2220B restoration thread
- Thread starter Jailtime
- Start date
Jailtime
Standin' on a corner
This project officially begins this upcoming weekend, just ordered my solder and a nice new Weller WES51 station. A little box of new Panasonic FC caps is waiting... So if you thought this thread and the 2220B project were dead, there's hope. I'll post lots of pics along the way, so maybe this will be of use to future recappers. :thmbsp:
Antisocial
Marantz idiot..
Update: Here's the cap list I compiled by looking at the service manual and then comparing with the real parts in the 2220B as best I could. Got a little help from Catrafter, so it should be pretty good. Use at your own risk.Those Marantz manuals are a mess, this should get you really close on your cap order. But always verify the part you're replacing with the new one. :yes:
2220b here too..
Great now i can recap mine too..
Then go on with all the bulbs.. (every single bulb is broken..
)
Jailtime
Standin' on a corner
I lied...but I'm really starting this weekend. The soldering station was a bit late in arriving to start last weekend. Probably start with the easy power supply caps, I'll post plenty of pics of my progress there. So follow along for a truckload of recapping fun! :thmbsp:
hurstfelder
New Member
Subscribed
I just picked up a 2220B a couple of weeks ago and look forward to reading this, Jailtime.
Where did you order the caps from?
Thanks!
I just picked up a 2220B a couple of weeks ago and look forward to reading this, Jailtime.
Where did you order the caps from?
Thanks!
Jailtime
Standin' on a corner
I ordered the caps from Digikey. Look for 105C degree rated caps. I like Panasonic FC series. Had no problem finding all the caps I needed for the 2220B. There's a cap list earlier in this thread that I posted. I'll update it as we go along in this thread, if necessary. Starting the P800 power supply board tonight!
Jailtime
Standin' on a corner
I just finished recapping the P800 power supply board (easy one). FYI, I'm using Kester 63/37 solder, Tech Spray Pro-Wick, and a Weller WES51 soldering station. Here's the caps you'll need for the P800 board--I recommend 105C degree rated caps--
63V 470uF
50V 470uF
16V 470uF
10V 1000uF
50V 100uF
50V 3.3uF
You can see what spots to desolder in the picture of the bottom of the board, I left the legs of the caps on for the picture. Some of my joints are a bit rough, might need a few redone. Now the big news-It works!
63V 470uF
50V 470uF
16V 470uF
10V 1000uF
50V 100uF
50V 3.3uF
You can see what spots to desolder in the picture of the bottom of the board, I left the legs of the caps on for the picture. Some of my joints are a bit rough, might need a few redone. Now the big news-It works!
Attachments
I just finished recapping the P800 power supply board (easy one). FYI, I'm using Kester 63/37 solder, Tech Spray Pro-Wick, and a Weller WES51 soldering station. Here's the caps you'll need for the P800 board--I recommend 105C degree rated caps--
63V 470uF
50V 470uF
16V 470uF
10V 1000uF
50V 100uF
50V 3.3uF
You can see what spots to desolder in the picture of the bottom of the board, I left the legs of the caps on for the picture. Some of my joints are a bit rough, might need a few redone. Now the big news-It works!
Thats great JT! Glad to hear it runs!
Tell us how it sounds after you get it all done.
Leicalover
Love vintage cameras too!
Hey Jailtime!
Good work! I wish you fun and good luck on your project! Good to hear, that somebody else is working here, too. I just started a summer project as well...hope I will be successfull!!!:scratch2:
They are looking good. You might get better conections, or lets say, it might be easier to solder, if you bend the legs before soldering. Like the old ones are on your picture.
Enjoy!
Good work! I wish you fun and good luck on your project! Good to hear, that somebody else is working here, too. I just started a summer project as well...hope I will be successfull!!!:scratch2:
Some of my joints are a bit rough, might need a few redone. Now the big news-It works!
They are looking good. You might get better conections, or lets say, it might be easier to solder, if you bend the legs before soldering. Like the old ones are on your picture.
Enjoy!
Jailtime
Standin' on a corner
They are looking good. You might get better conections, or lets say, it might be easier to solder, if you bend the legs before soldering. Like the old ones are on your picture.
Enjoy!
I do bend over the legs, I figured that out after the first one soldered in a little crooked.
I just straightened the legs out for the picture, and for the safety of the receiver when I powered it on. Thanks for the feedback! :thmbsp:
Jailtime
Standin' on a corner
Finished the P400 phono amp this morning. I didn't replace the 2 little "blue gob" tantalum caps near the top of the board, I'll check to see if I have the right values. Otherwise, here's what you'll need for the rest of the electrolytic caps--
2--22uF 25V
2--47uF 16V
1--100uF 50V
I think my soldering improved a little on this board, takes some time to get the skills back. :thmbsp: I'm working on the P300 MPX board right now, should be done soon. I'm having some problems with the leftover glue, my nylon brush for the Dremel isn't stiff enough.
2--22uF 25V
2--47uF 16V
1--100uF 50V
I think my soldering improved a little on this board, takes some time to get the skills back. :thmbsp: I'm working on the P300 MPX board right now, should be done soon. I'm having some problems with the leftover glue, my nylon brush for the Dremel isn't stiff enough.
Attachments
Leicalover
Love vintage cameras too!
Last edited:
Jailtime
Standin' on a corner
Here's the P300 MPX board, once again, the little blue tantalums aren't replaced yet. The tantalums values are 2--.22uF and 2--1uF, all 35V. Here's the rest of the caps you'll need, all regular radial electrolytics.
220uF 35V
220uF 16V
10uF 16V
2--.22uF 50V--use film caps
.47uF 50V--use film
The last two boards I've recapped work fine, so we're good on the P800, 300, and 400 now.
220uF 35V
220uF 16V
10uF 16V
2--.22uF 50V--use film caps
.47uF 50V--use film
The last two boards I've recapped work fine, so we're good on the P800, 300, and 400 now.
Attachments
Jailtime
Standin' on a corner
Here we have the P200 IF board and the PE01 Tone board. What you'll need for the P200--
100uF 10V
33uF 25V
10uF 16V
1uF 50V
For the PE01--
220uF 35V
2--4.7uF 25V
2--1uF 50V
2--10uF 35V
2--3.3uF 50V (UPDATE from cap list!)
2--1uF 50V (UPDATE from cap list! These are non-polar caps.)
To get to the PE01 board, take off the faceplate. You'll see nuts on the control shafts, remove them. You can then back the tone board gently out. Thanks to Tom (catrafter) for the tip! :thmbsp:
100uF 10V
33uF 25V
10uF 16V
1uF 50V
For the PE01--
220uF 35V
2--4.7uF 25V
2--1uF 50V
2--10uF 35V
2--3.3uF 50V (UPDATE from cap list!)
2--1uF 50V (UPDATE from cap list! These are non-polar caps.)
To get to the PE01 board, take off the faceplate. You'll see nuts on the control shafts, remove them. You can then back the tone board gently out. Thanks to Tom (catrafter) for the tip! :thmbsp:
Attachments
Jailtime
Standin' on a corner
P700 and filters are done. Here's what you'll need for the main amp board--
220uF 50V
2--47uF 50V
3--47uF 16V
220uF 10V
2--3.3uF 25V
10uF 35V
Get to the P700 by unscrewing the 4 heatsink screws on the chassis. Then remove the 6 screws holding the board to the heatsink. There's two bias diodes at the top of the heatsink, loosen the nut and slide the diodes free. Be very careful with them, they are unobtainium. Open the assembly up, you're now able to access the solder joints. Then do the filter caps, frankly, they're a pain in the ass.
That's it for my recap, but now I'm having some difficulties that are documented in my "2220B problems" thread.
220uF 50V
2--47uF 50V
3--47uF 16V
220uF 10V
2--3.3uF 25V
10uF 35V
Get to the P700 by unscrewing the 4 heatsink screws on the chassis. Then remove the 6 screws holding the board to the heatsink. There's two bias diodes at the top of the heatsink, loosen the nut and slide the diodes free. Be very careful with them, they are unobtainium. Open the assembly up, you're now able to access the solder joints. Then do the filter caps, frankly, they're a pain in the ass.
That's it for my recap, but now I'm having some difficulties that are documented in my "2220B problems" thread.
A complete recap list for this model would be very nice. My 2220B sounds good but I think it would be a good first time project for recap. I am of course a little nervous about the whole "how will it sound when done issue".http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/images/smilies/scratch2.gif
