for Christmas. It appears that a couple of the fuses are bad and need to be replaced. I cannot find the old fuses that would fit this so it looks like I might have to replace the fuse holder with a newer type. Does anyone know if the fuses that have the tabs on them a still available or do I, indeed, need to replace the fuse holders. Also, when I switch the fuses over to the right side I only get sound out of the tweeter. Would this mean that the capacitor on the crossover is bad and needs to be replaced. I would really appreciate any insight.

Kipp
 
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If you still have the caps for the fuse holders, good. All you need is the FUSES. Take a fuse from the left side and go down to Home Depot and the Electrical Dept. What you want is "BUSS" brand AGC 2A "Slo-Blo" or as they call them Time Delay. Pull your fuse out and match the length. If you have to replace the holders, replace all 4 so they all use the same style fuse.

Take a LIVE 9V battery and touch the speaker contacts with the battery contacts. You should, if the speaker is servicable, hear it clunk or thump. Do the same with the Midrange. If the speakers are ok, replace the caps (all of them). As the Futura for 64 has no found service manual yet, and it uses the same Amp - Tuner/pre that the Ambassador does (very common for Fisher to use the same chassis' for more than one model in a model year), use the Ambassador manual for the rehab. The speakers and crossovers are slightly different however. http://www.fisherconsoles.com/service manuals/fisher ambassador VI a69wa sm.pdf
 
I only see one capacitor on the cross over in the above picture. I also see a resistor. Is that correct? As for the the fuse caps, it does not look like this amp ever had fuse caps. The fuse itself had little tabs on it that held the fuse in place. Looks like I will be replacing the fuse holders with new ones. Can I just attach some wires to the 9v battery so it will reach the speaker? Does it matter which side the positive wire is on? Thanks!
 
Yes wires. No to orientation. 2 caps, 2 resistors, 1 inductor (coil)

Caps circled in RED, resistor in Grn. Just check resistors (lift one leg) 1st. If more than 5% out of spec, replace. The Cement resistor should be ok.

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Dayton 200V speaker Electrolytics are good enough. www.parts-express.com
 
Great news! I tested the speakers and they all work. Thank you! Unfortunately, I cannot tell what size the black cap is. The ambassador has 3 caps so i cannot use the schematics to find out. Would it be easier to replace the whole crossover on bold sides? If so, what should i look for in the crossover?
 
Take and pry the crossover off the side panel. Then flip it over. It's held on with a couple of staples, so a flat blade screwdriver should do it. That black cap is probably a 4 to a 5 uf (mfd) / 100V Might be as high as an 8mfd. Brand should be something like Calken or Calkin or similar. You can rotate the housing on these and it won't hurt them. Replace the caps, then using wood screws (#6 x 3/4") fasten it back to the side panel.
 
no such luck as it looks like the uf part is rubbed off (see photo) what do you suggest? Do you not recommend a whole new crossover?
 

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Check the other crossover for the other speaker 1st. New crossover is gonna make it sound worse. These crossovers are custom made for the enclosure. Let me do some hunting on the forum. Someone else is bound to have a 64 Futura.
 
DAMN!

OK. I PM'ed JONBOY55 who had/has a 64 in Provincial. I asked him, if he's still got it, if he wold look at his and post up the values.

I blew up the pic, and played with the Gamma, but it's too far gone even for discoloration fading around the paint of the lettering.
 
If you have a Digital Multimeter with a Capacitance setting, you can measure it. Make sure you disconnect one side so it's out of circuit 1st. If you can then post up the readings.
 
That is what it looked like to me as well but i didn't want to sway your thoughts. I will order these and I already have the fuse holders in transit. Looks like i get to work on my soldering skills. Thanks for all your help! I will let you know the outcome.
 
Hello Larry! Good news and bad. I replaced the fuse holders while waiting for the caps. When I put it back together it played as it did before. Which was great! i received the new caps and replaced them but nothing has changed so i guess that wasn't the issue to begin with, I did hook up a different receiver to the speakers and it appears that the woofer is no good. I am also blowing fuses on that side. Could the bad woofer cause fuses to blow? can I replace just the woofer? Any suggestions
 
Blowing fuses on the one side is indicative of problems in the AMP as the fuses are for the amplifier section. Possible causes are a bad transistor (Very expensive for output transistors ie: >$30.00 ea) bad resistor or a bad cap in the circuit somewhere. The woofer voice coil can either be shorted or open, if shorted can cause output transistors to blow and or the fuses to go open.

The speaker can probably be rebuilt. google speaker rebuilding. As for the amp.... if you haven't rebuilt it, it probably needs one.
 
I do not know the 1st thing about rebuilding an amp. Where would i go for that? What are your suggestions at this point?
 
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