• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

a/d/s L-710 tweeter not working

C

centaurus3200

Well-Known Member
hi all,

i bought some ratty L-710's for $15 at our local radio club. they SAID they were tested and worked. i went home and one tweeter wasn't working.

i swear i didn't see a panel for a tweeter fuse, but it sounds like these speakers do have some sort of "plastic door" near the binding posts for the fuses?

this is the first time i'm reading about this, so i'm not at home to further investigate.

do all 710's have the fuses? where would this "plastic door" be and what does it look like?

thanks,
Robby
 
Register to hide this ad
My 880's have that door. It's right above the connectors. Kind of a bugger to get loose, slides towards the top if I remember correctly.
 
Take the woofer out and look inside. Could be internal. Or take the tweets out and measure resistance. That will tell you if they are good or not.
 
I am almost certain there's a fuse, either cylinder type or a bulb type, in the box.
 
Is yours a 710 or L710 as they are two different animals.

IIRC you need to pull the woofer to get to the crossover where the fuse is located on the 710.
 
wmgwizard said:
Is yours a 710 or L710 as they are two different animals.

IIRC you need to pull the woofer to get to the crossover where the fuse is located on the 710.
Click to expand...

if you look at the pics in the link, they say L710 in the front, but only 710 on the back...
 
Interesting, I did not look closely at all the pictures.

Looks like a transitional unit, the end of the 710/beginning of L710

The 710 had a little nicer veneer, cloth grilles and IIRC internal fuses.

Th L710 had beveled corners, metal grilles and externally accessible fuses.

Pull the lower woofer and move the insulation back to access the crossover. Make sure to wear gloves as the insulation can be irritating. Also be careful with the gasket around the woofer, an airtight seal is needed for best performance.
 
Not entirely accurate.

Original L710 (ADS version) is what I see in that picture of the terminals - very early, judging by what looks like foam surrounds. This would have been their in-house first pass, prior to that they were distributing the Braun-manufactured 710 which would have had different driver mounting detail & usually some sealing materials showing around the edges of the mid/tweeter plates. This one does have the rounded midrange front plate though, which would have been square on the Braun and (according to this brochure) on the first-gen aDs version as well: http://sportsbil.com/ads/l-710-specs.pdf. Maybe those have been replaced, who knows. I also noticed that the crossover shown in that brochure pic at the bottom doesn't appear to have a fuse; I didn't think that version did BUT I haven't been inside any of those early ones in years - could be wrong.

I believe all of the ADS versions of the 710 officially should have the "L" in front, despite the "710" marking on that label. In the catalog it would have

That was followed by a version with spring-loaded terminals, but still cloth grills and square cabinet corners.

The final version had binding posts (and fuseholder hidden behind), metal grills, rounded cabinet corners.

Getting back to the OP question, for this version I'd pull the tweeter and check to see if signal is reaching it as a first step. That will tell you whether it's the tweeter or something in the crossover or wiring.

John
 
Last edited:
wmgwizard said:
Interesting, I did not look closely at all the pictures.

Looks like a transitional unit, the end of the 710/beginning of L710

The 710 had a little nicer veneer, cloth grilles and IIRC internal fuses.

Th L710 had beveled corners, metal grilles and externally accessible fuses.

Pull the lower woofer and move the insulation back to access the crossover. Make sure to wear gloves as the insulation can be irritating. Also be careful with the gasket around the woofer, an airtight seal is needed for best performance.
Click to expand...

Mine says "L710" but has cloth grills and internal fuses.
 
color me confused. I am not following what's going on here.

the OP posted this in Post #5 and says "mine look like this"
776462-ads-l710-speakers.jpg


In that same string of pictures, the front says L710 and the rear just says 710. There is no fuse on the ouside, nor a door. Hence, he's gonna have to open them up. I'll bet there's a fuse in there somewhere.
 
Contributing to the chaos... Mine are designated 710... no L... very nice walnut veneer, clothe grille, square corners, older terminals and very unusual labeling (see below), rubber surrounds (???), and no fuse, internal or otherwise.

My tweeter model is the original 206-0107 which I understand was replaced by the 206-0117 in the later L models.

I can't figure out the labeling or the serial #, and had originally thought that given all the early model features, the rubber surround woofers must have been installed at some point replacing original foam woofers, however I purchased these from the original owner and no such work had been done.

It's a mystery.

EDIT: I've added pictures of the front of my 710s, and a detail of the rubber surround woofer with the wire dots in the cone.

attachment.php
attachment.php
attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • 00r0r_9hGjLSDPrr5_600x450.jpg
    00r0r_9hGjLSDPrr5_600x450.jpg
    31.5 KB · Views: 76
  • 20140802_200731.jpg
    20140802_200731.jpg
    75.6 KB · Views: 67
  • 20140802_200740.jpg
    20140802_200740.jpg
    83.2 KB · Views: 65
Last edited:
Can we see the front of that last speaker, please?

baco99, no question - the mention of fuses under plastic covers was off-target here, esp. given the picture the OP provided. For sure there is no rear panel accessible fuse on the version the OP has asked about.

I'm not seeing an internal fuse on the crossover picture from that brochure I posted a link for either. But, some of you that own older versions of the L710 say there is an internal fuse and I can't say there isn't, not from my own experience.

Still think it's easier to pull the tweeter and check for signal there but if there is a fuse and it is readily accessible by pulling the woofer, easy enough to go that route.

John
 
Forgot to say... The L 710s are awesome speakers. My favorite. If you can't fix the tweeter, totally worth it to source a new one.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom