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AK Design Collaborative - Insignia-Class Economy Speakers (a.k.a Indignia)

I was so interested in what you guys put together here, I'm jumping in. Already purchased all the parts. They arrive this week. These will be used in a large portable boom box.

I had one question about the port.....can I go with a rear slot port? After reading around (the cabinet links at the begining are not working), I saw a mention of the 0.38 cu ft. PE cabinet. I looked that up and see dimensions of 14H x 8W x 10.5D. FYI, I'll make my own cabinet. Given these dimensions and a material thickness of 0.5" birch ply, what length should my slot port be? I can use an "L" and I'd prefer it vents at the top of the cabinet. Since I'm going with thinner ply, I'll use oak dowels to brace.

Thanks in advance!
 
It's really hard to get a slot port to work exactly as intended/simulated unless it is floating off the baffle (away all the edges like a typical cylindrical port). Otherwise, leave a plan for adjustments or make an adjustable test cabinet.
 
If you're talking about a slot port the full width of the speaker, I wouldn't recommend it. In order to match up with the Indignia tuning it would need to be about .2" high and 8" long. It would most likely turn into a really big whistle.

You could do a rectangular port wherever you want to put it. Go with around 1" x 1.75" x 8" and you'll right in the vicinity.
 
RayW said:
If you're talking about a slot port the full width of the speaker, I wouldn't recommend it. In order to match up with the Indignia tuning it would need to be about .2" high and 8" long. It would most likely turn into a really big whistle.

You could do a rectangular port wherever you want to put it. Go with around 1" x 1.75" x 8" and you'll right in the vicinity.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I was thinking about a full width rectangular port. The rectangular port that you mentioned sounds a bit time consuming. What was the length and inside diameter on a circular port? It should vent towards the top of the cabinet correct?
 
The standard is 1.5" x 8". We usually put them on the front so that you have a little more placement freedom. If you put them on the back you have to keep them away from the back wall or the bass will get silly. You can put then port wherever you want as long as you watch where you put the speakers. I stay away from top venting because it's easy to get all manner of stuff inside the speakers but it's really up to you and your particular situation.
 
RayW said:
The standard is 1.5" x 8". We usually put them on the front so that you have a little more placement freedom. If you put them on the back you have to keep them away from the back wall or the bass will get silly. You can put then port wherever you want as long as you watch where you put the speakers. I stay away from top venting because it's easy to get all manner of stuff inside the speakers but it's really up to you and your particular situation.
Click to expand...

Sorry if I was unclear, I meant the upper portion of rear cabinet wall. These will be used for a portable boom box, so there won't be any issues with a back wall!

If the cabinet is 10.5" deep, should the port "intake" be behind the tweeter? What sort of power do these like, I'm looking for RMS range....again, I'll be in an outdoor situation.

Your help is really appreciated!!
 
You'll be fine with a rear port like that. Doesn't have to be directly behind the tweeter. In fact it's probably going to be easier to build with it somewhere else.

Power...I've run them with a little Dayton T-amp (probably ~10W into these speakers with fairly high distortion and with a Carver TFM-22 (225W). As long as you pay attention to what you're hearing you can use just about anything. Note that they're pretty inefficient so a low power amp won't get you a lot of sound. I would probably go with something >20wpc.

Keep us updated on your project. Sounds fun.
 
RayW said:
You'll be fine with a rear port like that. Doesn't have to be directly behind the tweeter. In fact it's probably going to be easier to build with it somewhere else.

Power...I've run them with a little Dayton T-amp (probably ~10W into these speakers with fairly high distortion and with a Carver TFM-22 (225W). As long as you pay attention to what you're hearing you can use just about anything. Note that they're pretty inefficient so a low power amp won't get you a lot of sound. I would probably go with something >20wpc.

Keep us updated on your project. Sounds fun.
Click to expand...

For now I'm trying out this amp: http://www.parts-express.com/2x100w-at-4-ohm-tk2050-class-d-audio-amplifier-board-only--320-334. I was planning to experiment with 12V and 24V power. Hopefully this will provided the needed juice. What is the overall impedance on the speakers?

I'll do a build thread and share, really stoked about it.
 
It's nominally an 8Ω speaker. I think Zilch posted an impedance plot somewhere in this thread if you want specifics.

That amp should make for a great boombox.
 
RayW said:
It's nominally an 8Ω speaker. I think Zilch posted an impedance plot somewhere in this thread if you want specifics.

That amp should make for a great boombox.
Click to expand...

Ballpark impedance works fine for me. Cool, the amp is already on the way!

I'll be back in the near future with an update. Speakers and XO parts arrive today or tomorrow, amp and a bluetooth module should show up this week. I'll build a test box and go from there.

Again, thanks a bunch. :thmbsp:
 
JB L not used in an ewave

I did a quick search of this thread and came up empty. I can't believe that.

Has anyone here built an ewave with JBL 2225h and 2426H components?
 
Does anyone know if the parts list for the speakers and crossovers is still accurate? Also, I don't have access to a router to do the speaker holes, is there a box that already has the requisite holes precut or does someone here do that for a fee?

Soldering I don't have an issue with, I have that gear, however I do not have woodworking tools at this time (nor really the place to do them).
 
Nothing has changed in the design since the original "release" so the parts list PE has should still be good.

There was a member selling an Indignia kit complete with pre-cut baffles in Bartertown but you'll have to subscribe to get there.

Other than that, dnewma04 did a bunch of baffle milling on the first generation. I did a bunch after that but it's been a couple of years since I cut any. I'd have to dig around and see if my templates are still viable.
 
Ray, I'd still like to have you do a couple more baffles, if you would. Just got to get them off the back burner.
 
How do you think these would sound being run off of a Marantz 2015 receiver? Can I wall mount them pretty high up near the ceiling and have them still sound OK? I ask because the designers of the apartment that I live in only had basic living space on their mind and the clean walls to put speakers near have things like fireplaces, large windows, crazy angles...
 
Mounting them on the wall will most likely make the bass more bloated than you want. Zilch messed around with sealed boxes on the wall and said it sounded pretty good. If you're going to mount them that way I'd either start with sealed boxes and then cut holes for ports if you don't think the bass is good or use some plugs (do a search for Zilchplugz) to try them that way.

Blast, I could probably be persuaded. I need to dig around the shop and find my templates.
 
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