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A Reference 400 Restoration/Modification

dcgillespie

Fisher SA-100 Clone
Subscriber
Recently, an inquiry was made about all the various things done to restore a typical Fisher receiver, and what all the various modifications available were, since there was no one place to go to get all of this information. Having recently finished up a 400 receiver (early version in this case) restoration for a client, that also had requested nearly all of the available modifications to be installed, it made for a perfect unit to provide detail pics of, so that those contemplating work done on their unit can get a better idea of what is involved in each case. Therefore, this will largely be a thread of pics, with a few comments thrown in to support each pic presented. The work presented is component level work, in addition to the customary cleaning of tube sockets, switches and controls, and the testing/replacement of tubes.

The pics will spotlight three basic areas of work done/to be done relative specifically to a 400 receiver, with most items applicable to Fisher's other receivers as well. These include:

1. Standard Restoration Work: This work replaces those items that are well documented to fail over time, or have already failed to prevent proper operation of the unit as designed. Replacement of these items will return a unit to the performance and dependability as designed by Fisher, understanding that some wear items (i.e., switches and controls) will be assessed/addressed as necessary on a unit by unit basis. This includes the replacement of:

A
. All electrolytic caps in the B+ power supply, DC Heater/Bias supply, MPX, and Ratio Detector circuits. New top side can caps are installed to minimize the intrusion/need of otherwise new under-chassis components required, which helps to minimize clutter and maintain the look of the original Fisher build.
B. Both HV (B+) rectifier diodes.
C. The selenium rectifier with a silicon unit if so equipped.
D. Both AC Bypass caps.
E. Phono preamp and MPX mylar coupling caps.
F. Any other component showing signs of stress, is out of production tolerance, or through troubleshooting has been determined to prevent less than designed/expected performance.


2. Basic Modification Package: This work is considered to be needed work, and addresses known circuit issues, modifies a unit to provide added dependability/component protections beyond that provided by Fisher, and modifies a unit to operate with original intended performance while taking into account of the realities of today's electronic world. Areas addressed includes the reality of today's: modern components, available tubes, AC Power, and FM broadcasting. This includes the installation of:

A. A CL-80 In-rush current limiter.
B. Precision 10Ω .25 watt 1% cathode current sampling resistors at each output tube socket.
C. 100Ω .25 watt Screen Stability resistors at each output tube socket.
D. Some form of bias adjustment for controlling output tube current draw, either via a single bias control for all four tubes, or a circuit allowing individual adjustment of each tube, using either an IBAM, or IBBA as desired.
E. The headphone fix, to correct the incorrect headphone channel identity as built.
F. A voltage dropping network to provide the MPX B+ 1 rail with an ideal 240 vdc.
G. Stereo indicating threshold adjustment.
H. Phase Inverter/Driver stage modifications.


3. Optional Performance/Feature Enhancing Modifications: These are self explanatory, and include:

A.
Removal of Aux/Tape Mon bleed circuit. Allows both of these inputs to operate independently of each other.
B. Electrically relocate Tape Mon circuit to same signal point as Input Selector switch. Allows Tape Monitor input to display the same sensitivity as Aux input.
C. Convert Tape Head input into an additional high level input. In conjunction with 3A and 3B above, provides for three separate and independent high level inputs of equal sensitivity.
D. Remove permanent LF filters.
E. Change out Phono Preamp ceramic inter-stage coupling caps with mylar caps. Improves phono performance not because mylar is audibly better than ceramic, but because the +/- 20% ceramic caps used in this position are invariably in spec 20% below value. Mylar caps are typically much closer to specified value. Installing an on target value then improves LF performance.
F. Tone Control Engage/Bypass switch. Allows instant and accurate flat performance if desired.
G. Conversion of Reverb In/Out jacks to Preamp Out/Power Amp In jacks. Allows unit to act as either a tuner/ preamp for a separate external power amp, or a power amp for a separate external preamp.
H. Installation of EFB™. Produces more power at lower distortion, and allows the use of lower output tube quiescent current. Enhances tube life and promotes cooler overall operation. Strongly recommended for late version units due to the change in operating conditions Fisher created when changing the OPT to a 10.2KΩ unit. Under high level operating conditions, this places great stress on the output tubes, which the installation of EFB can correct.


