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After speaker recap. Problem?

Old Guy8

Old Guy8

Cliff & Cleo
Subscriber
Just recapped a pair of Ohm C2 speaker crossovers. Used Dayton bi-polar caps. Assured by Parts Express tech that Daytons are. I've done one other set of speakers before. This time I checked both speakers at the binding posts for continuity with multimeter. Open circuits. Meter is working. Have checked other speakers, and get readings. Have not wired speakers to an amp. Do I have a problem? Don't think I changed the circuit. Just replaced two caps. I don't know how caps function. Do they need current to close the circuit? Don't want to open up cabinets. Do you think safe to wire to amp.
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Looks like their shorted. There should be something.
 
What is the ohm range set for on the meter. A picture would help. Both speakers bad(not likely) but could be the new caps!
 
Seems strange to me, both reading the same way. Both shorted. Guess I open back up and do some checking. Could The caps be heat damages from soldering?
 
The meter is auto sensing. Auto rangeing.I used to work for Greenlee. Meter is covering posts. Reads same farther away from posts.20160805_144525.jpg
 
I think it is showing an open circit on binding posts.
Both speakers were working fine prior to recap. Have not tried after recap.
 
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It is definitely showing an open circuit on both speakers-do not hook them up till you reopen them and check your wiring again.
 
speakers are working, but I have a mystery, at least to me!
thanks for help.
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teal'c said:
Whatrecaping problem?
Click to expand...
Problem was I know nothing about capacitors. There was no problem.After recaping speakers I had no continuity across the binding posts. I thought it might be a problem until I checked continuity of old caps I took out, which also showed no continuity. Tooka while to sink in there was no problem. Maybe caps loose continuity if have not been used for while?
 
I'm wondering what you're reading for dc resistance across the speaker connectors? I try to take a reading before and after a speaker recap. I know it's not the most accurate measurement but it will let you know if something isn't wired properly.
 
I did not check before recap. It was this check after, that lead me to believe I had a problem. Did not expect an open circuit. In end speakers seem to be working. But can't understand no ohm reading aacross binding posts.
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I'm not familiar with your meter, but the icon in the lower right suggests audible response which means continuity check on the meters I have. The continuity check usually doesn't indicate any reading if the measurement is over a few ohms. Make sure you are set to read ohms, not continuity.
 
Ttech said:
I'm not familiar with your meter, but the icon in the lower right suggests audible response which means continuity check on the meters I have. The continuity check usually doesn't indicate any reading if the measurement is over a few ohms. Make sure you are set to read ohms, not continuity.
Click to expand...
The Greenlee meter only has on/off button. Totally auto sensing. Still get no ohms or continuity.
To eliminate any confusion, I got my other manual meter. Set it to ohms. Adjusted needle to zero, when shorted leads. No reaction on speaker binding posts, either speaker, since recap. This is mystery to me!!! Why? Any idea? Before the recap these speakers gave an ohm reading of a few ohms. All other speakers I have checked have done same. Guess will pull apart again.20160807_092318.jpg
 
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HI! A large-capacity capacitor is connected in series with the woofer in this moment!. Usually it is instead connected in parallel! Are you sure you have not missed the connection?This connection causes the reading of infinite resistance ohmmeter with direct current. The music signal through the condenser, while the instrument continues current can not pass through. Greetings from Italy!
 
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It's extremely unusual to find a capacitor in series with the woofer in commodity speaker systems like this. Just as a point of reference, you would need 663uF in series with six ohms to achieve frequency response of -3dB at 40Hz, assuming the woofer isn't reactive and has no acoustic loss at that frequency. If there are no caps anywhere near that large in the circuit, then it's fair to suspect trouble.
 
Sorry, At a loss to understand cizeta or binary comments. Not electrician. Speakers seem to be working. I did not disassemble again. Just hooked to amp, and seem to sound fine in any of three tweeter settings.
 
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Well, to boil it down, the lack of DC continuity is most probably a trouble indication. You were right to check this, but I suspect you will need some local assistance to isolate the cause.
 
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