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2000a

Morgan D

Super Member
I just hooked this up and it amazing that it is rated at 30w and it seems to push my Tekton double impacts just as easily as my old toshiba sb 420 with a claimed 50w. What has more of the magic , the preamp or the power amp? I am running just the power amp. It loses a channel when I use the preamp. The tech de-oxed the switches but it started acting up again.
 
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The 50wpc amp is only capable of increasing the volume by ~2db over the 30wpc amp. Doubling of power produces only 3db more volume. It's a logarithmic scale, not linear. With highly efficient speakers of 95db or more, the 30wpc amp will make your ears bleed.
 
A good portion of it is due to single rail, cap coupled design. It's kind of a transistional unit between the full tube (with transformers) and the direct coupled Solid state units a few years later. It'll sound very much tube like in most respects, IMO. I've got the 2000, 2000A, and 2000X. All sound quite similar to my Fisher Tube receivers and separates. My Pioneer SX-434,737,& 939 are bright and analytical sounding comparatively (the Pioneers are direct coupled). All have been rebuilt so comparisons are valid.

A tired unit can sound muddy when pushed, can clip easier (and you'll hear it ) as Solid state doesn't ramp up the clipping(soft clip) like a tube unit will. It clips HARD and fast. If you don't catch it quick, you can blow the amp. So be careful and try to get it overhauled (rebuilt). There are AK members in spokane and seattle areas that can rebuild it, generally better than a shop, and a bit cheaper too.

Switches are easy to treat with DeOxit. If you can handle a screwdriver, you can deoxit all the switches, again. Sometimes 3-4 applications 3-4 weeks apart will finally get the switches reliable. UNPLUG UNIT and sit on the plug(Safety 1st). Take offthe top and bottom covers. Find an opening in the switch housings. Don't try to spray in from the front, it doesn't work well, (you usually end up changing your shirt). Short spray (spritz) only. Let the Deoxit sit for 30 minutes give each another spritz to wet it again and then work the Bejesus out of them. Also do all the rotary switches and pots (spritz, wait 30, spritz and EXERCISE). Switch hands when tired. Work each switch and pot 40-50 times vigorously. Then finish up with Faderlube or Shield.
 
I am thinking after hearing this 2000a , I would be wasting money on one of those hood amp clones. This low watt Sansui sounds really good!!

I went through a fair amount of gear before I discovered Sansui Sound. It is something unique and special, and seems to have a uniquely positive effect on the basal ganglia. The 25 watt Sansui AU-555a with @Leestereo renovation is how it started and was everything I didn't know I was looking for until I heard it. Hope you are able to keep exploring Sansui Sound! It's an incredible sonic journey across the Sansui circuit topology evolution.
 
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A good portion of it is due to single rail, cap coupled design. It's kind of a transistional unit between the full tube (with transformers) and the direct coupled Solid state units a few years later. It'll sound very much tube like in most respects, IMO. I've got the 2000, 2000A, and 2000X. All sound quite similar to my Fisher Tube receivers and separates. My Pioneer SX-434,737,& 939 are bright and analytical sounding comparatively (the Pioneers are direct coupled). All have been rebuilt so comparisons are valid.

A tired unit can sound muddy when pushed, can clip easier (and you'll hear it ) as Solid state doesn't ramp up the clipping(soft clip) like a tube unit will. It clips HARD and fast. If you don't catch it quick, you can blow the amp. So be careful and try to get it overhauled (rebuilt). There are AK members in spokane and seattle areas that can rebuild it, generally better than a shop, and a bit cheaper too.