For the unit whose pics are presented here, all of the above restoration and modification work was requested and installed with the exception of item 3F. The pics then can help the hobbiest/tech get a better idea of the work entailed for each of the items listed:

BELOW: The unit as received. It has seen a bench before: The Balance control was replaced (with a proper Fisher piece), the Bias decoupling cap was replaced, and a used MPX 1 uF composite cap was tacked in place to try and repair the defective MPX section. When that didn't fix it, the old component was (apparently) tacked back in. No other previous service work was observed.
SAM_2697.JPG

BELOW: Always repairing performance issues that routine restoration work might not correct first, the MPX unit was removed and recapped, and the Stereo/Mono Threshold adjustment modification (resistor) installed as well. The ultimate problems with the unit were determined to be a (literally) dead shorted coupling cap, a broken tube socket receptor pin at V102, and horrible alignment due to previous efforts to see if twisting and turning things would correct the issues. The new 1 uF composite coupling cap, and new .0047 trigger coupling cap (C214) have been installed at this point.
SAM_2700.JPG

BELOW: The output coupling caps were then replaced. These small .047 630 volt caps are perfect for the tight space allowed.
SAM_2757.JPG

BELOW: The MPX unit was reinstalled, and the Voltage Dropping Modification installed to allow proper operating voltages for V100 and V102. The S/M Threshold adjustment resistor can also be seen in this shot directly above the new 33 uF 450 volt VD decoupling cap.
SAM_2751.JPG

BELOW: The Radio Detector electrolytic cap was replaced also.
SAM_2759.JPG

BELOW: Since the FM dial was more than 1 mHz off of the received frequency, the tuner section was in sore need of an alignment, as was the MPX section. With early version 400 receivers, a really precise alignment is necessary since these units possess less gain and (therefore) limiting action than later four tube IF versions (which are much more tolerant of less than ideal adjustments). A precise alignment then is necessary for the three tube IF design to maximize the sensitivity and limiting action of which it is capable. Of all of Fisher's Wide Band FM Stereo MPX receivers however, early version 400 units do not employ any AVC for the RF or IF sections of the tuner. This aids in maximizes sensitivity and limiting, but also makes for a very hot signal from the Ratio Detector stage with strong signals. With such a hot signal, it can overload V100 in the MPX section when using Russian manufactured tubes in this position. Therefore, while always a good idea, it is mandatory to use good American pieces in this position in early 400 receivers to prevent the overloading caused when Russian tubes are installed. With the MPX repairs, new tubes, full alignment, and modification work all finished up, the receiver is shown receiving WSRV 97.1 out of Atlanta (transmitting tower some 55+ miles away) with a steady eye tube and superb stereo, using nothing but a simple dipole antenna in my basement (underground) lab.
SAM_2704.JPG

BELOW: Topside, new can caps were installed. Under the old black cardboard cover is a new 50-50-50-50uF @350volt can with all sections wired in parallel to effect an upgrade over the old 100 uF @250 volt can originally occupying that space. The same can is used in the front most position as well to effect the original 200 uF @250 volt can that used to reside there. The two 50 uF 250 volt sections are replaced with discrete caps mounted under the chassis. Also, in this particular unit, all 5 of the tuner section tubes were replaced with new tubes from Jim McShane.
SAM_2705.JPG

BELOW: Underside, the usual output stage work was done: precision 10Ω cathode current sampling resistors are installed, as are 100Ω Screen Stability resistors. Pin 8 is used as a new Screen Buss to facilitate the Stability resistors. Note too the disappearance of the 220Ω heater balancing resistors normally seen in this location -- this since they have been relocated over to the left channel phase inverter area, where they will receive (the new) heater bias voltage made available from the phase inverter modification. Finally, the gray lead entering near the top of the pic from the right side contains the four leads that provide the individual bias control from the IBAM installed. The original T-Strips provided for the bias connections are still used for two of the tubes, while the other two are connected inside a fully sleeved cover.
SAM_2747.JPG

BELOW: The Noose Removal (Phase Inverter Modification) has been installed, with new heater balancing resistors provided that connect the heater bias point in the left channel. The input for these stages is from the blk-wht and wht-blk shielded leads running across and just above center of the pic. These leads come from the new Power Amp In jacks -- opposite from where the signal leads used to come from (volume control). Note the small shield fabricated at the input T-Strip for the left channel -- this to eliminate a slight hum with an open input from the heater wires that run right by the Strip.
SAM_2750.JPG

BELOW: Under the Phase Inverter Adjustment controls lie the 47 uF 100 volt caps that are part of the Phase Inverter Modification.
SAM_2758.JPG

Next time, the Standard Restoration and Basic Modification Package gets finished up, and the Optional Modifications get covered.

