AK Design Collaborative - Insignia-Class Economy Speakers (a.k.a Indignia)
- Thread starter Zilch
- Start date
Don, you shouldn't eat the MDF or the oak.
That's right. You should mix the dust in with your chocolate milk in the morning for a little fiber.
Beautiful wood work. Can't wait to see them finished. I am super downsizing and have thought long and hard about building the Indignias for my main speakers to sit on top of my tallish subs, but in the end I decided to pick up a pair of Behringer 2030As. Just couldn't beat the price.
I'm always amazed at the craftsmen on this site, and the quality of work they're capable of doing.
Nice job!!
Nice job!!
I chose the truncated version because I like the look. Its the same tweeter under the hood though.
The oak was supper dry and once I do the finish I'll seal all bare wood but there would still be a possibility that the wood may move. If it does its no big deal (to me), I'll deal with it.
Thanks for the compliment. You can call me Ralph.
Tell me about it! I've seen craftsmanship in speaker building that is at time surpassing of professional a level. As a matter of fact I've met and seen the work of so called "cabinetmakers" that ain't got nothin' on some speaker builders.
Lastly boy and girls. Don't eat, drink, and sniff anything wood. It might be bad for you.
Hey Dave, I don't think it will be a problem here as the span is too short.
Thanks for the compliment. You can call me Ralph.
I thought they told you it is customary for new members to be assigned names.
Sorry about the name change, Ralph (woody)! That said, it is still extraordinary work and I still welcome you to AK!
michiganpat
Super Member
doesn't hurt they're currently over 50% off, too and under $10/ea....
I thought they told you it is customary for new members to be assigned names.
Sorry about the name change, Ralph (woody)! That said, it is still extraordinary work and I still welcome you to AK!
No biggy. Thanks.
Yep. A little bonus there.
I got the crossovers assembled and applied dampening material to the inside of the cabinet (although I didn't order enough enough material from PE so I had to improvise).
I'll post pics latter today.
I got some more progress done over the weekend. I got the crossovers assembled/installed, added the padding and flush mounted the round terminals. All I need now is for the woofers to come in and to give the cabs a finish.
Attachments
:tresbon:
Ok, here's one you've all been waiting for. Ok, some of you have expressed interest in. Would you believe 2 or 3 people asked about? (my best Maxwell Smart)
Anyway, a few people asked about a matching center channel for the Indignias and figuring I need a new one anyway I went ahead and played around. Here's what I came up with. Attached pics show completed speaker (with original dust and bad lighting), XO schematic, XO picture, and measured far field response.
The drivers are Dayton DA135-8 5 1/4" aluminum cone mid/woof x2 and ND28F-6 1 1/8" soft dome neo tweeter with small faceplate. Box is .5ft^3 with 2 ports 1.5" diameter x 6 1/8" long. My inside dimensions are 7"H x 15"W x 9"D with a single, holey (not holy) brace from top to bottom.
Now a little theory on the design...a "toppled MTM" is generally a bad idea for a center channel. They look cool and are symmetric but tend to have a fairly narrow main lobe and fall off quickly after that. In a standing MTM that's good. It takes the ceiling and floor out of the equation. When toppled, that means you get a narrow beam horizontally so if you're not right in front of it you don't get the right sound. There are ways around this. You can drop the XO point to where the woofer seperation is less than the XO wavelength. This means the woofers will radiate as a point source (more or less). However, that means using a tweeter that can go really low (500Hz or below). Another way is the way I went, move the tweeter so that you can get the woofers closer. That way the XO doesn't have to be as low. I didn't measure the actual XO point but it's around 2kHz on this one.
The XO is built on a PE stock 2-way, 2nd order crossover board. I did that to make sure it would work ok (no reason it shouldn't) because some folks don't like building their own or doing point-to-point. I went with cheap inductors because this is a budget design to go with the Indignias.
A note on the box. I built my own. I usually do. My baffle is 16.5" wide (outside). I've layed the parts out on a stock PE baffle and, while it's tight, it will all fit. So you could do this with a PE .5ft^3 box and baffle. If I get free time and a hankering for some puzzle work I'll lay it out and take all the measurements and post them here. However, as of now you're on your own.
Now, for anyone playing at home, here's a BOM with PE numbers for you:
Woofer 295-330 x2
tweeter 275-040
c1 027-426
L1 255-034
c2 027-430
L2 255-036
XO board 260-120
The ports are 1.5" PVC just like the Indignias.
I think that covers everything. If I missed something, let me know. I'll see about getting a PE baffle layout in the not-too-distant future.
Enjoy,
Ray
Would this design work as a vertical MTM? I'm thinking a 7-7.5" wide baffle with mid/bass drivers centered and tweeter offset. Obviously this means that the close driver spacing would no longer exist between the two woofers but in a vertical MTM this is usually more of a benefit than a hindrance. I'm also thinking of bumping the volume up to .75 ft2 with the same tuning. This provides a little more bass extension at the sacrifice of power handling but being an MTM design this is not quite as important as with the MT.
I already have a pair of DA135-8s so if this does not look like a good idea I will simply build the Mindignia as designed . . . BTW, what did you end up with for padding down the tweeter. I seem to remember you saying somewhere that you found the original too bright.
Thanks in advance for a great design.
audio4ever
New Member
Hi,
I'm planning on building the Indignia speaker, but I have a question.
My local audio store only sells DC28-FS-8 (the shielded version).
I looked at the Specifications sheets and there seems to be some small difference between the shielded and non-shielded. Is this a problem or can I just use the shielded version.
Thanks,
Remon
I'm planning on building the Indignia speaker, but I have a question.
My local audio store only sells DC28-FS-8 (the shielded version).
I looked at the Specifications sheets and there seems to be some small difference between the shielded and non-shielded. Is this a problem or can I just use the shielded version.
Thanks,
Remon