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Alright - Who can fire up a list of parts for RSII xover?

Thanks Glen. Just curious, I have seen you mention option two before.

Say theoretically I want to simulate a 160uf non polar load. I use a PAIR of 160uf caps right? Wired as you say? Or pair of 80s? Just clarifying for my own mind.

Thanks!
 
Two equal caps in series halve the effective capacitance. So you'd need two 320µf polarized caps in series to simulate a 160µf non-polar cap.

Series formula is 1/C = 1/C1 + 1/C2 + 1/C3 .....and on and on. With just two caps, you can use product over sum: C = (C1 x C2) / (C1 + C2). If the two caps are equal in value, just slash the cap value in half for your answer.
 
I don't understand why it matters whether it is a non-polarized capacitor or polarized. My technical sheet for the crossover clearly labels +/- for all connections.
 
Take apart your speakers and read the capacitors, they say non polar.

I won't get too technical here (because I will make myself look dumb) but you must use NP caps in crossovers.

Evan
 
Hmm, can't remember but I think I used a polar 1 in my old Infinity's. Everything was MKP except that one 150uF. Can be that it was polar but don't remember...

My commen sense tells me that you have to use NP because a speaker works on AC and a cap can't handle AC (it explodes). Maybe it has something to do with that?
 
Well, I am back on board with the recap project. I was going to let it slide and ignore the problem but my mids dropped out again on one speaker. I have a problem with one of the large can caps. I find it hard to believe the others are in better shape..

If I find a solution I will be sure to post.

Evan
 
I'll have a site with links to PE part numbers that will allow you to recap in dayton poly pro caps for the mids/highs and and NPE caps for a majority of the capacitance on the woofer section with a decent percentage of the total accounted for with signfiicantly higher quality poly pro caps.

If there is interest, I can create something similar with all NPE for those on a tight budget or all polypro caps for someone with a bit too much money in their pockets.
 
FWIW, those small NPE's would be lucky to be able to carry a fraction of the current of the original large can capacitors. That may or may not be important here, but should be considered. I'd be more inclined to use a pair of 3300µf large-can caps back-to-back.
 
I have never seen the stock crossovers, I was just going with the specs shown in the schematic. I have no reason to doubt that a pair of large can caps might be more appropriate, but I would still like the influence of a higher quality cap than an electrolytic in that position. Perhaps a slightly smaller pair of large can caps in series bypassed by a polypro cap?

I know that woofers aren't nearly as important with respect to the use of electrolytics but I guess I might be a little extra anal if investing the kind of money necessary to recap these speakers.

BTW, any worries about ESR with the larger can caps in this case? (it's another reason I would prefer to throw a polypro into the mix and one of the reasons I suggested the batch of paralleled caps.

Thanks for your thoughts.
 
Most large-can caps are large for a variety of reasons, one being to effect very low ESR, which is directly related to ripple current rating. Big caps have a lot of surface area, and subsequently very low ESR and very high ripple current ratings.

Like I said, if I was going to rebuild the crossover on my RS 2.5's, I'd go the 'back-to-back' route with a pair of large-can electrolytics, and maybe bypass with a small film cap (but for the woofer, the small film cap is likely to have 'little-to-no' real effect on the circuit).
 
My primary concern would have been ESR, and if it's low in large can caps, then I would have no problem with their use. :)

When I have used electrolytics in speakers, I've used them only on woofer sections and generally have bypassed, but if there were an area that would be less critical about needing a bypass cap, it would be in this application.

Thanks again for your comments.
 
Here are pics of the crossovers...and my feet...
 

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Did you replace the pots, they look different from the ones I pulled. They look like the ones I swapped in.

Please double check my crossover list!!

Evan
 
In my IRS1.5 I changed everything except the big blue and the big gray one. Because those have the least influence.

Best regards
 
Did you replace the pots, they look different from the ones I pulled. They look like the ones I swapped in.

Please double check my crossover list!!

Evan

Yes, I replaced the mid pots long ago, but I haven't changed anything else as of yet.
 
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