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Accuphase E-202 Help!

I'd be looking at tracks on your problem board under a magnifying glass next, ie: any solder join that moves under movement or any hairline cracks in a crack on that board.

If it was my board I'd be reflowing that whole board.
 
It's pretty unlikely someone is going to dismantle their E-202 and send you the board- just being honest.:)

Your best bet is to find a tech locally as it may not be the board per-se, it may be the socket and/or the way the socket is soldered to its board or components/tracks around it.

Maybe put out a call to find a trusted AKer in NY?
 
restorer-john said:
It's pretty unlikely someone is going to dismantle their E-202 and send you the board- just being honest.:)

Your best bet is to find a tech locally as it may not be the board per-se, it may be the socket and/or the way the socket is soldered to its board or components/tracks around it.

Maybe put out a call to find a trusted AKer in NY?
Click to expand...

I had a bit of a EUREKA moment last night! I think the problem is not with the smaller board, but the solder joints in the receiving/chassis board. I took the tone amp assembly board completely out and was using the plastic butt end of a screwdriver to tap around the board as I had music playing and I was getting intermittent sound out of the left channel. I just need to isolate which solder joint is cold (or it could be a track, but I didn't see any cracks) and reflow the solder. I'll keep you all updated, thanks for all your help :)
 
Went exploring and found out that the "Power Supply Assembly" looks like someone went ahead and performed a full Frankenstein mod on it... I suspect that this is the issue, considering the burnt PCB, random capacitors on the backside, and the handful of resistors that look completely toasted... Please advise? haha

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The female connectors on the cards are the same as what the Technics SA-1000 uses. What happens is the metal contact in the socket breaks/cracks at the tight bend due to corrosion. You can see it. I was able to remove the connector and use a spare metal connector from an unused pin/socket. You have to desolder the plastic Molex connector and you should see whats up.
I hope this is the issue.
 
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I have a similar problem in my e-202. When I power-on the unit with speaker selection at off position, right-channel power level meter indicator jumps to the end. I would like to hear any troubleshooting tips. I'm planning to do the following,
1- Set DC offset
2- Set bias
3- Re evaluate
If unsuccessful, do following
4- Go through driver board 710-0002-00
5- Reflow the solder
6- Check & replace Q1,Q2 & Q3; set bias
7- Reevaluate

Thanks...
 
Mine I had to replace the relay. The symptom was channel dropping out at low volume or have to turn up the volume to get both channels to come on. Just my opinion, nice amp, preamp could be better. If you get a chance, run just the amp with a tube preamp.
 
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