Dave
 
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BELOW: Next, the small circuit board was build containing the EFB Screen Grid Regulator, EFB Control Grid Regulator, and IBAM control pots. Also prepared was the power Mosfet used in the EFB SG Regulator.
SAM_2721.JPG

BELOW: Also, the Buffer Amplifier was built as well.
SAM_2722.JPG

BELOW: In the power supply area, the selenium was changed out for silicon, and the new filter caps secured to the side wall. Also power Mosfet is secured to the side wall as well to provide a measure of heat sinking. This leaves enough room for the new EFB board to be mounted where the old DC Heater/Bias supply can cap was, which is securely mounted between the two original T-Strips located there.
SAM_2748.JPG

BELOW: The EFB Board itself is self contained, with the bias adjustments aligned with the tube sockets they serve. Also seen are the new HV power supply diodes, AC bypass caps, and CL-80 current limiter.
SAM_2761.JPG

BELOW: Over at the front mounted can cap area, the 25Ω 5 Watt speaker off load resistors have been removed and reinstalled stacked one on top of the other against the T-Strip they connect to to make room for the new Buffer Amplifier Board. The two 47 uF 350 volt caps replace the two similar components in the original can cap used in this location. The 1000 uF cap is part of the Buffer Amplifier power supply, while the 1000Ω filter resistor and reverse discharge prevention diode are contained within the gray covered lead connected to the 1000 uF cap lead. The input leads can clearly be seen, as can the individually shielded red and green output leads within the gray cable that works its way over to the reverb jacks to effect the new Preamp Output jacks.
SAM_2749.JPG

BELOW: A look up in under the 1000 uF cap showing the other 330Ω dropping resistor used in the tuner power supply.
SAM_2769.JPG

BELOW: The headphone channel identity issue is corrected by reversing the connection of these two 330Ω resistors to the headphone jack.
SAM_2766.JPG

BELOW: The Tape Monitor switch is electrically moved so that it appears at the same signal level as the Input Selector switch, and therefore has the same sensitivity as that of the Aux input. Also seen at pin 2 (white wire) and pin 7 (bare wire), are the leads that short out (replace) the .001 uF caps normally appearing at this point that make up the permanent LF filer circuits.
SAM_2753.JPG

BELOW: Over in the jack area, the reverb jacks have been rewired for their re-purposed applications, the Aux/Tape Monitor bleed components have been removed to separate those two inputs, and the ground circuit for the Tape Head jacks have been disconnected from the ground circuits of the phono preamp stages, and grounded now to the high level input jacks -- this because these jacks are now high level input jacks.
SAM_2756.JPG

BELOW: Over in the phono preamp area, in addition to new output mylar coupling caps, new mylar inter-stage coupling caps are installed, and the phono preamps are permanently wired for RIAA equalization -- necessary when the Tape Head input jacks are converted to high level jacks. Also, wiring that directly connects the signal from the phono jacks to the phono preamps can be seen as well. With these changes, the input switching network (originally switching between the phono and Tape Head input jacks) can then be used to switch either the output of the phono preamps or the new high level Tape Head input jacks into the line level input stage as desired. This approach also allows the Tape Head inputs to be shorted out as customary to prevent crosstalk when not selected, as Fisher always provided for.
SAM_2760.JPG

Last up, some detail shots of the Input Selector switch as modified to permit the Tape Head Inputs to operate as high level inputs.