Switches are easy to treat with DeOxit. If you can handle a screwdriver, you can deoxit all the switches, again. Sometimes 3-4 applications 3-4 weeks apart will finally get the switches reliable. UNPLUG UNIT and sit on the plug(Safety 1st). Take offthe top and bottom covers. Find an opening in the switch housings. Don't try to spray in from the front, it doesn't work well, (you usually end up changing your shirt). Short spray (spritz) only. Let the Deoxit sit for 30 minutes give each another spritz to wet it again and then work the Bejesus out of them. Also do all the rotary switches and pots (spritz, wait 30, spritz and EXERCISE). Switch hands when tired. Work each switch and pot 40-50 times vigorously. Then finish up with Faderlube or Shield.
Larry, my 2000a has the wood case so somebody added that later? It was rebuilt but now I know why the preamp doesn't work. He didn't do the rotary switches not nearly enough. I want a remote so I may just keep it with a separate preamp. Are there any preamps that you Sansui guys approve of running with this wonderful little relic? Or is that just not done. I really don't care about the tuner anymore. I was hoping you would respond Larry. Thankyou!!
 
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Wood case was an option on the "A". The "X" usually came with a case as far as I know. Rotary switches are easy to clean. Spritz with DeOxit, work the hell out of them, and hit with a little faderlube or Shield.

As for preamps, I have no preferance as I use mine as straight receivers. Pick what YOU think sounds good (even a cheapy Ratshack preamp , or any of the high end stuff).
 
I don't know if rat shack has that sort of thing anymore. I do have the cheapest OSD crap I could find. Larry ,I think I will buy the DeOxit and give it a shot. I already had the cover off before. I really liked the phono pre with this one. I can run it with my Advents to get that old vintage sound. Thanks Larry !!
 
Should I have any concerns about running 4 ohm speakers? Just one pair with the 2000a ?
If it is serviced and you know it's healthy unit you won't have any issues with 4 ohm load. Just don't push it past 10 o'clock, these units are not made for cranking although they can pack a punch.
 
Yep welcome to the Sansui sound it’s that tube like Capp coupled sound on these amps and receivers of the late 60’s and early 70’s. Glad to hear you’re enjoying it.

That sound is seductive, warm. but plenty detailed. Just so musical and easy to listen to for hours at a time. Enjoy the classic Sansui sound. I love that sound.
 
I'm going to try using the phono pre in the 2000a with either my SUT + denon dl 103 or with my hagerman piccolo. I always liked it with the MM carts. What speakers do you folks use with the 2000a ?
 
I use KLH 17(8ohm), KLH 20(4ohm), Sansui SP-200's, 2000's or 2500's, NLA's, Heresy's, KG 2.5's, H.H. Scott S10 or S-15. The Sansui's vary from 94 to 97db @ 1M/1W, while everything else is down under 91db. They ALL sound equally good to me on the 2000, 2000A, or 2000X. But then I have profound hearing loss above 11kHz both ears from 40+ years of Emergency vehicle driving, all before mandated hearing protection.
 
I played a 12k sine wave and I can't hear much above that. How much audible music is above that anyway ? I will hook up the NLA's I have just for fun.
 
Not a whole lot. Mainly your high's up to about 15K (phono is generally regarded as limited to 15K). FM Stereo extends to 20K but mainly that is for the 19kHz Multiplexer. The NLA's will be a good fit for the 2000A. If you find High's diminished set the switch on the back to increase. It'll boost them a little.
 
It is surprising the quality sound one can get without spending a lot of money....2000A connected to the wonderful Sony ss cpx22 speakers.
 
Not a whole lot. Mainly your high's up to about 15K (phono is generally regarded as limited to 15K). FM Stereo extends to 20K but mainly that is for the 19kHz Multiplexer. The NLA's will be a good fit for the 2000A. If you find High's diminished set the switch on the back to increase. It'll boost them a little.
I think it is on AK somewhere where they discussed the switches on the NLA with the designer.
 
I got the 2000a plugged back into it's preamp again and the main thing I noticed is a lot less noise. Even when using a tube phono pre run through AUX. I think the tech did a good job replacing parts but didn't bathe it with DeOxit nearly enough. I guess with the rotary switch I just spray around the shaft in the back? I really didn't see any holes to access.
 
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