AR XA Tonearm repair

[mccuskerkt]

Hi, I acquired my first turntable, a single motor, real wood (not veneer) AR XA that is in very good cosmetic condition, it even has the original tonearm rest and the headshell nubs are fully intact. After doing some research I have learned that this is not usually the case, so I would like to keep this thing as stock as possible. The problem is that the bearings are shot and the tonearm "wobbles" on its spindle, meaning that I will never be able to set up the table properly. After breifly looking over a few articles on vinylnirvana, this doesnt look like too hard of a task to undertake. Or so I thought... these tiny screws will not budge. Any suggestions?

 

[KrisM]

On mine the screw on the other side moved, but the one you are showing didn't. I managed to get things set fine by adjusting the other screw. There are some very knowledgeable AR people here that will probably be along soon to give more(and better) advice about these screws. There are also a few other easy tweaks that can be done to that arm that will improve it.

 

[mccuskerkt]

Neither of those suckers wants to budge.

 

[12ax7]

The arm has been rewired, so more than likely those screws have been out before. Try tightening them to see if they'll break loose. As you probably already know, use the tightest freshest screwdriver bit you have.

Edit: Also, you may want to unscrew the tonearm spindle from below and lay the arm on it's side on a rag to give yourself better leverage and "oomph"

 

[Big Bill]

PM sent.

 

[beatcomber]

I had the same problem when I wanted to adjust the overhang for a different cartridge... I couldn't get the screws to unscrew. I decided not to tempt fate and kept the original Shure cartridge mounted.

 

[mccuskerkt]

@12ax7
I borrowed that picture from vinylnirvana because I was at work when I started the tread. Mine has never been rewired.
In fact, now that I am near the tt, I will post a picture...

 

[mccuskerkt]

Here is the tt, and both screws.

 

[mech986]

maybe some penetrating oil or MEK if they used some varnish or sealant on the screw? But would suggest removal of the tonearm from the table if possible before using as either could stain or damage the top plate surface coating.

 

[12ax7]

I borrowed that picture from vinylnirvana because I was at work when I started the tread. Mine has never been rewired...

That's good, that other wire looked way too thick, to the point that it may impede arm movement.

As mech986 suggested, a drop or two of penetrating oil left to soak on the screws for a while may help. Trying to tighten a frozen screw or bolt is an old trick. It seems counterintuitive, but it sometimes works.

You'll have to unscrew the spindle from the arm to remove it, the wire is too short otherwise. You seem to have done some research so you probably know that there is a single ball bearing at the bottom of the spindle well. Be ready to catch it if you remove the spindle from the well.

 

[Nat]

Probably glued in -- a bit of solvent or penetrating oil might help. I hope the poster who talked of adjusting overhang was trying to loosen the screw at the base of the armtube.
The wire that AR used are actually very thin, but there is a woven hum screen around the actual wires. And AR twisted the wires to limit resistance, and made the resistance function as antiskating.

 

[KrisM]

It looks like the damping system is still in place. I would suggest you read up on how to remove it.
We should also make sure the wobble is not where the spindle screws into the arm.

 

[12ax7]

Any luck with the screws?

 

[mccuskerkt]

@12ax7, I haven't had a chance to try anything. I have been Working full-time, part-time college, and we are moving into our new house. I hate how life gets in the way of the fun stuff, like TT restoration
@Nat,
Should i be concerned about that resistance-antiskate feature if I decide to rewire the tonearm?

 

[Sam Cogley]

It's not hard to thread the new wires through the shielding. Go to a fabric store and get a big needle, thread the four wires through the eye and gently work the needle down the center of the braided shield.

 

[KentTeffeteller]

I had an arm with bad wiring and worn bearing. My XA went into storage. I was given a Mayware Formula IV unipivot tonearm and it was easily adaptable to my XA so it became a Redneck Linn. I use a Stanton 681 EEE-S II

 

[Nat]

If, as Sam suggests, you can salvage the shielding braid, I would do so -- anything to diminish hum is a good idea. And you might as well put the bend/coil in the wire for whatever antiskating it provides. But AR's official position was that raising the tracking force a quarter of a gram did as much to solve skating as antiskating mechanisms did. Don't know if this is correct, but it gives you permission to not worry about it.

 

[audiojones]

It looks like the damping system is still in place. I would suggest you read up on how to remove it.
We should also make sure the wobble is not where the spindle screws into the arm.

Excellent advice, and this should be your starting point. If you have not determined that the wobble is not coming from the connection point where the spindle screws into the bottom of the arm (where the foam washer used to go for the old damping system) do so before attempting to loosen or tighten the bearing screws. Also it would be very wise to remove the pin and disable the arm dampening system as mentioned above.

 

[mccuskerkt]

Thanks for the help guys, I will certainly investigate the wobble's epicenter. I have read that the damping system doesn't hold up as well as the rest of the table.

 

[KrisM]

Thanks for the help guys, I will certainly investigate the wobble's epicenter. I have read that the damping system doesn't hold up as well as the rest of the table.

It was shot on mine and caused me all kinds of trouble. Some records tracked perfect, others couldn't get past the first minute or so. I never knew if the damping was disabled or not. It was a big improvement when I took it out.