Dave
 
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BELOW: Right channel shown. With the RIAA EQ permanently selected, the 82K phono preamp output isolation resistor is now removed from the Input selector switch, and hardwired directly to the output of the phono preamp. The output of the resistor now connects to the old phono jack terminal as can be seen. The white lead connecting the rear deck to the middle deck takes the selected output of the rear deck (output of phono preamp or new high level Tape Head input jacks) and connects it to where the output of the 82K resistor originally connected to. The cleaned up unused terminals are what used to toggle between RIAA and Tape Head EQ networks.
SAM_2755.JPG

BELOW: Left Channel shown. The 82K phono preamp output isolation resistor is also removed from the Input Selector switch, connected directly to the output of the phono preamp, dressed close to the chassis, and now connected to the old phono jack terminal as with the right channel. The blue lead running under the Input Selector switch is the output of the rear wafer selecting between the output of the phono preamp, or the new high level Tape Head inputs. Unused terminals originally toggled the left channel EQ settings. Finally, the ground terminals on the rear wafer that used to connect to the isolated phono preamp grounds in each channel, now connect to chassis ground.
SAM_2754.JPG

BELOW: Finished receiver ready for return shipment.
SAM_2746.JPG

Probably the only other modification that can be looked at is correcting the de-emphasis network for the FM Mono signal. This can be done, but ends up in being more of a technical correction than an actual correction. Again, the ceramic cap used as part of the RC network to provide the required roll-off is invariably low enough in value, that removing it and installing a technically correct value, typically results in virtually no audible change at all, or may actually hurt performance. That modification can be included if so desired by reducing the value of of the existing network cap from .0018 pF to .0016 pF. But again, be careful. The value of the network resistor figures into the results as well. The ceramic cap in this unit measured 1680 pF (low, but well in spec), while the network resistor measured 45.1KΩ (also in spec), resulting in a de-emphasis of 75.77 µS. In this case then, correcting the installed cap to a technically correct value would actually degrade performance.

Happy Listening!

Dave
 
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Wow, Dave. Talk about putting things in a nutshell. I wish I had seen this thread sooner, it would have organized my though processes and answered many of my questions. And I thoroughly appreciate your explanation of why your own later version unit has not been recapped. It is so incredibly simple and after thinking about it, I wonder why it wasn’t more obvious to me.

As I said in the last post this project, for me, is intended to be a hands on experiment of sorts to allow me to practice my skills and redevelop my knowledge level, much of which was forgotten over time, due to my career change to electrical contracting early in life. So the basics, like ohms and kirkoffs laws and basic electron theory was used a lot. But the specific knowledge as it applies to vacuum tubes and receiver alignment and such has long been removed from memory.

Let me be clear- I am not an audiophile.At 68, and although I wear hearing aids, I still sometimes use closed captioning when watching tv and my most used phrase with the wife is”honey, please repeat that”. So, for me to make all the sophisticated mods in my receiver for myself would be wasted motion. So the question I need to answer is, how far do I go and what do I intend to do with the project when it’s complete? Heck, I don’t even have a listening room, nor do I have a respectable set of speakers. The closest I come is a 5+1 home theatre system which I use for normal tv viewing. It just occurred to me that these receivers deserve more than to be restored/improved and then sit on a shelf. I think that would be sacrilegious.

Pardon me while I ponder this fork in the road...............

Bob
 
I've performed several of these mods on my 500-C and KX-200 (and a Scott 299). Dave's threads (and Larry's and others') have always been inspiring. I'm still looking for some good courses to learn more. I've contacted colleges too, but they want full matriculation (already have a Comp Sci BA thank you). I've watched many videos. I'd really like to learn how to troubleshoot better so I can identify weak spots in the circuitry, or be able to understand designs so I can maybe improve on/"play with" them. Now that I'm finally (involuntarily) retired (as of Nov 2019), I have fantasies about a DMM and schematic with a good cup of coffee (far away from the circuitry! Haha). Thorne
 
Bob; Welcome to the Fisher forum....otherwise known to some as the Nuthouse! While the mods for the 400 are for the most part are sophisticated and a bit complex for someone with minimal to NO knowledge of electronics(you should have little to no problems), 90% are reliability and safety mods, in that the unit will run as FISHER SHOULD HAVE designed and built, had they been a no holds barred, no expence spared line of audio gear. I did my 1st 400 about 10 years ago, sold it 8 yrs ago and kicked myself for a few more years (it was an early version). Since then I have gotten 2 more (and rebuilt more than a few for others) and both have the reliability and safety mods, but lack EFB, pre to amp buffer, (you know, the fluff). I'm for the most part, self taught (Dad was the E.T. in the family) I'm just an old broke down former NAVY corpsman,EMT, Federal L.E.O. Years of sirens in my ears on the road have shot my hearing to the point I have a -60db drop from 12kHz on up (technically deaf in high registers). Just adjust the tone controls to suit you and enjoy the hell out of it. You might get better response with over the ear headsets. but 99% come with a 1/8" plug. Either get a 1/8" to 1/4" adapter or a 1/4" stereo plug and re-plug it.

