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AU-517/717 Selector coupling

R

ronian2002

New Member
I have an AU-517 where the selector switch internal coupling is missing causing the selector to be useless. The original part was made of plastic and had a spline internal design to adhere to the selector shaft. Can anyone tell me an alternative coupling I can use to remedy this issue.

Thank you
 
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Do you still have the metal shaft? Just missing the 1" plastic piece? Or whatever size.

I wonder if fuel line would work. Cut a piece and stick it on there.

Also, someone must have one in their parts bin. I'll take a look if I think about it when I get home.

Rob
 
If you can attach a picture of the 2 shafts that this connects to, I will look to see if it is the same as the one used on the Sansui 8080db and 9090db. I may have a spare of the latter.
 
Robisme said:
Do you still have the metal shaft? Just missing the 1" plastic piece? Or whatever size.

I wonder if fuel line would work. Cut a piece and stick it on there.

Also, someone must have one in their parts bin. I'll take a look if I think about it when I get home.

Rob
Click to expand...
All the parts are in the amp. The coupling snapped and I could only find half of it.
 
Full line is very thick, and if the inside diameter was smaller than the splined part of the shafts, and forced over the shafts, it might work.
Could even twist a small piece of bailing type wire around it to hold in place. I know it would be hokey, but better than it not working at all,
until you find the right piece.

But like I said, someone will have something that works. Sorry, I did not have a chance to look yesterday.

Rob
 
It appears that one shaft is splined, and the other is a split shaft. Is that correct?
 
It looks like a part that could be made for you with a 3D printer... check with a local high school and see if there is teacher with a student that could help you out. It's do-able.
 
funny, i have the exact same mishap happen last night on a 890 receiver! Was trying to get the dial lamps to work by exercising the selector knob when the coupler broke.... I found the 2 pieces and i am in the process of epoxying them back together..
 
6mm to 6mm flexible shaft coupling:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...gclid=CJjmw8bupM4CFQEFaQodbHEC6w&gclsrc=aw.ds

That one is 20mm diameter, so needs 7mm inside clearance to fit without interfering with anything on the input/phono board. There's one on Amazon that just needs 6mm:
https://www.amazon.com/CNBTR-Steppe...-34&keywords=6mm+x+6mm+flexible+shaft+coupler

Might have to wrap the ends of the rods in something like copper foil to get the right diameter and a snug fit, but it's doable.

https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Condu...=8-1&keywords=copper+foil+conductive+adhesive

(need conductive adhesive to make sure the front panel knob is grounded)
 
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Robisme said:
Full line is very thick, and if the inside diameter was smaller than the splined part of the shafts, and forced over the shafts, it might work.
Could even twist a small piece of bailing type wire around it to hold in place. I know it would be hokey, but better than it not working at all,
until you find the right piece.

But like I said, someone will have something that works. Sorry, I did not have a chance to look yesterday.

Rob
Click to expand...

I also heard that (new - not used) car brake hose was good for this, stiffer than fuel line and tougher, as it has to withstand much more pressure, add 2 'jubilee clips' - or plastic ty-wraps and it should work, although this solution may be far too bulky. Include a loop of tinned copper wire between the two shafts as per the original.

The Fuxtor said:
funny, i have the exact same mishap happen last night on a 890 receiver! Was trying to get the dial lamps to work by exercising the selector knob when the coupler broke.... I found the 2 pieces and i am in the process of epoxying them back together..
Click to expand...

You'll be lucky if that holds, good luck.

EW's links above is the surest way in my humble opinion.
 
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Many flex couplings availabile on fleabay as well. Most use set screws to secure. My suggestions would be the following

On the splined shaft, get a piece of metal, or even a piece of tiewrap, to insert inside the cut on the shaft, so you don't break off one of the sides when tightening the set screws. If the other side is split shaft (only a semi circle), make another semi circle out of aluminum or wood that you can use to fill the gap on the shaft, to allow the set screws to be more secure.

A coupling I saw on fleabay that sells for less than a buck
6x6mm CNC Motor Jaw Shaft Coupler 6mm To 6mm Flexible Coupling OD 22x15mm E0
 
Are they split? I can't remember... If so, the 'split' will need to be filled with something.
 
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