ALK Universal Economy Crossover for the Heresy

[nniemiec]

i'm trying to slowly secure the parts & make my own eventually. Seeking confirmation on:

- the (3) inductor values in the crossover?
- How to build or secure an L-Pad that faithfully aligns with the original design goals with respect to damping factor?

My notes indicate the inductors should be:

(2) 16AWG (1.3mH) Litz Air Core inductors
(1) solid core inductor 14AWG (2.5mH)

Thanks for any intel you can provide about this build.

 

[ClaudeJ1]

Schematic needed.

 

[Deang]

Yeah, there’s like four of them.

 

[ClaudeJ1]

Yeah, there’s like four of them.

At least post a few to ponder. You must have them if you are aware of them. Telling us how many they are will not solve his request.

 

[Deang]

I’m in my car. Still, not real comfortable with posting all of his schematics. I’m open to posting the early ones though.

 

[nniemiec]

I believe the cap values in this "schematic" are:
(1) 33uF
(2) 2.2uF
(1) 6.8uF

 

[ClaudeJ1]

Yeah, there’s like four of them.

I believe the cap values in this "schematic" are:
(1) 33uF
(2) 2.2uF
(1) 6.8uF

The image of the "schematic" is wrong. Gross miswiring.

 

[nniemiec]

hoping you or someone else can elaborate on the correct representation since this is a naughty subject on the Klipsch hosted forums.... there's no copyright violation by elaborating on this design as far as I know?

 

[Deang]

I was Al’s licensed builder for the Universal for some time. While the relationship didn’t end well, one thing we agreed on was that we didn’t want to support DIY builds - which often end up looking like hell. It’s not a build for beginners.

Use 3636 autoformers.
Use a 26uF instead of a 33uF.
Litz coils are .20mH and .30mH

L-pad is an L-pad. Not sure what you are talking about. Use an Lpad calculator and calculate 9dB and 8 ohms.

 

[nniemiec]

Thank you for sharing. Can you elaborate on what makes this NOT a "beginner build?" I look at the layouts of the universal crossover and fail to grasp what is so advanced about buying the parts and faithfully adhering to the design orientation & values provided by the designer?

 

[Deang]

Yeah, we never understood it with either, but people consistently built stuff we didn’t want to be associated with.

 

[David D]

Thank you for sharing. Can you elaborate on what makes this NOT a "beginner build?" I look at the layouts of the universal crossover and fail to grasp what is so advanced about buying the parts and faithfully adhering to the design orientation & values provided by the designer?

Yeah, we never understood it with either, but people consistently built stuff we didn’t want to be associated with.

I was wondering the same thing. Thanks for clarifying. I haven’t been here long enough for anyone to know me from Adam, but I’m anything but a beginner (e.g. I got my first soldering iron in 1969 when I was 7 years old, and was certified in mil spec soldering when I was in my early 20’s).

 

[mboxler]

The image of the "schematic" is wrong. Gross miswiring.

Sorry, but I fail to see any issues with the schematic. Granted, the connections from the autoformer to the squawker out are missing, but everything else seems okay.

 

[geoff.27]

This is what is on the ALK website last time I screen shotted it.

As Dean suggested, for a 700 hz cross from woofer to squawker in a Heresy requires a 26uF in place of the 48.

 

[THD+N]

Here is my version of the "universal" that has yielded excellent results. You can massage the cap values to your liking; such as 26uf instead of 28.2uF.

 

[Gigantic]

What does it do differently from a Type E?

 

[ClaudeJ1]

What does it do differently from a Type E?

Higher order with different phase.

 

[THD+N]

When you migrate to the "universal" type crossover design, you can change midrange taps without having to recalculate the midrange cap value. Also, the midrange is rolled off on the top end to blend better with the tweeter.

In addition, you have a modern 18dB high pass crossover for the tweeter instead of the older constant "k" 18dB high pass crossover (Type AA). If you have a Type E, then that had only a 6dB cap only for the tweeter high pass crossover.

You can also add an L-pad to the tweeter circuit independant of the midrange driver.

 

[ClaudeJ1]

]

When you migrate to the "universal" type crossover design, you can change midrange taps without having to recalculate the midrange cap value. Also, the midrange is rolled off on the top end to blend better with the tweeter.

In addition, you have a modern 18dB high pass crossover for the tweeter instead of the older constant "k" 18dB high pass crossover (Type AA). If you have a Type E, then that had only a 6dB cap only for the tweeter high pass crossover.

You can also add an L-pad to the tweeter circuit independant of the midrange driver.

Yep. I have a custom ALK network. The "Swamping Resistor" is a great addition to the circuit for the midrange, since this is the most sensitive of the 3 sections.

 

[Gigantic]

Higher order with different phase.

Could you explain that to me as If I built my first crossover in the past 6 months?