Okke 70s
Super Member
In that case: first clean or replace the "on" switch as Raccoon suggested. If that doesn't fiks it, we could look at tightening the transformer and/or replacing rectifier diodes.
AKAI 1015 Receiver loud crack(le/pop) on power on
- Thread starter MacShrike
- Start date
Ls,
So I took out the power/speaker select knob/switch.
That was hard. They didn't spend any extra cents on longer leads.
Didn't know I knew so many swear words
But I got it then opened it up.
For the state please see pictures below.
I'm guessing I will have to repair/place those copper connector plates.
Is that at all possible?
Will that ever NOT arc? Looks like a toaster switch.
Wouldn't it be better to get a newer type as replacement?
So I took out the power/speaker select knob/switch.
That was hard. They didn't spend any extra cents on longer leads.
Didn't know I knew so many swear words
But I got it then opened it up.
For the state please see pictures below.
I'm guessing I will have to repair/place those copper connector plates.
Is that at all possible?
Will that ever NOT arc? Looks like a toaster switch.
Wouldn't it be better to get a newer type as replacement?
Raccoon1400
Super Member
That's the speaker switch portion. That little box attached to the back is the power switchLs,
So I took out the power/speaker select knob/switch.
That was hard. They didn't spend any extra cents on longer leads.
Didn't know I knew so many swear words
But I got it then opened it up.
For the state please see pictures below.
I'm guessing I will have to repair/place those copper connector plates.
Is that at all possible?
Will that ever NOT arc? Looks like a toaster switch.
Wouldn't it be better to get a newer type as replacement?View attachment 2549046 View attachment 2549049 View attachment 2549050
Attachments
Ah yeah I suppose it is.
But I think that's looking fine.
The rotating disc connector on the other hand looks pretty terrible.
Also, it's not the power switching on that produces the pop, it s as soon as the active speakers are selected.
When I put the speaker on A; it's on the first turn of the knob but when I connect the speaker to B, it happens on the 3'rd turn.
But I think that's looking fine.
The rotating disc connector on the other hand looks pretty terrible.
Also, it's not the power switching on that produces the pop, it s as soon as the active speakers are selected.
When I put the speaker on A; it's on the first turn of the knob but when I connect the speaker to B, it happens on the 3'rd turn.
Binkman
Lunatic Member
G'day;Haven't looked at a schema or SM.. if no speaker relay then it's cap coupled? turn on speaker switch first before powering on.
Use cheap speakers at rated ohms to test, you'll still get a pop but should be minimized.
However the unit sounds like it needs work and the speaker sw could be cleaned with contact cleaner?
It all starts in the power supply and mains caps replaced? and who knows rectifier may need attention, assorted caps etc.
If an Arrestor cap on power switch circuit? Cold or aged solder joints? Tired transistors can also crackle.
------
Have you built a Dim Bulb Tester?
Use cheap speakers at rated ohms to test, you'll still get a pop but should be minimized.
However the unit sounds like it needs work and the speaker sw could be cleaned with contact cleaner?
It all starts in the power supply and mains caps replaced? and who knows rectifier may need attention, assorted caps etc.
If an Arrestor cap on power switch circuit? Cold or aged solder joints? Tired transistors can also crackle.
------
Have you built a Dim Bulb Tester?
Dear sir/ G'day mate
All you said is probably true but sounds like Chinese to me
funny fact; I only speak Japanese 
Power switch and speaker select is same rotating switch.
Fyi: I haven't build a bulb but I am pretty dim
Binkman
Lunatic Member
G'day to you again.G'day mate
Basic Dim bulb tester is handy to see if you have a short somewhere. read up on it.
I do get the read you haven't had much experience. try to get a grasp of it?
Service manual.. https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/akai/aa-1015.shtml
Raccoon1400
Super Member
Put an ohm meter across the power switch and see what the resistance is when closed. Should be almost 0.
The speaker selector could use some deoxit most likely.
You said the lights were flickering on powerup, right?
