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Another Super High End Phono Stage! No expense spared...

Thanks for the feedback.

OK, so I need to find either a small sheet of aluminum, or plastic, that would be easy to cut to size, to create a mounting plate that would attach to my box, to which I would use risers and attache the PCB to. Does anyone know of a source?

How big is the box, can you post a pic?
 
Enclosure

I'm planning to make a 5 sided box out of quarter inch plywood, reinforced corners, and veneer it. Interior will be ~4X6", and ~3" hi. "Bottom" will be open for air circulation and easy access to the dip switches (if needed).

Volume control shaft and jacks for RCA and power will be mounted on the 4" side. PCA will be mounted upside down and to wooden spacers under the top. Wiring to the jacks will have a nice service loop so that the board can easily be pulled out if it needs servicing or modifications.

9V batteries and an on/off control relay will be housed at the back of my TT and routed to the CNC alongside the innerconnects.

Rubber feet can be mounted at the corner reinforcements and provide ~ 1/2" clearance for ventilation.

Power LED will be mounted on top, dead center. With the volume knob & wiring coming out the back, the LED and veneer should be all that you see.

.
 
OK, so I need to find either a small sheet of aluminum, or plastic, that would be easy to cut to size, to create a mounting plate that would attach to my box, to which I would use risers and attache the PCB to. Does anyone know of a source?

Look around - you may be able to use an old plastic cutting board, for
example, or an unwanted tray.
 
I'm planning to make a 5 sided box out of quarter inch plywood, reinforced corners, and veneer it. Interior will be ~4X6", and ~3" hi. "Bottom" will be open for air circulation and easy access to the dip switches (if needed).

Volume control shaft and jacks for RCA and power will be mounted on the 4" side. PCA will be mounted upside down and to wooden spacers under the top. Wiring to the jacks will have a nice service loop so that the board can easily be pulled out if it needs servicing or modifications.

9V batteries and an on/off control relay will be housed at the back of my TT and routed to the CNC alongside the innerconnects.

Rubber feet can be mounted at the corner reinforcements and provide ~ 1/2" clearance for ventilation.

Power LED will be mounted on top, dead center. With the volume knob & wiring coming out the back, the LED and veneer should be all that you see.

.
Does CNC has provision for volume knob?/

Regards,
Sachin
 
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How big is the box, can you post a pic?

I'll snap some pics tonight or tomorrow and will get back). I'm recycling an old "Blackbox" A/B/C selector box that is big enough to house the PCB and batteries. I'm horrible at describing things so I'm hoping my pics will clear things up.
 
Got mine the day after I asked about the BOM! If I knew you were THAT fast, I wouldn't have bothered you. Thanks to Bill and Dammit as well, nice going onthis. Rarely do we ever see these kind of results with theis speed! Ratshack has a small cheap ($4) enclosure that some SLIGHT edge trimming works for this. Or a wooden recipe box from Micheals or the like, they are like $6. 6 -9V battery couplings are $3 at Ratshack BTW, cheaper than Digikey. I bought double of everything (except ICs), so if someone is short a part or something, I can send you one without paying the Digikey killer postage & tax charge. Or if there are any left, I might buy another one. But I'll let some time go by so everyone else can get one. But if HT is stuck with soem extras... Heck, I haven't even decided which TT(s) I will use this with, I just wanted to compare it to the other TTPs in my existing gear, and have the ability to add a 2nd or 3rd TT with an AUX IN. Be kind of fun. I'll have to re-read the thread because I'm not sure what the dip switched in resistors were even for!
 
Dumb question.... if you do use a resistor like in post #27, do you have to have one for each gain stage (side) or is there a way to wire them together?
 
Dumb question.... if you do use a resistor like in post #27, do you have to have one for each gain stage (side) or is there a way to wire them together?

There are three possible combination's for gain with the components supplied, I would not change the 3.32k resistors. You can change the 100 or 150 ohm resistors circled below.

The CNC PCB has a pair 100 ohm resistors in the first stage and a pair of 150 ohm resistors in the second stage, both pairs must be the same value as each other. Otherwise you will have one channel louder than the other.

If we alter the values of each pair we can adjust the gain like so:

150 pair & 150 pair which doesn't give sufficient gain IMO

100 pair & 150 pair as shown on the CNC PCB which is ideal to me

100 pair & 100 pair which will give even more gain

My advice is try what's on the PCB and see how that goes, you can always adjust it later. You can have different values front and back as shown but not different values side to side as shown by the linked circles.

CNCGain.jpg
 
How big is the box, can you post a pic?

Sorry for the extreme delay.

I was perusing the aisles at Menards today and I think I found the perfect solution. Plexiglass. I can cut a plate to mount the PCB to and attach that to the case (you can see the four mounting holes in the pic). There is plenty of room for the PCB and the batteries!

phonoboxinside.jpg



I'll end up pulling the ports on the back and will use left for in, middle for ground, right for outs. I'll have spare plexiglass leftover and will, most likely, use this in the "windows", attach back with the mounting bolts (that are already there) and drill holes for RCA and ground. Is it OK to use plexiglass or do the RCA/ground need to go to something metal?

phonoboxback.jpg


Finally, I'll pull the selector knob off and use the hole to mount the on/off switch. There is a tab that the knob mounts to (looks white/yellow in the second picture). I'm hoping the remaining hole is large enough for the LCD or I can always drill it a bit larger. I'll, most likely, leave the graphics as they are or, if they really bother me, the whole side slides out and the reverse is blank.

phonoboxfront.jpg

phonoboxfrontnoknob.jpg


Now to order the parts and start building.
 
Is it OK to use plexiglass or do the RCA/ground need to go to something metal?

Now to order the parts and start building.

I have my prototype in a plastic food storage container and it works fine.

Yes get to it, there is a free timeshare presentation for the first person to complete one. :D
 
Yay!

I have my prototype in a plastic food storage container and it works fine.

Yes get to it, there is a free timeshare presentation for the first person to complete one. :D

Pics coming of my RF shielded solution. Listening now.

No, it is not finished but will look great in the living room when it replaces the Peq3.

I think silver plate is a decent barrier to RF/EMI...

CNCsilver1.jpg


CNCsilver2.jpg
 
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Pics coming of my RF shielded solution. Listening now.

No, it is not finished but will look great in the living room when it replaces the Peq3.

I think silver plate is a decent barrier to RF/EMI...

CNCsilver1.jpg


CNCsilver2.jpg

You sir are an eccentric!:D

I bet you have a gold commode seat.:yes:

What's op amps are you using?
 
You sir are an eccentric!:D

I bet you have a gold commode seat.:yes:

If I can find it like I found the box at the flea market dirt cheap, why not? :scratch2:

LME49990 SMD's on an adapter and LM49720.

I have been trying opa2134's, OPA637 SMD's on an adapter and trying OPA2604 for kicks.
 
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any PCB's left

Looks like a super-fun project. Are there any PCB's left?
 
My Digi-key order arrived today. I will get started soldering tonight. Unfortunately, once I started test-fitting things I realized the enclosure I bought for it is going to be a very tight fit - but I should be able to make it work. I'm looking forward to the project and will post pics when it's finished.
 
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