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A properly operating Lenco does not rumble

Guest143

Active Member
With this (loong) post, I seek not so much to elicit responses (though always welcome) but more to convey information which corrects certain misconceptions which lead to the erroneous dispensation of misinformation leading others astray.

Rumble in the Jungle???

A properly operating Lenco does not rumble.

This post is partly inspired by a thread citing this ‘issue’ - found here; https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/lenco-l78.798368/

But, instead of posting there and resurrecting that thread, I thought it better to post with a title specific to this issue, so that others seeking relevant info will more easily find it under this and similar headings.

I'm quite sure that quite a lot of mis-leading information is based on personal experience (though hear-say is also often a factor) and is usually honestly conveyed in good faith, with all the best intentions. But generalizing about one bad experience and disparaging thousands of perfectly operating gear (or a whole brand of equipment) is just as damaging as misinformation conveyed with sinister intent.

Perhaps we could be a bit more careful of that. :idea:

The road to 'disaster' is paved with good intentions, as the saying goes.

Before I go further, be advised that I have and have had other TTs which some would claim to be ‘better’ than the Lenco I also possess (even as others tout the ‘magnitude’ of a Lenco’s giant-killing quality). Nevertheless, with alternatives which are deemed ‘better’ in some ways, I’m not motivated by a desire to defend the ‘honor’ of my one and only prized possession. Moreover, I also share the opinion that there are aspects of the Lenco which are surpassed by at least one of my other TTs (specifically at deep-bass, midrange tone, and low-level detail & nuance).

Still, despite the standard Lenco’s small shortcomings in the areas mentioned (one or two of which I’ve thankfully improved slightly in my own unit) it, and some other idlers too, are world-beaters in other very important areas, such as; dynamism and midbass tightness & ‘punch’ – attributes which idlers have always excelled at, but which the audiophile world has only recently awakened to, after chasing less important aspects (like soundstaging) for decades. In these attributes, idlers like the Lenco, Thorens, EMT, and Garrard allegedly outperform most of the world’s very best TTs (especially my favorite belt-drivers, many of which cannot hold a candle to idlers in these regards).

These are the attributes which account for the fact that the Lenco and other idlers (in recent decades) have been replacing some TTs which are widely regarded as some of the world’s best – i.e. according to the former owners of the ousted ‘super-tables,’ even as they acknowledge that the ousted TTs are (still) more detailed and refined. (More evidence of the fact that ‘the best-sounding TT’ is in the ear of the beholder – and this is also dependent on which attributes are in vogue in whichever era, bye the way, as the same idlers were once ignored and discarded in the eras after their own hey-day).

I could posit that it is very highly unlikely that so very many owners of super-tables (all of which feature what’s commonly described as ‘an inky-black back-ground’) would now foolishly replace those with noisy and rumble-prone idlers.

That fact alone should put the issue to bed.

However, since I’m most familiar with my own Lenco, I’ll confine my arguments to this brand and repeat my assertion that; a properly operating Lenco does not rumble – not in the least – as it’s as quiet as my direct-drive Technics and, also, as my belt-driven Thorens 125 and my former Linn (which was put aside for its midbass colorations).

I’ll go further to assert that any properly re-conditioned Lenco which rumbles is not only not operating properly but also should be dumped and replaced with a better unit. It’s better to do that than to unfairly disparage the brand on a wide-scale basis.

But before dumping, every area should be addressed to eliminate any noise.

And this is where I suspect many disillusioned detractors have failed – as I suspect one important area is generally neglected, due mainly to a lack of information.

That area is the lubrication of the idler-wheel’s ‘axle.’

I haven’t seen this stressed in either of the two Home-Despot threads, and neither have I seen this stipulation made anywhere else (though I might have missed it somewhere).

My point is, though, that the scarcity of this specific instruction might have caused many would-be Lencophiles to neglect that area, which (my own experience tells me) would definitely cause a noisy and ‘rumbley’ effect.

Briefly, I’ll simply relate that after receiving and preparing my own NOS Lenco 75, three or four years ago, I was disappointed to hear annoying rumble (even as I marveled at the realistic dynamism and slam).

Eventually, I surmised that the idler’s axle is the only area I hadn’t lubed. And so I did that…

…and the result was…

…no more rumble!

Dead quiet!

