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6p3s vs 6p3s-e 6l6gb replacement.

Carbsandcaps

Super Member
I know I’m beating a dead horse here but I can’t find a definitive answer. From what I can find they both show a 250v plate voltage. I’ve heard the 6p3s-e are equivalent to the 6L6gc which I’m not buying just going by the data sheet. I need a cheap replacement for a 6l6gb and not sure which way to go here. I also came across some sovtek 6l6gb’s and was wondering if anyone had any experience with these?
 
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A standard "6p3s" (6П3С) will work as a fine replacement for a 6L6GB. They were explicitly copies of that American tube.
 
A standard "6p3s" (6П3С) will work as a fine replacement for a 6L6GB. They were explicitly copies of that American tube.
The 6P3S-"E's are a good replacement for the 6L6GC, and ahould work just fine to replace the 6L6GB as well. I've bought a matched quad, and a matched pair of the 6P3S-E's so far.
The 6P3S and 6P3S-E tubes are pretty rugged. The last pair I just bought are in a high gain guitar amp kit I just built for my son. A couple years ago I replaced a tired quad of 6P3S-E's in his favorite amp. The original 6P3S-E's had been in the amp since new in the 80's. That amp has seen heavy use its whole life.
 

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The 6P3S-E is NOT equivalent to a 6L6GC. It will withstand the same anode voltage, but the dissipation limit is closer to the 5881, about 23W to 25W. Some amplifiers that use a 6L6GC can also use the 6P3S-E, but the operating conditions need to be verified first. Yes, the smaller 6P3S will replace the 6L6GB, but I don't think the difference in cost is worth it. The 6P3S-E is much more rugged, it draws the same filament current, and it uses the same biasing as other members of the 6L6 family.

Jack
 
Ok, I have a Scott 296 amp which specifies 7581A power tubes, and right now I’m running Tung-Sol 7581A’s. I was looking into less costly Russian comparable tubes and wondered what would work and what to avoid.
 
I know I’m beating a dead horse here but I can’t find a definitive answer. From what I can find they both show a 250v plate voltage. I’ve heard the 6p3s-e are equivalent to the 6L6gc which I’m not buying just going by the data sheet. I need a cheap replacement for a 6l6gb and not sure which way to go here. I also came across some sovtek 6l6gb’s and was wondering if anyone had any experience with these?
Why even considering a "close to" product when the real product are available for $28.50 ?
Eurotubes
 
Every data sheet i find for either tube shows a maximum plate voltage of 250v. I’ve heard they are the same tube the E is just more rugged. I don’t read Russian but it looks to me they’re about the same. IMG_4912.jpegIMG_4913.jpeg
 
Because if you’re willing to wait for shipping you can get a matched set of 4 6p3s-e from Ukraine for $70.
Great tube, and worth every penny if properly matched. Will eat tons of voltage, but keep total dissipation below 24 watts, and they'll last a long time. Ran mine at ~470v B+, class AB, fixed bias. Roughly equivalent to 5881. Sound great triode strapped too. :thumbsup:

jeff
 
The quad of 6PS-E's I replaced in that old amp my son loves were weak, but still sounded really good. Of course with a fresh set he didn't have to set the gain controls as high as before.
The seller I use does a good job of matching. There's one bias pot for that quad in the old amp, and the same for the pair in the amp I'm working on. Once I set the bias in the amp with a quad, all four tybes were withing 1% of each other.
This new pair I biased at .35mv. One tube biased to .35mv, with the other biasing at .34mv.
 
The quad of 6PS-E's I replaced in that old amp my son loves were weak, but still sounded really good. Of course with a fresh set he didn't have to set the gain controls as high as before.
The seller I use does a good job of matching. There's one bias pot for that quad in the old amp, and the same for the pair in the amp I'm working on. Once I set the bias in the amp with a quad, all four tybes were withing 1% of each other.
This new pair I biased at .35mv. One tube biased to .35mv, with the other biasing at .34mv.
That is nearly perfect, .35 & .34, I mean that’s good enough for me and if tube balance is close to .000 to .002 that great!
 
That is nearly perfect, .35 & .34, I mean that’s good enough for me and if tube balance is close to .000 to .002 that great!
Yup. I got tye same results with a quad of 6P14P-P's too from the same seller. He uses one of those Russian military tube testers that test at high voltage and test pretty much everything. They use punch cards and pegs.
It looks like a battle ship game grid. :biggrin:
 
Ok, I have a Scott 296 amp which specifies 7581A power tubes, and right now I’m running Tung-Sol 7581A’s. I was looking into less costly Russian comparable tubes and wondered what would work and what to avoid.
The 7581A is rated 35W anode dissipation. That's more than even the 6L6GC (30W). It might still be possible to use the 6L6GC, but I wouldn't consider the 6P3S-E to be a suitable replacement. To use the 6L6GC, you would first need to be install resistors at the cathodes of the output tubes so idle current can be measured. It's probably low enough to simply plug in the 6L6GC, but you need to be sure. Even after this is confirmed, you need to be aware that the 50W RMS continuous power rating of the Scott might not be possible with the 6L6GC. That doesn't mean the 6L6GC will create any problems, only that the paper rating of the amplifier might be compromised. Considering the fact that real world material consists almost entirely of transient power peaks, this limitation isn't likely to ever create an issue. I followed that approach in replacing the 7581 tubes (not the "A" version) with 6P3S-E in my 40W/ch Citation V. I reduced the idle current to a value more appropriate for the new tubes, and they're working fine.

Jack
 
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Every data sheet i find for either tube shows a maximum plate voltage of 250v.
The sheet for the 6P3S-E is a highly conservative avionics rating. It has no relevance to the tube's capabilities in consumer audio applications. I'm running these tubes at about 470V in my Citation, and others have used them up to at least 500V with no issues.

Jack
 
And just to confuse this issue, here's a thread with info posted by a Russian insider who had access to the factory documents. He claims optimal operating conditions for the 6P3S-E (such as load impedance) are more similar to the EL34 than to the 6L6. I haven't been able to confirm this on the bench, as subbing the 6P3S-E for NOS Sylvania 5881 showed nearly identical performance. I intend to revisit this someday, as well as determining the absolute limits by sacrificing a few 6P3S-E to destructive testing.

6P3S-E Discussion (Audio Asylum)

Jack
 
And just to confuse this issue, here's a thread with info posted by a Russian insider who had access to the factory documents. He claims optimal operating conditions for the 6P3S-E (such as load impedance) are more similar to the EL34 than to the 6L6. I haven't been able to confirm this on the bench, as subbing the 6P3S-E for NOS Sylvania 5881 showed nearly identical performance. I intend to revisit this someday, as well as determining the absolute limits by sacrificing a few 6P3S-E to destructive testing.

6P3S-E Discussion (Audio Asylum)

Jack
The one Russian amp I went through for my son had both theb6P3S-E and 5881 listed on its schematic for output tubes. I listened to a couple Dynaco ST-70's in the 1990's that were using 6P3S-E's.
 
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