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Are any of these turntables worth looking at?

mywallethurt

New Member
Looking to upgrade from AT-LP60. I have the opportunity to buy these turntables, I don't expect you guys to look at the entire list, but if any of them you think are excellent let me know. Thanks!

Technics SL-D2
Technics SL-B2
Technics SL-D202
JVC L-E600
Technics SL-1700 !!!!
Dual CS 514
Dual 650-RC
Santo TP 220
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Pionner PL-1120
Sansui FR-D35
Hitachi HT-1
Dual 1212
JVC L-A110
Technics SL-BD20
Akai AP-A101
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Technics SL-Q202
Sanyo TP 727
Marantz TT 2200
Denon DP-23F
Technics SL-BD27
Pionner PL-460
Perpetuum-Ebner PE 3060
Realistic Lab 500 (RL500)
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Sansui P-L41
Technics SL-BD20D
Hitachi HT-205
Kenwood K034-R
Akai AP-001C
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Dual CS 606
 
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Any of the Duals worth looking at?

They should all be a step up for you, and at the right price, I might consider one of those Duals, but they're not as revered as the 1229, 1226, or other wood plinth models. I'd prefer the Dual 650-RC over the other, but it's always subjective, and condition should be a significant factor in your decision with any of them.
 
How much does each one weigh?

Start there...

Buy the heaviest one...

Edit: Dual, Elac, Rim drives are in a different catagory.

Direct Drive and Belt Drive are two other catagorys...

Stupid turn tables...
 
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Add that Dual cs606 to the list. May not have the street rep of the big idlers or the 7-series Direct Drives, but its a solid direct Drive performer.
The proprietary ULM cartridge system is a bit limiting but there are aftermarket adapters for standard cartridges available.
 
What everyone else said, especially the weight. The bottom AKAI also looks like it could be a sleeper, I'd probably buy it just to match some of my limited AKAI Gear.

Most of these are fairly plasticy models from the early 80's, out of that bunch I'd swing towards the Technics just because they were solid performers for the price. The models that are a little older should be a better builds and might be a better value but you might have to put some time in cleaning all the moving metal parts that tend to stick over time.

The list looks like the guy was hitting up the local Goodwills, we used to see most of these models on a regular basis for ten to fifteen bones.
 
I would stretch for a sorted-out Technics direct drive table. I have an SL1600 and an SL1700, so I'd say the SL1700 is the way to go if that's the only one you can get ahold of. In general, the less automatization, the less things can go wrong, but I think even the fully auto direct drive tables aren't crazy hard to repair. Plus, because there are so many out there I'd imagine it wouldn't be hard to find parts (except for a few well-known ones—). YMMV...
 
Here is how to end up with a nice turntable for not very much money:
1. Look for any Japanese made turntable with a wood base. These are older so the price is usually good, and I have never seen one that wasn't made well. They usually have a good arm and heavy platter, 2 most important things.
2. Any JVC with the model starting with QL. These are all really good and inexpensive.
 
Technics SL-1700! :thumbsup: I have the SL-1650 which is the changer version of 1600 (fully auto)/1700 (semi-auto)/1800 (manual). All of these models are built like a tank, heavy!
 
I would take a real good look at the cartridges mounted on the turntables you are looking at. Some real nice carts out there that could be worth more than the table itself.
 
It kind of depends on price and condition. I would not pay top dollar for anything on that list, but would consider the better ones for the right price if in excellent cosmetic and working condition.
 
I wouldn't choose a turntable that can't fit a standard 1/2" cartridge.
For example the Dual 650RC and the technics sl-bd20 use proprietory/non standard cartridges (ulm, t4p) and that severely limit's your choice.

ULM is not a big problem, you can use adapter.


In my opinion most Dual with ULM has standard headshell option too. At least CS741Q has both. All Dual quartz lock direct drives are good.
 
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