An ‘inky-black silence’ between tracks!

Therefore, I’d respectfully suggest to the nay-sayers who allege that Lencos are rumble-prone that they should address the idler-axle and all other possible sources of said rumble.

And, if all areas are addressed, with rumble still in evidence, then dump that particular Lenco unit and recognize the experience as your misfortune in nabbing a defective unit (which might well occasionally occur with 50 year-old items of any sort). Neither does a Lenco need a heavy plinth to suppress noise - that's a myth (addressed in part 2 of this post, here; https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...at-ignore-claims-that-you-must-modify.895853/). If a Lenco rumbles, it's defective - dump it and get a properly operating unit, or something else.

Again; I have no doubt that some mean well and are honestly only relating what they’d heard of or had experienced themselves. But it would be better if they did not use hear-say or their own bad experience with one or two units as their basis to disparage ALL Lencos, erroneously discouraging potential Lencophiles with the implication that all are rumble-prone.

They are not.

I repeat; a properly operating Lenco does not rumble.

Cheers :thumbsup:
 
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God writeup waj4all!
I recently worked on a Lenco B52. An older model than the L75, with I lighter stamped platter. Same motor and drive system though.
After reading lots of "Lencos rumble"-threads, combined with my own experience with other idlers (that has a little rumble going on)I Iwas expecting this to rumble too, at least to hear it between tracks.

But after doing a full restore (and yes, lubricate that idler bearing was part of it). I was surprised to hear nothing to very little rumble. I would say it runs as silent as the most silent deck I have experienced so far, a Dual 601 belt drive!

For me a critical fix was realigning the motor rotor in the coils. Got rid of some vibrations that could be heard through the stylus.
 
Oh, forgot to mention that the b52 was sort of a warming up project.
Got a L75 waiting for a tune up. Really curious how it will perform. It got that tonearm everyone seems to "love"....
 
Oh, forgot to mention that the b52 was sort of a warming up project.
Got a L75 waiting for a tune up. Really curious how it will perform. It got that tonearm everyone seems to "love"....

Best of luck with that. I'm sure you'll love it. :music:
 
No flames mean, but pictures of the Lenco might be informative to those of us who have no hands on experience with them.
 
No flames mean, but pictures of the Lenco might be informative to those of us who have no hands on experience with them.

Not great at taking or posting pics, so bear with me. Does it seem I've been called out? Oh. well.... Always experimenting, so system always changing as gear is shifted around from time to time.

Cheers :music:







Experimenting with stacked platters; Lenco/Lenco-arm/AT12S (SL1700 below)
IMG-20180102-00174.jpg



Most of the main system: Linn, EAR 834P, Thorens 125, Sony HiFi VCR, Sony CDP 610ES, Audio-Research LS3, UREI 6150. Sherwood AM7040, EQ/xover for bass, DIY speakers with 2x12" late-model KLH mid-woofers, Yamaha NS10 mid-woofers, Altec horns, Goodmans 18s for subs at back in tall black enclosure.
AA My system.jpg




Trying to simplify system: SL1700, Pioneer SX626, Lenco, Linn

IMG-20160306-WA0054.jpg



Thorens 125/SAU2/Signet TK7E
zz My Thorens 125 SAU2 Signet-TK7E.jpg

Thorens 125 w Ittok
zz Thorens 125 w Ittok w styrofoam for VTA 3.jpg
NOS Lenco (w Ittok) still in cut-down styrofoam-packing just after delivery [Thorens 125 w SME/Grado-Sonata below.]
zz Lenco with Ittok in styrofoam plinth ha ha in place of   Sondek and much better as is.jpg

Main system (Linn & EAR in pic now replaced, btw - current active TTs; Lenco, Thorens 125, SL1700)
zz Ref System w DIY 5 foot towers & 5 foot subs behind.jpg


Sparse simplification of the system in one area, leads to stock-piles of gear in others. Problems, problems! :music:Clockwise;ReVox A77 Mk IV two-track R2R, Pioneer RT-901 4-track R2R, Pioneer Spec 1 pre-amp, UREI power-amp, Audio-Research LS-3 line-stage preamp, mixer.
AA ReVox, RT901 Spec 1 ARC UREI & mixer.jpg

Cheers :thumbsup:
 

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pictures of the Lenco might be informative

The previous pics were taken at various times in the past and reflect the fact that the system is always changing as various experiments are carried out. But since those don't reflect the present, I've decided to provide two more, with verification of the date, as I'm not sure if the veracity of my presentations and arguments is being (or might be) queried by anyone. No prob, though - happy to oblige - whether or not that is so.

