Sure wish i knew, but i dont have enough xover understanding. Based solely on my personal use of Pioneer SF series, pro setups with actives, and the ADS c-2000 i figure the mod MAY be based on resistor changes.
No, haven't been able to find them again by searching Molex. They do have the wire leads already on them, called Pigtails perhaps, so searched "6 pin Molex wirh pigtail" with no luck. Nice wide spades make great contact, came pre-assembled see pic I've uploaded.
Something like this would be a viable alternative, though accepts 18g max. Mine were different as can be seen, and 16gauge. I've seen some also similar to the orig, but wouldn't use something that failed to begin with. Not a huge fan of form over function. These would fit the bill, and lots of contact surface. May find the part number, and see associated results based on that search, to find ones with pigtails installed already. With options being many, the idea itself is simple, and above all, reliable. I am not affiliated with OR, simply illustrating similar hardware used to repair speaker of topic, the 910. If you think yours work well it you fiddle with the wire, or they cut out if you TOUCH the wire, then do yourself this justice, and the 910 a solid, and apply this mod.
That right John, thank you so much. I thought I had seen that factory bullet at some point, but couldn't quite recall. Couldn't find it a while back either when I looked. Much appreciated indeed.
Can you post a link for the ones you used and found again please?
C 38 and 39 removed, and double secured inside the unit. Notation made of 1590 mod , location and orientation of caps inside as well.
That's the one . Fits tight, makes great surface contact, and them connections are known as "standard" and will always be avail should any one in particular need replaced.
Great. I've got it in my watch list on fleabay. I may grab them just as backups. I fixed my originals, first with a Deoxit bath, then tightening all the contacts in the plugs and have had no issues in the last year and a half.
I send mine without reservation. Cones, crossovers, domes done it all. The dried ferrofluid chief among them even when domes are clean. While this is readily avail, pretty sure the plates need aligned lightly. To use a time genorator and align for maximum spl would likely be to crude a method. The thickness of this coating is a crutial component to the dome mid ADS signature sound. What I've proposed in cleaning is rudimentary and in no way a substitute for reconstruction by Richard due to the fluid, or other age related damage. Such as coil overheating due to dry or parrially dry fluid.That said, this is why I will measure spl of a stock driver, and reconditioned driver.
Me as well. The ones I tightened up 10 years ago took quite a while to show signs. If i left them alone! I'm always messing with them though. If the wire it touched slightly, and anything flakes, then I redo. Even though the driver functions, in not sure just how well the origional stretched contacts actually grab. Don't think they are actually considered a mechanical contact. Chapman solders all of his, as well as other manufactures. Stiff firm full surface plugs seem better (but maybe arent) than a plug that makes a small portion of contact, and doing so weakly. I might be wrong however. Swore I heard a marked improvement, likely placebo. Sure did remove any and all questions though