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ADS-910's

125 ... dollars .. .. that is crazy good .. it would make sense if those were 125 like actually silver dollars .. from 1955 or something /....

GREAT thread nice pics! Cant wait to see the emblems after the buffing
 
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125 ... dollars .. .. that is crazy good .. it would make sense if those were 125 like actually silver dollars .. from 1955 or something /....

GREAT thread nice pics! Cant wait to see the emblems after the buffing

One of my best speaker scores I must say! It's still settling in what I have here.

Glenn
 




Mine are hooked up differently. This was the hook up I was told to use were I purchased them last year.
Mike

Hey Mike,

I noticed your cross overs have two caps where mine have one. Did you recap them or are yours a later model?

Glenn
 
It looks like someone made a non-polar capacitor with two polar types in series. An original cap would be a single and look like yours.

Hey Mike,

I noticed your cross overs have two caps where mine have one. Did you recap them or are yours a later model?

Glenn
 
You hit the nail on the head GT - my buddy has a pair of these and his thing is later 70s - early 80s hard rock. The 910s are just amazing with that stuff. We cranked "Never Been Any Reason" by Head East and jaws were dropping! :music:

Yeah, I figured. They have the right voicing for it. That solid, punchy bass must fill all the spaces just right. W90's are great with it, but it could be a lot better for sure. That stuff has a real forward upper midrange that clashes a bit with the stout mids of the Wharfies, which I think are a bit stouter than ADS mids, especially when you consider that Wharfedale bass really isn't a forward, extra-kick sort of thing, which that music needs to sound it's best (And the ADS bass is, at least in comparison to those old Wharfedales. (HPM100's are great speakers for late '70's/early '80's metal, and I bet the vintage AR's do alright with it too).

Now, if we were talking about EARLY '70's metal/hard rock, that would be different. Wharfedales do that just fine.

I think I know what I want my next speakers to be, but I'm gonna' keep this one to myself for a bit. My interest is peaked though. Something to counter my W90's. The yin to it's yang, so to speak. :smoke:

Geez, I wonder how Bob Seger's "Against The Wind" sounds through 910's... (I was playing that earlier... That one's not bad at all through mine, but I bet the 910's punch it up just right... I know this recording well... My brother had the LP, I had the cassette, and now I have the old non-remastered CD, which is basically mastered like the cassette... AAD for sure).
 
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Badges restored

They came out pretty good! I'll see if I have time to re-glue them to the cabs tonight.

Glenn

 
Bravoooooooooo!!! I will be stealing this idea my lables were all the worse for wear! so i buffed them now they are all gold but .. i like what you did .. how did you buff the relief only
 
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Bravoooooooooo!!! I will be stealing this idea my lables were all the worse for wear! so i buffed them now they are all gold but .. i like what you did .. how did you buff the relief only

Thanks!

I slid them back & forth on 600 grit wet/dry sand paper on a flat surface. I did them dry. The badges are pot metal which is fairly soft so it polishes easily.
 
Badges really turned out great, Glenn

:thmbsp:
They'll look even better on the cabs!
Next will be tackling the one grill, seeing what I can do with all the pulls from the PO's cat!:thumbsdn:

BTW, any sources for original grill fabric?

Glenn
 
What will you use for reattachment of the badges? Just curious. I think I should probably make a cast of my one badge before something happens to it and I don't have any badges.
Keep up the good work.
John
 
What will you use for reattachment of the badges? Just curious. I think I should probably make a cast of my one badge before something happens to it and I don't have any badges.
Keep up the good work.
John

Hi John,

I've been thinking about that. First I was thinking tite bond wood glue, then a very thin dab of clear silicone, then a small dab of epoxy. Oh and possibly Aileens tacky glue. Still thinking about it.

The cast idea is a good one, just in case.

Glenn
 
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Glenn, I have used Aleene's glue for gluing on emblems many times with good results. When preparing the back of the badges I will usually sand them lightly with 220 grit to roughen them up some and then clean with alcohol or glass cleaner prior to gluing. When applying the glue to the back place a light bead of glue about 1/4" from the entire edge, and some in the middle if needed, so it does not go past the edge of the badge when attached. I would lay them flat and let them sit overnight before put into use.
 
Glenn, I have used Aleene's glue for gluing on emblems many times with good results. When preparing the back of the badges I will usually sand them lightly with 220 grit to roughen them up some and then clean with alcohol or glass cleaner prior to gluing. When applying the glue to the back place a light bead of glue about 1/4" from the entire edge, and some in the middle if needed, so it does not go past the edge of the badge when attached. I would lay them flat and let them sit overnight before put into use.

You read my mind!,or great minds think alike!
Pics to come when done!

Glenn
 
These may be on their way to me tomorrow! The Pics speak for themselves!

Just waiting for the shipping cost to send payment.

HOLY SHEIT!!!

910-Bi-Amp cards_zpsmvfzjrbp.PNG 910-LED cards_zpstvvgesdr.PNG 910-Tri-Amp cards_zps50nxpthv.PNG
 
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