[Edit: Incidentally, there are some who’d find it difficult to understand that a ‘naked’ or 'skeletal' Lenco has its own merits (Loricraft offers a skeletal Garrard, incidentally) and that there’s no great increase in performance with a plinth of any kind on a Lenco (sometimes even detrimental, unless your initials are ‘JN’ or something equivalent) despite the hype, and I can produce testimonials from several who’ve arrived at the same conclusion after actual comparisons. Though there are good reasons for my lack of interest in the touted heavy plinths, there are two hollow plinths I’ve actually tried on my Lenco, just because I had them around (still have one from my own dismantled BD2) and I prefer the skeletal option, for several reasons, not least because it facilitates my use of an arm-pod with a short arm I also have. Nevertheless, I could well have spruced-up the Lenco and others of my best gear and made a much more impressive presentation (perhaps even garnering oodles of admiration too). But that’s not really important to me - I'm much more interested in sound-quality, even from the least visually-impressive gear.

Some are unflattering pics taken at various times merely to record my tests and without preparation or regard for the looks of the gear (and without any intent for public display). But some of the ugliest pics (like the Lenco-experiment with stacked platters and a pencil, or the Thorens with Ittok and SAU2 , or the sparse-looking ‘simplification’ pic with the Techie being tested with the Ittok, or even the two with the ugly green stands, etc, in this post) are the ones which provide evidence that I have what I’d alluded to and that I’ve actually done the tests I’ve based some of my arguments on. And this is more important to me than presenting flattering pics with a staged selection of my most impressive gear. For instance, most folks with ‘impressive’ alternatives would never display or promote a lowly receiver over my more highly-reputed Audio-Research, Spec 1, or Quad gear, but I actually prefer it for several reasons I could articulate at some other time, especially over the Quads. (Again; the same applies to the hastily taken pics in this post too, btw).

Right or wrong, I’m supposing any doubt would relate to whether I’m dispensing untested and baseless misinformation, which is what I’ve alleged some others in Audiophillia are doing (i.e. the the dispensing of baseless and erroneous info; not the ‘dispensation’ of it, as I’d mistakenly said in a previous post).

Yet, I take no offence if proof is required.]

The next two pics (awful as usual) were taken at mid-day today 12/23/19. The calendar date is obscure, so a marker was used to indicate today's date (more visible in the last and worst pic).

Note, the TTs are oriented with the backs to the front to facilitate ease of use when swapping an arm and pod between the them.





Main-system gear at front - clockwise: Thorens 125, Lenco, UREI 6150 power-amp, Pioneer SX626 receiver (being used for pre-amp/phono x 2) Technics SL1700. EQ (to equalize for Altecs' natural H-F roll-off = pristine trebles) tuner, Quad 303, FM 2, 33. Note electronics currently alternate between Quads and UREI/SX626 combo, with the latter preferred in ongoing experiment leading to a final choice (as usual). DIY 2-way speakers; Altec H-F horns with Goodmans 18" midwoofers in large bass-reflex enclosures. (Audio-Research LS3 line-stage currently being used in second system with laptop, Magnavox tube-amp or custom solid-state amp, and DIY towers with the NS-10 drivers and double-12" KLHs, previously used as mains before the speaker/sub-woofer system was split-into two separate speaker-systems for different rooms).

Some of the spare gear on the sidelines; (clockwise) ReVox A77 Mk IV two-track R2R, Pioneer RT-901 4-track R2R, Pioneer Spec 1 pre-amp, mixer (with one or two of these having a minor issue to be addressed, btw).

IMG-20191223-00601.jpg

Re; date below - 12/23/19
IMG-20191223-00597.jpg
 
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It's also ok to purchase an item with the preconceived notion to mod it.

