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9090DB F-2624 Driver Board Repair and anomaly question

Telesis

New Member
First time poster, long time reader! I searched this board six ways to Sunday and didn't find a reference to the anomaly I observed during my repair. I'm wondering if I just missed it.

The unit came to me for repair from another guy who was unsuccessful fixing it. In the intervening time between him and me, the owner powered it up and said he let smoke out of some more of the parts! The short version of my successful repair was to redo the driver board and replace all 8 output transistors and switch to 6A fuses. I bought the f-2624 rebuild kit off ebay(highly recommend this approach and it comes with great docs) and the recommended output transistors from Mouser and Newark. Replaced every semi, elec cap, fuse resistor, and some other resistors that were toast. [It's worth noting this unit has the newer version f-2624 board with the bias varistors]

The anomaly was that when I went to adjust the bias, the pots referenced in the manual (4-2-2) were backwards. IOW, adjusting the current through F04 was accomplished via VR04, NOT VR03. Likewise, F05 current was adjusted with VR03. Anyone else have this? Is it mentioned in a post I missed? (This was not mentioned in the docs that came with the rebuild kit) Perhaps the older version of the board is as noted in the Sansui manual?

With the board removed, I wanted to share that every single semi and fuse resistor on the f-2624 can be successfully tested in-circuit (except the STV3Hs which I tested by pulling a leg and using a power supply and dropping resistor). I tested the output transistors in-circuit as well so I didn't have to pull off the heat sink. I used an Agilent bench DMM in diode mode to test the semi's and the fuse resistances were spot on as well in-circuit. For giggles and grins, at least for those of you with grey hair like me, I pulled out the dusty trusty Sencore Super Cricket and double checked all semi's in-circuit and it worked perfectly!

When I first went to adjust the bias and before I knew the pot references were backwards, I set them at midpoint resulting in a 500mA bias on both channels which I couldn't change. I didn't think to try the other pot at the time! Old-man moment I guess! I pulled the board thinking something was still wrong and that's when I did all the in-circuit testing again. When I put it back in is when I discovered that adjusting the opposite pot got me dialed in to 30mA.

This 9090 is purring like a kitten now!
 
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Hi, it should be covered. In the instructions, I have:

12. Reinstall the board and power up on your dim-bulb tester. Make sure you put the board in exactly right--if it's off by a pin or two, you will have problems. If your dim-bulb light is pulsing and won't stop lighting, try turning the trimmers all fully counter-clockwise. Assuming the receiver comes out of protection, adjust the amp board voltages as per your service manual, on the dim-bulb. Be very gentle when adjusting the trimmers--a little goes a long way! There is a small mistake on the service manual--you have to reverse F04 and F05, so you actually pull F04 for the right channel and F05 for the left. You should use mini-grabber leads on your multimeter. If the voltages adjust fine, then run your Sansui for a bit to make sure everything is good. If it seems fine, then you can take it off the dim-bulb and re-adjust the amp board voltages again. You need to do this step again because the dim-bulb will not be limiting the voltage so it will probably need readjustment.
 
Boy now I really feel like a horse's a__. It is right there EastPoint and I have no clue how I missed it! You even bolded it for an old retired engineer like me! Thanks also to DougBrewster for pointing out the silk screen markings are wrong!

In a word, ... duh! In the end, my customer is ecstatic!
 
No worries. Glad you got it working. Those boards really suck to work on when they're hacked up. I have a really bad one here that I almost got working, but not quite. Luckily there are lots of F-2624 boards floating around.
 
I tested every component in-circuit prior to pulling and when removed, while doing the rebuild just so I could document what all was bad. The oddest failure I found, at least for me, was that one of the 100ohm bias pots tested as open, both in-circuit and out. That was a failure mode I wasn't anticipating but I'm guessing you seasoned Sansui folks likely have. Now I know why you include those pots in your kit! Good luck with your board and thanks again for a great kit of parts. I encourage everyone to 'read the manual'......all of it....twice! LOL!
 
Welcome to the Sansui forum. If you still have the unit might take a minute and replace the fuse-able resistors on the protection board, simple to accomplish once you realize the tuner assembly lifts off after removing eight screws.
 
Thanks Overundr1. I took a look at the protection board and it is physically different size/layout than in the manual. Once again, I'm assuming it's because it's a newer version. Good news is there was easy access to measure the fuse resistors and they are spot on.
 
While studying the protection board and reading more posts here about it, I didn't realize there was a green LED when out of protection mode that wasn't working and sure enough R12 was bad. I did not want to disturb the tuner assembly and so I replaced R12 with a 5W 1.5K from my junkbox and did so on the topside of the board.

... never too old to learn something new every day. I really like this forum! Thanks to all who contribute!
 
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