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Acoustic Research AR3a tweeter ID

Jbmorrey

Active Member
hello everyone, so I just came across a pair of Acoustic Research AR3a that seem to have had the tweeter replaced. Can anyone ID this tweeter and tell me what it might be? I hoping this is a decent replacement to the original and wanted some input. Pics below, any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
James


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If that is how it's screwed on I would say regardless of what brand it would not be a decent replacement.

If you can remove it hopefully there is some identifiers on the back of the tweet that might help in ascertaining ID
 
Has a later Peerless look, but I don't know if it's a good fit (pun intended) or if its a good tweeter.
 
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Think I will just have to unscrew it to get a better look at it. You know the rest of the speaker is pretty darn close to mint, Woofers look great and Mid looks good as well, the light scratches on the cabinet were easily fixed with some steel wool and restore-a-finish.
 
Get that thing out of there and either a) find an OEM replacement on ebay or b) go with the HiVi solution (both cabinets). While I used to be more of a purist about the classic AR speakers, I've found that I like the HiVi tweeters at least as much as the originals....and the price is right.
 
Well, here is the answer…. Realistic ! Is the “cap” supposed to be added in? In other words if I replace the tweeter, would I just have to install it or would I have to trace back to the actual crossover to find out why the cap is there? I am not mechanically inclined and really don’t know what I am looking at here. Is the fact that it is made in Japan, a good thing or is it still just a cheap tweeter?

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Get that thing out of there and either a) find an OEM replacement on ebay or b) go with the HiVi solution (both cabinets). While I used to be more of a purist about the classic AR speakers, I've found that I like the HiVi tweeters at least as much as the originals....and the price is right.

thanks for the suggestion, is there a particular HiVi you recommend?
 
... Is the fact that it is made in Japan, a good thing or is it still just a cheap tweeter?

It's irrelevant, not bashing Japan or Realistic but it was not meant for those iconic speakers.

@spark1 suggestions are the way to go, as for the crossover and that cap you can deal with that once you get the correct replacement tweet.

Plenty of how to threads here when it comes to crossover rebuild/restore etc
 
It's irrelevant, not bashing Japan or Realistic but it was not meant for those iconic speakers.

@spark1 suggestions are the way to go, as for the crossover and that cap you can deal with that once you get the correct replacement tweet.

Plenty of how to threads here when it comes to crossover rebuild/restore etc

any idea as to keeping the small black “cap” or whatever that is in line if I get the HiVi tweeter? What is the purpose of it? I am not confident enough to to take apart a crossover or even know what I am looking at if I looked at it, would prefer to buy the two tweeters and just hook them up if this is possible.
 
any idea as to keeping the small black “cap” or whatever that is in line if I get the HiVi tweeter? What is the purpose of it? I am not confident enough to to take apart a crossover or even know what I am looking at if I looked at it, would prefer to buy the two tweeters and just hook them up if this is possible.

Not possible.

Even if you opt to find an original tweeter on ebay, you will need to verify that crossover is in original configuration.

If you go the HiVi route, you would need to do the same, put an inductor across the tweeters, and optionally add a capacitor.

AR3a is not a set it and forget it speaker, unless already restored.
 
.. I am not confident enough to to take apart a crossover or even know what I am looking at if I looked at it....

I don't know how much you have invested so far in the speakers but you might want to have them looked at by a tech as they are worth it.
 
Not possible.

Even if you opt to find an original tweeter on ebay, you will need to verify that crossover is in original configuration.

If you go the HiVi route, you would need to do the same, put an inductor across the tweeters, and optionally add a capacitor.

AR3a is not a set it and forget it speaker, unless already restored.

I guess I am confused, if this speaker is working fine with the realistic tweeter, why couldn’t I add the HiVi tweeter in it place without any mods, or does each tweeter require a different crossover setup? I’ve replaced a bass speaker on a pair of realistic Mach Ones and it was just a matter of removing and replacing, no need to change caps or alter crossover.
 
I strongly suggest replacing those with correct tweeters for the 3a. The HiVis are a great replacement if you can’t find originals, but show up on fleabay pretty regularly. Chris1this1 rebuilds them to factory specs as well. He does excellent work and they sound great.
 
I guess I am confused, if this speaker is working fine with the realistic tweeter, why couldn’t I add the HiVi tweeter in it place without any mods, or does each tweeter require a different crossover setup? I’ve replaced a bass speaker on a pair of realistic Mach Ones and it was just a matter of removing and replacing, no need to change caps or alter crossover.
The HiVis will require crossover mods to sound close to the original tweeters. That cap on the Realistic tweeter is useless.
 
GD70 recommends original correct AR3a tweeters and I agree. It is in my opinion worth spending the money on correct tweeters as it will maintain the value of your AR3a's while retaining the original sound. Chris1this1 sells rebuilt tweeters. RoyC on here and classic speaker pages also rebuilds them if you find a pair needing a rebuild., Most AR3a tweeters do do need to be rebuilt by now according to the experts. If you have the $: https://www.ebay.com/itm/194767893065?hash=item2d59123249:g:9EgAAOSwgINh8CxT
 
Well, here is the answer…. Realistic !
Radio Shack sold that tweeter for more than 20 years. Yours is probably from June of either 1979 or 1989. Those built in '99 are less likely to have been sourced from Japan.

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There are at least a couple of potential issues with using it for AR 3a. The first being this tweeter's claimed effective range starts at 6kHz. AR 3a's tweeter is crossed over at 5kHz. The second is that's it's rated at 8Ω v.s. 4Ω for the original. Which could explain that added capacitor as a crossover mod attempt to address impedance difference. If that capacitor is not 6µF then it's not the original. And it wouldn't be connected directly to the tweeter anyway.

The stock capacitor location within the circuit is shown in this schematic from the Classic Speaker Pages.

AR 3a xover.jpg

Looks like you have a nice set of 3a's. They deserve whatever level of attention you're inclined to offer them.
 
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