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5000X "Unserviceable"? :(

Alas, saturated with Deoxit, did the 60-60-60 reps wrist/forearm workout to no avail.

Cap removal planned. Will dig through my stash to see if I have a 220u-25V sitting around just in case, but they're like 43 cents-- I can order if I must. Unfortunately, my penny-ante multimeter only goes to 99uF, so I might need to buy another for this.
 
archibael said:
Alas, saturated with Deoxit, did the 60-60-60 reps wrist/forearm workout to no avail.

Cap removal planned. Will dig through my stash to see if I have a 220u-25V sitting around just in case, but they're like 43 cents-- I can order if I must. Unfortunately, my penny-ante multimeter only goes to 99uF, so I might need to buy another for this.
Click to expand...

Don't bother to replace it, or to measure it for this test. If you just pull it, and then try the receiver minus C020 and the voltage doesn't recover, then it isn't the problem, you can solder it back in place for now.

I'm just thinking let's get the easy stuff out of the way for the process of elimination.
 
Understood. I'd always planned on recapping the old electrolytics as part of general refurb, though, so no sense in putting the old one back in when its days are numbered anyway.
 
archibael said:
Understood. I'd always planned on recapping the old electrolytics as part of general refurb, though, so no sense in putting the old one back in when its days are numbered anyway.
Click to expand...

Understood, but you may be better served by tacking it back in, and then ordering a full set of matching caps once the troubleshooting and repair is all done with. Right now you're doing the fun part, once you get it working and are just doing maintenance, it will get mundane and repetitive.. trying to desolder all the old caps, straighten their leads out, and remove them, without liberating Sansui's traces from the circuit board. Those old boards are super easy to damage!
 
maxhifi said:
trying to desolder all the old caps, straighten their leads out, and remove them, without liberating Sansui's traces from the circuit board. Those old boards are super easy to damage!
Click to expand...

Tell me about it. I lifted my share of traces on dad's old 2000 before I got the hang of it. :(

I'm an okay solderer at best. That's why the innards of the tuner are so daunting. Luckily, no prospect of lifting traces, but it sure is crowded in there...
 
archibael said:
Tell me about it. I lifted my share of traces on dad's old 2000 before I got the hang of it. :(

I'm an okay solderer at best. That's why the innards of the tuner are so daunting. Luckily, no prospect of lifting traces, but it sure is crowded in there...
Click to expand...

One technique you can use, is to cut the leads off the old transistor, and make them into little J hooks.. Then do the same with the new one, and make them shake hands with each other. This won't be pretty but will be less disruptive to other parts.
 
Craptacular. :(

C020 snipped still results in 4V at the tuner. Which I suppose implies one of the transistors is misbehaving/leaking?
 
Measure the resistance to ground at the power supply connection to the tuner. (power off, of course.)
 
Guys
I don't own one of these and I don't have any intention of owning one.
I have to say I'm enjoying the troubleshooting process.
Thanks for the read and hopefully what i can remember, experience:thumbsup:
 
Sure, take joy in my misery!:whip:

(I kid. Though there's a certain element of frustration, when I read maxhifi saying, essentially, "This is the fun part!" my response was closer to, "It kinda is. How did he know?")
 
archibael said:
81.4 Ohms.
Click to expand...
that can't be right...

I had a fault on a G7000 where the shield from the tuning capacitor was partially shorting the front end, and was pulling the supply down....had me head scratching for a while...
I'd be looking for any mechanical condition that could be causing something like that before ripping into components etc etc....
 
I checked it several times. :dunno:

I can look for something shorted on the box, or elsewhere in the signal path. But that's what I get when I test from the tuner end of the 47 ohm resistor against ground.
 
I'll have a look at the schematic and see if I can think of something to check....I am just coming up with ideas at this point....
The fault is there somewhere, we'll find it...
 
archibael said:
81.4 Ohms.
Click to expand...
Now we're getting somewhere. There is a ceramic cap in parallel with C020. Looks like it's C011 and there is a 47 Ohm resistor in series with it, so measure the resistance to ground on both sides of the resistor.
 
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Ok, it's not either cap. Sanity check; disconnect the power wire at the tuner. Measure to ground at the tuner and wire.
 
Quick question... I was playing with the ohmmeter and two segments of the tuning cap seem to have cathode shorted to anode... which I would assume would be a no-no. It occurs to me that this could be a problem. I don't see any metal touching, but I have only given it a cursory look so far. Is that something I should investigate further, or is it normal behavior? Seems like it wouldn't be, to me.

Edit: I'm referring to the giant rotating adjustable plates connected to the dial. If that's not the tuning cap, I'm not sure what to call it.
 
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archibael said:
Quick question... I was playing with the ohmmeter and two segments of the tuning cap seem to have cathode shorted to anode... which I would assume would be a no-no. It occurs to me that this could be a problem. I don't see any metal touching, but I have only given it a cursory look so far. Is that something I should investigate further, or is it normal behavior? Seems like it wouldn't be, to me.

Edit: I'm referring to the giant rotating adjustable plates connected to the dial. If that's not the tuning cap, I'm not sure what to call it.
Click to expand...

Sorry, that was dumb. They're in parallel with an inductor. Basic circuits. Never mind.
 
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