Take my old 1976 Mercedes 300D: I bought that car -- which was brilliant and beautiful, stock -- with the sole intention of adding a second fuel tank in the trunk, a valve to switch between fuel tanks, an electric fuel line heater, a coolant heat exchanger for the fuel line, and a preliminary fuel filter. All this, so I could run the car on free, used, filtered cooking oil I picked up from my favourite tempura joint. I put homebrew biodiesel (or gas station diesel fuel) in the main tank, which was only used for starting, and flushing the waste vegetable oil out of the fuel lines prior to engine shut down. That car had barely any fossil carbon footprint, and paid for itself many times over in fuel savings. Well, at least once over...

I bought a Lenco L75S last week with the same intention. To put it in a vibration-sinking plinth, and add a second arm, a Rega RB300 that a friend gave me, and which I like very much.

The Lenco sounds OK stock. It sounds excellent in many ways, but only OK because there is a faint hum which I have not yet been able to get rid of, and the faintest of rumbles. I will give it a good service soon, once work mellows out a bit, but I am thinking the Jelco SA-13TL1 arm on this Italian Lenco (or so the "experts" at Lencoheaven say) may need new wires. A CEC BD-3000 I have in the garage has the exact same arm, and no audible hum compared to the Lenco.

My main table is a Mission 775S with said RB300 arm, and a Denon DL-300 LOMC into a K and K SUT. It smokes the Lenco at present. And I was hoping the stock Lenco would smoke the Mission. Oh well, time to start servicing, fixing, and modding!
 
W
It's also ok to purchase an item with the preconceived notion to mod it.

Take my old 1976 Mercedes 300D: I bought that car -- which was brilliant and beautiful, stock -- with the sole intention of adding a second fuel tank in the trunk, a valve to switch between fuel tanks, an electric fuel line heater, a coolant heat exchanger for the fuel line, and a preliminary fuel filter. All this, so I could run the car on free, used, filtered cooking oil I picked up from my favourite tempura joint. I put homebrew biodiesel (or gas station diesel fuel) in the main tank, which was only used for starting, and flushing the waste vegetable oil out of the fuel lines prior to engine shut down. That car had barely any fossil carbon footprint, and paid for itself many times over in fuel savings. Well, at least once over...

I bought a Lenco L75S last week with the same intention. To put it in a vibration-sinking plinth, and add a second arm, a Rega RB300 that a friend gave me, and which I like very much.

The Lenco sounds OK stock. It sounds excellent in many ways, but only OK because there is a faint hum which I have not yet been able to get rid of, and the faintest of rumbles. I will give it a good service soon, once work mellows out a bit, but I am thinking the Jelco SA-13TL1 arm on this Italian Lenco (or so the "experts" at Lencoheaven say) may need new wires. A CEC BD-3000 I have in the garage has the exact same arm, and no audible hum compared to the Lenco.

My main table is a Mission 775S with said RB300 arm, and a Denon DL-300 LOMC into a K and K SUT. It smokes the Lenco at present. And I was hoping the stock Lenco would smoke the Mission. Oh well, time to start servicing, fixing, and modding!
What cart, you should have no hum...
Chris
 
It's also ok to purchase an item with the preconceived notion to mod it.

Take my old 1976 Mercedes 300D: I bought that car -- which was brilliant and beautiful, stock -- with the sole intention of adding a second fuel tank in the trunk, a valve to switch between fuel tanks, an electric fuel line heater, a coolant heat exchanger for the fuel line, and a preliminary fuel filter. All this, so I could run the car on free, used, filtered cooking oil I picked up from my favourite tempura joint. I put homebrew biodiesel (or gas station diesel fuel) in the main tank, which was only used for starting, and flushing the waste vegetable oil out of the fuel lines prior to engine shut down. That car had barely any fossil carbon footprint, and paid for itself many times over in fuel savings. Well, at least once over...

I bought a Lenco L75S last week with the same intention. To put it in a vibration-sinking plinth, and add a second arm, a Rega RB300 that a friend gave me, and which I like very much.

The Lenco sounds OK stock. It sounds excellent in many ways, but only OK because there is a faint hum which I have not yet been able to get rid of, and the faintest of rumbles. I will give it a good service soon, once work mellows out a bit, but I am thinking the Jelco SA-13TL1 arm on this Italian Lenco (or so the "experts" at Lencoheaven say) may need new wires. A CEC BD-3000 I have in the garage has the exact same arm, and no audible hum compared to the Lenco.

