Tune to a dead spot on the dial (just noise) and adjust L201 secondary (top core) to center the meter. Use a non-metalic tuning tool such as GC AS-9300 so you don't damage the core. Don't touch the primary (bottom core) unless you have the proper test equipment to do an alignment.
Tom

Tune to a dead spot on the dial (just noise) and adjust L201 secondary (top core) to center the meter. Use a non-metalic tuning tool such as GC AS-9300 so you don't damage the core. Don't touch the primary (bottom core) unless you have the proper test equipment to do an alignment.
By the way if the slug doesn't want to move, wet it with some alcohol and hopefully it will work loose.
It is the top core from the component side. The bottom core is the one you can access from the bottom side and is to be adjusted for lowest distortion which is why the advice to not touch it is valid unless you have a good audio oscillator and distortion analyzer. From experience this is usually never far off at all anyway.
Using a metal tool is very risky as it often breaks the ferrite slug. I use a set I got from DigiKey made by Aven. They are black antistatic although that property isn't needed. The DK part number is: 243-1016-ND.
The top of the coil is the end that faces up when the receiver sits on its feet.
If you use a metal tool, you will most likely break the core.
Once in a while I come into a thread that helps me out enormously. This was one of them.