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Amp for my Cornwalls

Then I'd stay away from REL if they design HT subs that are no good for Music and music subs that are no good for HT. I can see having different inputs for the most common hook ups but having one sub for music and another one for HT sounds like a marketing ploy to sell more product. If a sub is accurate within it's operational range it will excel in both applications. I suppose they may be tuning one lower and one higher, that would be the only difference between the two that makes sense but that still seems like something they'd do to sell more subs. HSU sells great subs but they offer (or at least used to) a MBM which was a mid bass module. It was used WITH their conventional subs to reach up a little higher and give a little more chest bump. I totally understand that application.
 
cecaa850 said:
Then I'd stay away from REL if they design HT subs that are no good for Music and music subs that are no good for HT. I can see having different inputs for the most common hook ups but having one sub for music and another one for HT sounds like a marketing ploy to sell more product. If a sub is accurate within it's operational range it will excel in both applications. I suppose they may be tuning one lower and one higher, that would be the only difference between the two that makes sense but that still seems like something they'd do to sell more subs. HSU sells great subs but they offer (or at least used to) a MBM which was a mid bass module. It was used WITH their conventional subs to reach up a little higher and give a little more chest bump. I totally understand that application.
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The REL subs that have both high level and LFE inputs are designed for both 2-channel and home theater. You can use one subwoofer for both systems. There are many articles on the subject and almost all say that high level inputs are the preferred and recommended way to use a subwoofer in 2-channel audio systems. Until you've tried one, you'll never know what you've been missing. It's one of the most impactful upgrades I've ever made to my system.
 
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IB

^^ click

Four 18's and 2500 watts. Most musical bass you've ever heard and 110dB at 10 Hz 12 ft from the drivers. Incredible with movies. Infrasonics galore.
 
Last time I listened to Cornwalls was with a Nakamichi 620 power amplifier and a Thorens table.. Back in 1981 over in Germany. Don't remember which pre-amp he was using .It was set up in pretty a small room. Sounded excellent..
 
jayvis said:
Yeah, my nephew has them in the trunk of his car. He thinks they're awesome. :rolleyes:
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Apples and oranges.

Most people proud of their car subs only care about SPL. My living room is calibrated correctly. It took weeks EQing the subs and then running room correction software. If you didn't see the subs on the wall you'd swear the mains are bottomless. You can't tell where the bass is coming from.
 
baeron said:
Get a Adcom GFA-555
And be done with it
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I have an early version of the GFA-555 on my bench now. Bought it years ago not working. Rebuilt it and sounds great. However, it is going to be a test mule for another amp design. I am laying out the circuit board now. It will be a "triple darlington/EF3" instead of the 555 MK 1 which is a "Darlington/EF2). It is tight (i.e. - challenge) but everything is fitting on the very small PCB.
 
Cambo5150 said:
View attachment 2971089I started swapping gear around. Hooked the Cornwalls up to the “Devils amp” Sansui AU-666. Not perfect but so much more base. Can’t get the volume passed 9 o’clock or it’ll knock the house down. So I’ll need to search for a tube amp that has that base punch that I was missing with the Glow Amp 2.
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That's a great looking setup!

Have you rebuilt/restored the AU-666?

I'm using an AU-999 restored with all the mods with my Cornwall II's & it's awesome.

My Cornwalls were messed up though: someone had put the wrong crossovers in, and the K34E had been reconed to 8ohms too, which really screwed up the sound. So check your woofer to make sure.

If you are set on a tube amp Fisher 400 would get my vote.
 
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