Remember the only DUMB QUESTION HERE is the one NOT ASKED.

Fee Schedule for Answers
Simple Answers......................$1.00
Answers requiring thought......$2.00
Correct Answers.....................$4.00

DUMB LOOKS,"D'OH's", un-restrained laughter and pointing(we've all BTDT)......STILL FREE

Have fun, and enjoy your 400.

Larry
 
Bob; Welcome to the Fisher forum....otherwise known to some as the Nuthouse! While the mods for the 400 are for the most part are sophisticated and a bit complex for someone with minimal to NO knowledge of electronics(you should have little to no problems), 90% are reliability and safety mods, in that the unit will run as FISHER SHOULD HAVE designed and built, had they been a no holds barred, no expence spared line of audio gear. I did my 1st 400 about 10 years ago, sold it 8 yrs ago and kicked myself for a few more years (it was an early version). Since then I have gotten 2 more (and rebuilt more than a few for others) and both have the reliability and safety mods, but lack EFB, pre to amp buffer, (you know, the fluff). I'm for the most part, self taught (Dad was the E.T. in the family) I'm just an old broke down former NAVY corpsman,EMT, Federal L.E.O. Years of sirens in my ears on the road have shot my hearing to the point I have a -60db drop from 12kHz on up (technically deaf in high registers). Just adjust the tone controls to suit you and enjoy the hell out of it. You might get better response with over the ear headsets. but 99% come with a 1/8" plug. Either get a 1/8" to 1/4" adapter or a 1/4" stereo plug and re-plug it.

Remember the only DUMB QUESTION HERE is the one NOT ASKED.

Fee Schedule for Answers
Simple Answers......................$1.00
Answers requiring thought......$2.00
Correct Answers.....................$4.00

DUMB LOOKS,"D'OH's", un-restrained laughter and pointing(we've all BTDT)......STILL FREE

Have fun, and enjoy your 400.

Larry[/QU
 
I wouldn’t recommend cutting the 1/8 plugs off most of today’s headsets. I had one where the plug was intermittent from yanking on it too much so I decided I would replace it. Well, the friggin wires are so thin and flimsy I couldn’t for the life of me solder them to a new plug. All I did was melt the insulation and I think the wires too. So the headset is sitting on my shelf with no plug. I don’t know if anyone has a proper fix for something that should be so simple.

Regarding the problems with the 400 due to line voltages that are higher than fisher knew they would ever be why cant we recalculate the internodal resistors in the power supply rails to get the voltages down to where they should be, or at least a lot closer. That’s what fisher would have done when they designed it, right?
 
It becomes far easier to adjust the AC line voltage via a bucking transformer arrangement, or variac. You want to start with the heaters operating at the correct voltage first. Measure the voltage at the heater pins of the output tube furthest from the power transformer. Ideally, this should be 6.3 vac +5/-0%. When that is correct, the other voltages are then generally correct as well. The design center for the primary winding for most Fisher receivers is 116 vac.

Dave
 
I wouldn’t recommend cutting the 1/8 plugs off most of today’s headsets. I had one where the plug was intermittent from yanking on it too much so I decided I would replace it. Well, the friggin wires are so thin and flimsy I couldn’t for the life of me solder them to a new plug. All I did was melt the insulation and I think the wires too. So the headset is sitting on my shelf with no plug. I don’t know if anyone has a proper fix for something that should be so simple.
.....

Get a set of Koss Porta Pro. These have surprisingly good bass response and the top end goes to 25 kHz. No, I can't hear that, but I could see it on a scope with a microphone in front of the phones. Anyway, these have an unconditional LIFETIME warranty. They would have probably sent you a complete new headset in exchange for yours with a bad plug.
 
I see your point, Dave, if this was going to sit on my shelf and I have the room for a bucking transformer on the shelf. But if the unit ends up on someone else’s shelf who may not want to have to deal with the additional cost, heat and space considerations of such a setup, wouldn’t it be nice if the problem was solved internally? Do you know of any technical reason this wouldn’t work if done correctly?
 
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