My main table is a Mission 775S with said RB300 arm, and a Denon DL-300 LOMC into a K and K SUT. It smokes the Lenco at present. And I was hoping the stock Lenco would smoke the Mission. Oh well, time to start servicing, fixing, and modding!
Is the hum coming through the speakers or audible from the turntable itself?
 
It's really difficult to diagnose the issue without having access to the turntable, but I'll try.

If the hum is present even if the turntable is not turned on, the issue is electrical in nature -> faulty wiring and/or ground loop.

If the hum is present when the turntable is turned on but the stylus is not in the groove, then it's magnetic hum induced by the motor.

If the issue is present only when the stylus is in the groove, it's rumble.

FWIW, the Lenco motor has a rather strong magnetic field. It can induce hum in poorly designed cartridges (e.g. Grado), in MC step-up transformers and even in phonostages. IIRC there was a thread over at Lenco Heaven where the guy was trying to find the source of hum and the problem was solved when he moved his SUT further away from the turntable.
 
The only problem I experienced with hum on my L75 was a physical hum from the motor itself caused by loose coils vibrating in the stator housing.
I caused it myself by at too optimistic whack on the motor to seat the bearings after servicing o_O
A pretty easy fix (but messy, involving some really sloppy, runny glue operation I´d rather not talk about :-)... ). So not sure if this buzz caused hum through the stylus to the speakers or not since I fixed it before mounting it after servicing.
 
W

What cart, you should have no hum...
Chris

Empire 4000D, Excel ES70EX4, Empire 2000E, Audio Technica AT57EX

Three different headshells; original Lenco/Jelco, CEC/Jelco for same arm on BD-2000, and integrated shell on the AT57XE.

The hum is VERY faint, but it is there. If the cartridge is ungrounded, the typical hum is very loud. FWIW.
 
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It's really difficult to diagnose the issue without having access to the turntable, but I'll try.

If the hum is present even if the turntable is not turned on, the issue is electrical in nature -> faulty wiring and/or ground loop.

If the hum is present when the turntable is turned on but the stylus is not in the groove, then it's magnetic hum induced by the motor.

If the issue is present only when the stylus is in the groove, it's rumble.

FWIW, the Lenco motor has a rather strong magnetic field. It can induce hum in poorly designed cartridges (e.g. Grado), in MC step-up transformers and even in phonostages. IIRC there was a thread over at Lenco Heaven where the guy was trying to find the source of hum and the problem was solved when he moved his SUT further away from the turntable.

Thanks for the trouble shooting help.

Hum is present even when the turntable is not turned on.

RCAs were very tarnished - I thought they were painted black on the outside at first! But cleaning them made no difference. I tried attaching a wire from a chassis screw to a ground lug in a preamp but this made no difference. 3 different headshells used, the original Lenco, a CEC headshell from the same arm, and the AT57XE which has an integrated headshell.

I have tried reversing the two prong power cord into the power bar (works for my Thorens!), no go. And I have checked as much of the wiring as I can (haven't taken the chassis out of the plinth yet.
 
On a similar note, I have a Dual 1219 (my main deck) which has virtually no rumble and recently got an Elac 40H which rumbled like crazy.

I cleaned and lubed the Elac spindle bearing and the nylon cycling gear to no avail. Then I realized the deck wasn't level so I shimmed it and that got rid of 50% of it but I can still hear it. It's got a brand new tire. Sounds like a combo of spindle bearing and motor noise. It's not my main deck, though, so I'm just letting it eat.
 
Empire 4000D, Excel ES70EX4, Empire 2000E, Audio Technica AT57EX

Three different headshells; original Lenco/Jelco, CEC/Jelco for same arm on BD-2000, and integrated shell on the AT57XE.

The hum is VERY faint, but it is there. If the cartridge is ungrounded, the typical hum is very loud. FWIW.
Try insulating cart from headshell this can work. Also check with meter that between right pos and ground and left pos and ground there is mega ohms. I had a job recently with hum and there was 130 ohms between left pos and ground so maybe even a slight bridge like 500 ohms or 1k would also cause an issue.. Try insulating the carts though first this is very likely. Check too that ground to arm and headshell is connected ie meter from ground wire to arm wand and also headshell. If no then this is the reason for sure. You can test this by getting a wire and connect it to the ground wire and other end touch arm wand and headshell and if hum goes you have found the problem.
Chris
 
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