FWIW, What I`ve done a few times successfully in the past, is find a nut that fits the original screw sand and clean with denatured alcohol the underside of the stripped out hole`s area and nut, then mix up a small amount of J B Weld 2 part Epoxy and mildly silicon grease the screw`s threads to prevent any chance of any of the J B Weld from adhering to the screw/nut threads.
I also wished to not have a slightly oversized different bolt for the lid`s stripped attachment point !
Apply a puddle of J B Weld to the underside of the lip surrounding the hole building up around the nut`s flat sides, and carefully hold the nut and fully tighten the screw, and then leave over night for full cure, next morning the stripped out hole no longer a issue.
First time I did this was when I found out when I went repaint my Generac whole house back genset`s top cover, that one of the lids machined screw`s panel hole had been stripped by a "over torque dork" at the factory during assembly in the winter of 1999 !
Yrs. later after repairing using my method above, even though the area where the repair was made is subjected to the sustained 3,600 RPM engine vibration and the fan blown radiator/muffler heat exhaust vents in the genset`s top cover inches away from the epoxied nut repair and through a handful of hurricane caused sustained grid outages, was that when I last removed the cover to have it professionally painted ~10 yrs. later, the epoxied stripped out hole replacement repair nut was still holding up.
