Another MX-1000 refurbished

[amr2]

Just to say it again, am really impressed on your work with changing out the lights and replacing with LED's on the MX. Thanks for documenting that procedure for US/me!

Thanks again Garry .

In case anyone is interested, switching from AC to DC in the lighting circuit can be done simply by changing this jumper:

 

[Spiceman50]

Thanks again Garry .

In case anyone is interested, switching from AC to DC in the lighting circuit can be done simply by changing this jumper:

View attachment 2615527

Most straight forward post I've seen yet, regarding this topic. Thank you kind sir!
Garry

 

[sonavor]

Very nice work and thanks for the good photos.

 

[amr2]

 

[Spiceman50]

BEAUTIFUL!! I've been looking for an EQ-630. I can find them, just not willing to spend the money some want for it. Nice job putting that together.

 

[amr2]

I bought the EQ very cheap years ago. But lately some vintage gear are listed for ridiculous prices..,

 

[yamtage]

4- Conversion to led

The goal was to achieve the same lighting (color, intensity, dispersion) as the original bulbs, but without the problems associated with the generated heat.

The power supply of the lamps were changed from AC (yellow mark) to DC (red mark), simply changing a jumper (reversible). This simplifies the change from lamps to LEDs, since only one limiting resistor is needed per diode. And it avoids the slight flickering that occurs with a half-wave rectifier. As each led only draws 2.5mA it does not represent any problem for D521.

MX-1000_30

• amr2
• Jul 11, 2022

Wide dispersion red LEDs have been used

MX-1000_29

• amr2
• Jul 11, 2022

The original wiring is reused

MX-1000_28

• amr2
• Jul 11, 2022

MX-1000_31

• amr2
• Jul 11, 2022

MX-1000_32

• amr2
• Jul 11, 2022

Do you have some more details for the led’s please. Thx.

 

[yamtage]

4- Conversion to led

The goal was to achieve the same lighting (color, intensity, dispersion) as the original bulbs, but without the problems associated with the generated heat.

The power supply of the lamps were changed from AC (yellow mark) to DC (red mark), simply changing a jumper (reversible). This simplifies the change from lamps to LEDs, since only one limiting resistor is needed per diode. And it avoids the slight flickering that occurs with a half-wave rectifier. As each led only draws 2.5mA it does not represent any problem for D521.

MX-1000_30

• amr2
• Jul 11, 2022

Wide dispersion red LEDs have been used

MX-1000_29

• amr2
• Jul 11, 2022

The original wiring is reused

MX-1000_28

• amr2
• Jul 11, 2022

MX-1000_31

• amr2
• Jul 11, 2022

MX-1000_32

• amr2
• Jul 11, 2022

 

[Nashou66]

Don't forget this part of the mod.

 

[Spiceman50]

I bought the EQ very cheap years ago. But lately some vintage gear are listed for ridiculous prices..,

As a follow up, I acquired a 10/10 EQ-630 at a great price via Face Book a month ago.

Garry

 

[amr2]

Do you have some more details for the led’s please. Thx.

I used wide dispersion LEDs (140º), Kingbright brand. Right now I don't remember the reference, I think they are already discontinued. Once the mod that @Nashou66 remarks is made, you simply have to replace each bulb with an LED + a series resistor. As you probably already know, the function of this resistor is limit the current that circulates through the diode. The value of the resistor depends on the LED used, and must be adjusted to achieve a brightness as close as possible to the original. In my case I used 5K resistors.

 

[Sparkplug]

I used wide dispersion LEDs (140º), Kingbright brand. Right now I don't remember the reference, I think they are already discontinued. Once the mod that @Nashou66 remarks is made, you simply have to replace each bulb with an LED + a series resistor. As you probably already know, the function of this resistor is limit the current that circulates through the diode. The value of the resistor depends on the LED used, and must be adjusted to achieve a brightness as close as possible to the original. In my case I used 5K resistors.

Kingbright is my go to LED maker, especially their wide dispersion models …

Great job.

 

[RIQUE]

Here are some pics of the latest addition to my collection.

1- Speaker binding posts

New binding posts, capacitors and relays.

MX-1000_01

• amr2
• Jul 11, 2022
• 1

MX-1000_03

• amr2
• Jul 11, 2022

MX-1000_04

• amr2
• Jul 11, 2022

MX-1000_05

• amr2
• Jul 11, 2022

MX-1000_06

• amr2
• Jul 11, 2022

MX-1000_07

• amr2
• Jul 11, 2022

MX-1000_08

• amr2
• Jul 11, 2022

MX-1000_09

• amr2
• Jul 11, 2022

MX-1000_10

• amr2
• Jul 11, 2022

MX-1000_11

• amr2
• Jul 11, 2022

Hi, what type copper wire did you use to replace the aluminum speaker bars ? Thnx in advance.

 

[amr2]

Hi, what type copper wire did you use to replace the aluminum speaker bars ? Thnx in advance.

Hi. Bare copper earth wire

 

[maxchau]

I have redone one of mine this year.
View attachment 2613616

here is a video of it

Hi

rottalpha, I am interested in knowing how did you changed the RCA connectors on the board. Can you show me with a photo or something? thanks Max​

 

[Saule]

Thank you so much for this wonderful project. amr2, rottalfa, avionikos ....​

 

[Saule]

I have already ordered parts for the second amplifier. According to the list MX1000_BOM_V1_2 .
AMR2 yamaha mx-1000 restoration king. Thank you very much.

 

[amr2]

Thank you very much! I’m glad the list is useful to you. I use the MX-1000 from this thread almost every day, and it’s a delight. It’s definitely worth investing in a good tune-up.

 

[Saule]

How to resolder old connections. How to remelt
First, suck off the old solder.
Did put new solder tape on top?
What solder to use without lead? Original

 

[amr2]

It’s best to remove the old solder and re-solder it. I like to use a eutectic tin-lead alloy, such as Kester.