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1964 Fisher Futura Console Restore

Not too many if any shops work on these. Couple of items
1.) update your profile with location (metropolitan area is fine).
2.) There may be (>10% chance) someone in your area (another AK'er) who knows how to work on them. Not a really abundant amp as it was a transistion unit.
3.) Start to learn how to work on it yourself. Go over to the DIY, General Audio, and Solid state Forums and read up on the sticky's. It's not really a hard unit to work on, but for a 1st timer, it can be daunting.

Unfortunately I don't work on outside stuff anymore (no time with moving houses around and consolidating them still.) But we can help you with it. The 690A amp for 1964 is essentially the same as a 59A amp from 1965. Start by taking a boatload of BEFORE PICTURES (overall, and 4 corners that overlap), TOP and BOTTOM. This gives you a reference point in case you mess up (and more than likely you will at some point). We've all been there done that.

DON'T POWER IT UP AGAIN. Every time you do and blow a fuse, you put undue strain on the circuits while they are energized and cause further damage.
 
Is it blowing the fuses as soon as you turn on the power switch? If so, at least one if not more blown output transistors. Do you have a DMM (Digital Volt Meter), and do you know how to use it???

I know One of the moderators(Fisherdude) that has Fisher's is in your neck of the woods, but off the top of my head, I can't remember whether he works on gear or not. If he doesn't he may have a network in the area he may help you with.
 
This is what I have. Thanks again for all your help!
 

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Study this link........ https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/bipolar-junction-transistor-testing-basics.43186/ Pay particular attention to the 1st 12-15 technical posts with regard to testing transistors. Especially MarktheFixers post #11.

You'll do this POWER OFF, CORD UNPLUGGED and BAGGED (This is for your safety).
1.) Disconnect, (mark each cable and it's associated plug with Masking tape and an identical MARK!) the amplifier (690A from the console.
2.) Using a screwdriver, remove the perforated covers on the top of the AMP.
3.) You'll see 2 rows of 4 transistors. Mark them from top to bottom 1L-2L-3L-4L and 1R-2R-3R-4R. Take PICTURES for reference (Take pictures of Each Step in any case).

4.) Remove a transistor, test as per the link, noting the results as per the link, and reinstall it in the AMP. Rinse and repeat for all of the transistors. POST RESULTS.

NOTE: Set your meter to the DIODE mode and test.

5.) You will have 6 readings per transistor. If the meter reads O/L post that. O/L usually means out of limits (or an open circuit). Write down all readings as noted on meter.

Once we have the readings, we can tell you if the transistors are good or not.
 
Well, sounds like i have some work to do. 2 silly questions real quick. 1) what does "Bagged" mean? 2) off hand , do you know whether these are PNP or NPN transistors?
 
Put the End of the cord in a baggie and tie wrap it. (extra protection for you). PNP. And they are Germanium transistors, which is why they are so expensive.
 
ok, thanks! You stated the amp is the same as the A59. Did you means A69 for which you provided the service manual? Same transistors?
 
Use the manual for the 1964 AMBASSADOR. IT'S SAME AS '64 FUTURA Except for speakers.
 
When you reinstall the good transistors, it would be a good idea to replace the insulating washers and add new thermal compound.

Looks like all the R transistors have a collector problem.
 
Couple of problems with that (changing to Silicon). The turn on voltage for Silicon is 1.6V and Germanium is 1.2V IIRC. Both sets would have to be re-biased in circuit and these Early FISHER's are a GOLD PLATED, GRADE A, S.O.B. to bias as you need 2 hands on the tweekers because of the interaction of the voltages and currents. One goes up the other goes down and you have to regulate both at the same time to have some slight hope of equilibrium.

PRICE:
Silicon (TO-3 or the new standard nomenclature TO-204) are relatively cheap btwn $3. and $10. each.
Germanium TO-3 are substantially higher ($20-$50 ea) depending on availability, what it's for, and whose selling. Plus 99.9999999&4/10% of them are OLD STOCK from the 60's. Age can deteriorate components.

NTE's tend to about $40 each. ONLY AS LAST RESORT!!!!! They are a distributor and mark their brand on the cheapest stuff they can get away with. So you're looking at $80-$200 just for 4 transistors, and we haven't even looked at the rest of the unit. Cause and effect. If an output is blown, what caused it (usually something down stream, but in this case possibly a shorted speaker).

My advice to you at this point is, and #1 is not done lightly:
1.) Cut your losses and sell for parts
2.) Find another 1964 or 65 Futura or Ambassador and enjoy it.
3.) Find another 690A amp that is working and get it, fix the spkr and enjoy it. You can install a 1965 59A but the connectors are slightly different and you'd have to re-wire the connectors.
 
This was a gift from my wife for Christmas so i don't think i will be getting rid of it. I do appreciate your honesty though. As a last resort i would probably try to gut it and replace with newer equipment. This is definitely a show piece. We love MCM furniture and when i have completed the refinish, I will look awesome! It was just a bonus as she remembered the stories that i told her about having a console like this when i was young and really enjoyed it. I had to get new parts to make the turntable work again and would really like to see it run right again. I did find some old stock on Ebay that is priced reasonably so i might try that. Remember, I did determine that the woofer was bad on the side that had the bad transistors and that was blowing the fuses. Could that be the issue? If so, I would like to replace the woofers not have them repaired (too costly). Do you know if they are 4 or 8 ohm?
 
If I had 10% of the "sentimental" money I wasted on cars an that RCA 6HF1 I had...

Take it from someone who's been there and done that--cut your losses now... when I hit my mid-40s, I said life is WAY too short and lost causes aren't worth the effort...
 
1 last option. Find a 59A amp from a working '65 Futura or Ambassador. I just went thru the schematics, and parts list. The amps are literally identical down to the pin outs for the connectors. So it should be plug and play.
 
there is a 59A on Ebay for 240.00. I can get old new stock for around 40.00. for 4. It does not seem that you have very high confidence that the woofer was what caused the issue. I that what you are saying. Would it hurt to try before shelling out that kind of cash? i guess it all depends on if you think the new transistors and woofer would fix the issue.
 
The circuit can be converted to silicon with considerable work, and experimentation. It would be simpler and better to just replace the power amp circuits with new circuits using current design techniques and parts.
 
Sounds good to me. Can you tell me if the woofers are 4 or eight. When I measured the resistance, it showed 5.8. would that make it 8 ohms?
 
What your measureing is DC Resistance. The ohm rating is inductance which will be slightly higher. The 64 Ambassador manual states 8ohm for the woofer as does most every other manual for that model (along with the Futura). What size is the woofer? measure across the edge of the cone itself, not the frame.
 
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