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Akai M-9 R2R 3D Printing new Cams

MKF83

Active Member
My Akai M-9 has the expected pot metal rot on the Fwd/Rev Cams. I decided to be proactive about it and dive into 3D printing some replacements.

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I thought I may have gotten lucky with a model of the cam that popped up on thingyverse back in December. The creator claimed in worked in his tape deck. I uploaded the model to the printing service that I use and waited for the results.
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They looked good and i was optimistic of the function. The plastic they use is very dense and durable, I'm confident they can handle the stress and contact wear.
I test fit the control cam and things just did not line up properly. some of the levers were properly actuated, but the switch lever did not stay in place. The newly printed cam was just too far off in some key places from the original profile. In hindsight I should have made my own model from the original cam. I'm not a master machine designer, but can handle a caliper and give recreating a piece a spirited go. To be fair I believe the designer of the cam i used followed online pictures and the dimensions of a halfway crumbled original cam.
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The black outline is a printout of my 3D model. The overlayed part is clearly deficient in the lobe profile. Some other not so obvious dimensions were off by enough to make the cam not function properly.

Below my 3D model ready to order from the printing service. I like using a service because of the fine resolution their printers can produce. I'll update this thread when progress, or setbacks, are made.
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Yep I've seen that set. It's still an option if I can't pull this off myself. If my plastic cam works, I want to create a mass reduced version for printing in metal. I get the feeling Ill spend more than $80 printing prototypes, but I'm having fun with it.:)
 
Got the 3D printed cam in the mail the other day.
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It is much closer to the original part than the one I found online.
Installed the roller for the play/rec lockout. Melted the plastic to keep it in place.
Also added some superglue and baking soda to the opposite edge to give support. this part does not see a lot of force. I used a 8-32 set screw to secure.
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Put it in place and ran through the operation modes. Everything Clicked into place as it should. Very happy with the fit and function.
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It's a shame that a lot of Akai's get trashed or parted out because of these rotted cams. This particular machine has sentimental value, so I was willing to go above and beyond to save it. Not bad for a few hours of CAD modeling and $7 worth of 3D Printed plastic.
 

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Next project is the tape counter. Its a mess.
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I had to make some assumptions on this model. The original is crumbling and the geometry is distorted. Even in this bad condition, the mech still works so I'm confident the first print attempt will work to some degree. The mess between the drive gear will be the big deal breaker if anything. Some fillets and ribs added to stiffen some areas which will now by nylon

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Hi! Were you able to successfully print a new tape counter body? Would you be willing to share/sell the design file or a printed copy?
 
Hi! Were you able to successfully print a new tape counter body? Would you be willing to share/sell the design file or a printed copy?
Not yet still gathering some other models to reduce my shipping costs. I use shapeways.com
They use machines that make outstanding prints.

I can make it available on their site. It is however unproven at this point
 
It is good to do some research rather than just believe what is on E bay or some such place. I would not be sure that the 3D plastic has the strength but if it works over a long time then you are set. Some have thought or machining this out of a better metal other than Pot aluminum but that would be way more costly. Good luck on your results and hope it keeps on going for you. If not you know where to get more. A lot of parts fail out of the old grease they used was way to hard and resistant to movement and this applies to all Japan brands as they share the same wrong grease throughout their companies. I use Lubriplate 105 and have never had a return yet.
 
Success! The Tape counter lives. Took a bit a wiggling, modification and adjustment. Great to have my machine whole again.
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It is good to do some research rather than just believe what is on E bay or some such place. I would not be sure that the 3D plastic has the strength but if it works over a long time then you are set. Some have thought or machining this out of a better metal other than Pot aluminum but that would be way more costly. Good luck on your results and hope it keeps on going for you. If not you know where to get more. A lot of parts fail out of the old grease they used was way to hard and resistant to movement and this applies to all Japan brands as they share the same wrong grease throughout their companies. I use Lubriplate 105 and have never had a return yet.
I get the prints in industrial nylon. It is solid and stable, especially when compared to infilled materials or the standard ABS. Lubriplate is great. Also the go to for M1 Garand
 
Was just gifted an M-9, do you still have the cad files for the parts? I have a 3D printer and have been itching for a reason to try nylon.....
 
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