About to overhaul my Dual 1226 and have a few questions

[mhjmhjones]

Hello and thanks in advance for helping me!

I will be soon overhauling my 1226. I've already replaced the steuerpimple. But I'm still having issues.

1. When I have antiskating set to what I think should be the proper value (same as the tracking force, according to my manual), the tonearm wants to drift to the right when dropping, sometimes even missing the record. If I adjust the antiskating a bit, the stylus will drop properly, but the value isn't the same as the tracking force - I'm not sure is that a problem? Sometimes, when the stylus hits the record, it abruptly jumps to the left into the grooves, making an unpleasant sound. I'm sure that can't be good for my stylus or the record. Any ideas on these issues?

2. When using the auto start, the audio out signal (sorry I do not know the correct jargon here) does not turn on as soon as it should. That is, the stylus will already be in the grooves when something clicks inside, the audio turns on and the start/stop lever shifts back to neutral. I have a feeling something needs cleaning/lubricating - but what?

3. Speaking of lubricants, I asked this in a separate thread, but does anyone know a substitute for Shell Alvania #2 / Gadus S2 V220 AC2 that is readily available in the US? I'd prefer not to spend $50 on lubricants.

4. It seems the idler wheel isn't making great contact with the platter. If I apply my carbon brush to a record, it causes the platter to slow significantly. If I don't use the table for a while, it can take a fairly long time or some manual help to get the platter spinning. Any ideas?

5. Lastly, my 1226 didn't come with a ground cable. I do get a lot of static on records. I use a Japanese anti-static paper mat on the platter. Would you advise to add a ground cable? I read somewhere to attach the ground to the metal chassis. Would this improve the static problem?

Thanks again for your help!

 

[NoTransistors]

On Dual turntables that drift upon decent of arm, I replace the second pimple [on the lift pin] with a softer, grippier cap.
Anti-skate calibration is sort of higher than needed on these turntables to prevent the needle from sliding through the dished-rim when it first drops onto the record.
Your idler wheel needs to be dressed by sanding off the dry rubber. Hold a piece of sand paper against the wheel while it is rotating. It should clean up nicely. Never use rubber renewal products.
Also, there are at least three pivot points that must have dried-out grease. Ease them up, and the wheel will make better contact.
Clean the contact area on platter.
No ground wire does not mean no ground. Just means that you have a model designated for a different market area. Do not add another ground, as this will cause hum.
Engine oil on the motor and platter and idler [axle]. Lithium grease on mechanism [very little]. Nothing to very little on gear [it migrates and screws up end-of-record trigger]. New damping paste only if the previous owner contaminated it with WD-40.

 

[stereofisher]

^^^ the above is standard operation procedure. Clean out the forty year old grease and regrease it. Make sure the levers--start and speed selectors are free, move easily. Lightly sand the idler wheel. You should disassemble the motor, clean and oil it. Check the condition of your stylus. Just replaced the stylus on a customer's 1219. It sounded good at the beginning and lousy at the end of the record. The Pickering XV-15 sounded great with a new stylus. Good luck.

Eric

 

[mhjmhjones]

On Dual turntables that drift upon decent of arm, I replace the second pimple [on the lift pin] with a softer, grippier cap.
Anti-skate calibration is sort of higher than needed on these turntables to prevent the needle from sliding through the dished-rim when it first drops onto the record.
Your idler wheel needs to be dressed by sanding off the dry rubber. Hold a piece of sand paper against the wheel while it is rotating. It should clean up nicely. Never use rubber renewal products.
Also, there are at least three pivot points that must have dried-out grease. Ease them up, and the wheel will make better contact.
Clean the contact area on platter.
No ground wire does not mean no ground. Just means that you have a model designated for a different market area. Do not add another ground, as this will cause hum.
Engine oil on the motor and platter and idler [axle]. Lithium grease on mechanism [very little]. Nothing to very little on gear [it migrates and screws up end-of-record trigger]. New damping paste only if the previous owner contaminated it with WD-40.

So, I can use lithium grease instead of the Shell Alvania #2 / Gadus S2 V220 AC2? Have you had success with that? Thanks for the reply.

 

[NoTransistors]

Excuse me if this is from before your time.

"BrylCreem, a little dab will do ya."