@Binkmeister; yeah I'm trying. More of a software dude myself.
My mom listens to classical radio 4 in Amsterdam, the Netherlands.
Also she likes Danny Vera. Especially the song Rollercoaster.
You down-under? I've got a cousin there; Pete! You know him?
Raccoon1400: yes. The lights flicker then stabilise.
I'm back on it tomorrow morning
Thank you again for your time
Binkman
Lunatic Member
Buy and or trade for a nice portable radio multi band? till you get it fixed. Did the same for my Mom when she was older.. loved it for taking it around the house.
Raccoon1400
Super Member
Then you have a power switch issue for sure. You may have other issues as well but you'll need to address that first. Or you can place a short across the power switch to test the rest of the unit.
Sear friends,
It is done
I, thanks to all your help, finally understood it.
The powerswitch has nothing to do with the speaker selector. I couldn't understand how that was supposed to work and afcourse; it doesn't
Bought some deoxit and some colored wires.
Cleaned the switch and selector discs.
Managed to put it back together back even
There is still a small tick when the speakers are powered. Even with no input.
But I gather that this is normal because of the capacitor design.
If someone knows how this can be further improved I would like to try.
It is however much better. One of the most rewarding things I have done.
I'll drop some pictures below just as proof I did not waste your time in helping me.
Thanks a million!
It is done
I, thanks to all your help, finally understood it.
The powerswitch has nothing to do with the speaker selector. I couldn't understand how that was supposed to work and afcourse; it doesn't
Bought some deoxit and some colored wires.
Cleaned the switch and selector discs.
Managed to put it back together back even
There is still a small tick when the speakers are powered. Even with no input.
But I gather that this is normal because of the capacitor design.
If someone knows how this can be further improved I would like to try.
It is however much better. One of the most rewarding things I have done.
I'll drop some pictures below just as proof I did not waste your time in helping me.
Thanks a million!
Raccoon1400
Super Member
Congrats on getting the power switch repaired and back together.
https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/i...orth-5-and-an-hour-or-so-of-your-time.504673/
You'll want to do the mod in this thread. Will save you ever having to do this again.
https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/i...orth-5-and-an-hour-or-so-of-your-time.504673/
You'll want to do the mod in this thread. Will save you ever having to do this again.
Binkman
Lunatic Member
Very Good 'Grasshoppa'! Feels good huh? Caution?? It can get very addictive.
Very Good 'Grasshoppa'! Feels good huh? Caution?? It can get very addictive.
Thx racoon. I will do so when Kings-day is over (Netherlands here).
@Binkman : Indeed! Caution? I've been known to do much worse things. This is very holistically safe =)) Bless you.
On a side note:
What causes a crackle/pop on an audio line to the speakers on a speaker with no source?
This had me confused at first. The PSU and the speakers are not connected(yeah now I know). Yet even with no input audio the speakers pop? What produces that?
Love'yall
Mac
Raccoon1400
Super Member
Is this on powerup?
Raccoon1400
Super Member
So the pop is when changing speakers when it is on? From one pair to another or are you switching from a position with no speaker connected to your speakers?
There will be some pop with cap coupled units when doing this, especially if the speakers were off and you are turning them on when the power is on. A cap coupled unit has DC on the output until the speaker is connected. If the speaker is connected on powerup it brings this DC down as the supply voltage going up, if you connect the speaker with the unit on it gets hit with it all at once. I always say to not touch the speaker switch on a cap coupled unit when it is on
Okke 70s
Super Member
Ah, a time for great aquasitions. Found anything yet? I grabbed this Philips clock-radio and I'm over the hill with it!
Even when the input is set to something else, the power amp is connected to the speakers. A capacitor coupled amplifier has a large capacitor located between the output of the amplifier and the speaker(selector). The capacitor is charged-up when the amp is switched on, en then discharges straight in to the speaker. If you got the speaker selector set to nothing, then there is nowhere for the capacitor to charge in to. Untill it gets connected to a speaker, then it will discharge in to that.