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Another Super High End Phono Stage! No expense spared...

Andy_H said:
Good advice here. Another helpful thing that I always use is a magnifying glass to closely inspect each joint for good coverage, no holes or excess solder (perhaps leading to a solder bridge). I only solder one or two components to the board at a time and inspect each joint under the magnifier as soon as I make it. Triple-check each component and its position before applying solder and touch up any joint that looks potentially iffy before moving on to the next. This can save you a lot of headache and wasted time later on. A good solder joint will have a nice shiny silvery sheen to it.

It takes a little practice, but patience and careful work will get you places. The only way to learn is by doing, so dive in and have fun.
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That nice shiny, silvery sheen will be there for lead/tin solder. If you have to use lead free (ROHS) solder it will look dull and like a "cold" joint no matter what you do. So those of us overseas in ROHS complaint countries, you want to practice a lot before starting on a good circuit board. You will not have the visual indicator of a good hot joint to go by.

Shelly_D
 
Hi,

My MIcro Seiki MB-14 arrived today, which I bought it from an AK member.I have paired CNC with it.I am using shure M55e cart.I have not heard many high end phonostages but CNC sounds definitely better from most of the phono pres I heard.




REgards,
Sachin
 

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Very handsome combination.

At this point if I were you I would call your preamp/turntable combo complete and if I got the urge to upgrade I would look to other parts of the system. That is a nice setup.

Shelly_D
 
shelly_d said:
Very handsome combination.

At this point if I were you I would call your preamp/turntable combo complete and if I got the urge to upgrade I would look to other parts of the system. That is a nice setup.

Shelly_D
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Thanks Shelly
Yes I am very happy with this combo.

Regards,
Sachin
 
sachu888 said:
Hi,

My MIcro Seiki MB-14 arrived today, which I bought it from an AK member.I have paired CNC with it.I am using shure M55e cart.I have not heard many high end phonostages but CNC sounds definitely better from most of the phono pres I heard.

REgards,
Sachin
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There ya go. Nice setup. What power amp/speaker combo are are you driving that with. Oh and nice coffee cup there. Fiat is coming to the USA again.

Cheers,

Bob
 
bobrown14 said:
There ya go. Nice setup. What power amp/speaker combo are are you driving that with. Oh and nice coffee cup there. Fiat is coming to the USA again.

Cheers,

Bob
Click to expand...

Thanks Bob,
My set up is very basic,Technics-Su-8022 Amp,Sony bookshelf speaker,and Shure M55e cartridge.I think Fiat is already in US, selling their cute 500 model and Freemount.

Regards,

Sachin
 
Has anyone tried listening with different resistive loadings? Am curious to know how much difference can be perceived when you switch the switches.

I haven't got my RCA jacks attached yet so haven't even applied power.

.
 
Stupid question(s) time again:

1) Does the wire running to/from the ground terminal on the case have to go/connect to the +/- battery wires that go to ground on the board or can it just be (say with an o-ring terminal) be screwed onto one of the four corners where the board mounts to the case?

2) Do I have this correct that one battery + and one battery - connect together and run to the ground on the PCB board?

3) For the LED. Do I have to wire inline (splice the wire) for the wire running to the PCB (noting polarity), or can I just wire to the switch terminal (PCB side)? Would it go - LED to resistor to PCB - terminal on the switch (then + to PCB + terminal on the switch)?

4) For RCA jacks/wiring.... if I have a small portion of copper showing, do I need heatshrink to the RCA jack connection or tin the rest of the wire or is it OK to leave alone? If I do nothing, will it pick up on noise? It's maybe 2-3 mm at the most.
 
dodog said:
Stupid question(s) time again:

1) Does the wire running to/from the ground terminal on the case have to go/connect to the +/- battery wires that go to ground on the board or can it just be (say with an o-ring terminal) be screwed onto one of the four corners where the board mounts to the case?

2) Do I have this correct that one battery + and one battery - connect together and run to the ground on the PCB board?

Hi,
For grounding and battery connection take ref from the pic posted by Shelly_d in post#317. It helped me too.

Regards,

Sachin
Click to expand...
 
dodog said:
Stupid question(s) time again:

1) Does the wire running to/from the ground terminal on the case have to go/connect to the +/- battery wires that go to ground on the board or can it just be (say with an o-ring terminal) be screwed onto one of the four corners where the board mounts to the case?

2) Do I have this correct that one battery + and one battery - connect together and run to the ground on the PCB board?

3) For the LED. Do I have to wire inline (splice the wire) for the wire running to the PCB (noting polarity), or can I just wire to the switch terminal (PCB side)? Would it go - LED to resistor to PCB - terminal on the switch (then + to PCB + terminal on the switch)?

4) For RCA jacks/wiring.... if I have a small portion of copper showing, do I need heatshrink to the RCA jack connection or tin the rest of the wire or is it OK to leave alone? If I do nothing, will it pick up on noise? It's maybe 2-3 mm at the most.
Click to expand...



1 & 2. You have two batteries side by side with the positive and negative terminals next to each other, run a wire between the middle negative and positive and then to the ground connection on the PCB, you can run your case ground and turntable ground from this as well.

3. For the LED connect the 8.2k resistor to the positive out terminal (the one that goes to the positive in on the PCB) on your switch, the other end of the resistor lead goes to the longest lead of the LED (positive). Then connect the other LED lead to the negative out terminal of the switch. If you connect the LED to the battery side of the switch it will be on all the time.

4. It doesn't matter if their is bare wire showing from the RCA connections as long as it's not touching anything else you will be fine.
 
OK, it all makes sense now. Hopefully my Digikey order will be here tomorrow and I can really get going.
 
Look carefully and you will see that chassis ground, L&R channel shields and the common point between the two batteries are all tied together.

.
 
ghazzer said:
Look carefully and you will see that chassis ground, L&R channel shields and the common point between the two batteries are all tied together.

.
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If you're talking about the PCB, I'm a bit new to all this. It's all pretty Greek to me. I'm slowly grasping what's going on but always appreciate pictorial and verbose (and dumbed down) feedback.
 
ghazzer said:
Has anyone tried listening with different resistive loadings? Am curious to know how much difference can be perceived when you switch the switches.

I haven't got my RCA jacks attached yet so haven't even applied power.

.
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I have and there is a big difference, less loading, the more rolloff. I kept mine at stock 47k, but some records could use the 33k setting to tame the highs. It's a great feature and you can taylor the sound to your liking.
 
G'day mate, actually there is a point of confusion here as so-called 'less loading' (in terms of a lower number eg '33 k'), actually 'increases' the loading on the cartridge.

33k is actually a heavier resistive load than 47 k, for example. Increasing the loading causes the upper treble to roll off.

It's an inverse sort of situation. So essentially, the lower the 'number' the more the loading. Regards, Felix aka catman.
 
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catman said:
G'day mate, actually there is a point of confusion here as so-called 'less loading' (in terms of a lower number eg '33 k'), actually 'increases' the loading on the cartridge.

33k is actually a heavier resistive load than 47 k, for example. Increasing the loading causes the upper treble to roll off.

It's an inverse sort of situation. Regards, Felix aka catman.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the clarification. I kind of thought that was the case. :music:
 
dodog said:
If you're talking about the PCB, I'm a bit new to all this. It's all pretty Greek to me. I'm slowly grasping what's going on but always appreciate pictorial and verbose (and dumbed down) feedback.
Click to expand...

OK. This pic is from Hypnotoad's post #106 on page 8. I have colored all the ground paths blue.

.
 

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