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Best allignment method on Technics SL-D3

Maybe I will use the Technics 52mm-alignment when I buy the white thing from KAB or get a hold of it somewhere else. But until then, I'll probably stick the protractor from VE.
As for the looks of the placement, I really don't care that much. For now.
 
I knew that! But when I tried to place the cart in the position that the tip of the stylus exactly 52mm from the end of the rubber ring, I accidentaly touched the stylus a few times and decided to do it the more safer way - putting the headshell on the arm and using the paper protractor I printed.

I'll give a chance to Baerwald alignment first, if I won't be satisfied, I'll align it like Technics recommends.

To me, it seemed that the easy way was not so easy, maybe if I get a milimeter-paper it will become easier...

Also, if I'll hear distortion on inner grooves that is unbearable, that'll also be the sign to change it to 52mm-placement.

But, I'm really interested in how many of the Technics users use the 52mm-method and how many other methods and which.
 
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Actually it also depends on which cartridge you used. If you are using the Denon DL103with Technics standard headshell for example, you will never be able to align it using the Baerwald Technics Protractors. So for my case, I actually use the Stevenson protractor for this Denon cart unless I use a aftermarket headshell, then I will be able to use the Baerwald protractor to get the correct alignment.
 
Using a ruler is very difficult to do accurately -- all sorts of parallax errors are very easy to make since you are reading at a distance from the stylus and from the ruler, while holding two things, one of which is loose. Using something like a caliper is better, but is still more difficult, and, as the OP notes, more dangerous than using the Technics tool.
I have an very hard time thinking that anyone using a ruler can be confident that they can reliably read a difference of .886 mm.
 
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@ jdeng1991:
True, haven't thought of that. Of course it depends of the cart, too. Because of the position of the screws in it. Which Technics do you have, earlier models have slightly different headshells (those with one screw on the top)?

@ Nat:
We agree on that. Using a regular (school) ruler is inaccurate and potentially dangerous for the stylus. At least it was for me.
 
Sultan swing said:
I knew that! But when I tried to place the cart in the position that the tip of the stylus exactly 52mm from the end of the rubber ring, I accidentaly touched the stylus a few times and decided to do it the more safer way - putting the headshell on the arm and using the paper protractor I printed.

I'll give a chance to Baerwald alignment first, if I won't be satisfied, I'll align it like Technics recommends.

To me, it seemed that the easy way was not so easy, maybe if I get a milimeter-paper it will become easier...

Also, if I'll hear distortion on inner grooves that is unbearable, that'll also be the sign to change it to 52mm-placement.

But, I'm really interested in how many of the Technics users use the 52mm-method and how many other methods and which.
Click to expand...

Best of luck in setting up your cartridge with which ever manner you decide on.
Persevere, you will get it done!:music:
 
Sultan swing said:
@ jdeng1991:
True, haven't thought of that. Of course it depends of the cart, too. Because of the position of the screws in it. Which Technics do you have, earlier models have slightly different headshells (those with one screw on the top)?
Click to expand...


I have the 1210mk2 and with the standard headshell the Denon doesn't work with Baerwald. There is one forumer here using the Ortofon SH-4 headshell for the Denon. I'm might just try this combo.
 
Hello to Croatia first :)
So the Cart arrived I figure...

Ok... u are talking lots about aligning the angle of the cart parallel to the grid... isn't it the cantilever of the stylus that u should have an eye on??
I very seldom have even new carts where the cantilever comes out in totally exact angle...
So if you align the cart's body, the cantilever may be off....
 
Hello to you, too, Dynacophil!
Yes, the AT95e arrived this tuesday and I mounted it! It seems to me that the cantilever in this particular cart was totally vertical to the cart itself, it wasn't off, at least not eye-visible. So this made it easier to align it! I checked it yesterday more thural and aligned it again.

I'm very very satisfied with the Technics-A/T combo!
 
Hey, I don't mean to thread jack but I gave up on the Technics alignment tool and used the Technics arc from VE but I had to push the cart ALL the way to the front (more so then the original poster had to). Does that look normal?

photo4.jpg


So far I seem to get better sound than the alignment tool was giving me but I'm just worried that it's too forward or something. Sorry for all the questions and issues but I just want to make sure I'm doing this right. I spent many years with cheap turntables and never knew how to properly set up til now. Once again thanks in advance.
 
what makes the at95e such a useful cartridge in addition to its sound is that the stylus tip is a good distance ahead of the cartridge body mounting slots...which in turn allows an extra mm or two forward movement in a headshell with short slot lengths...

also..it has a long exposed cantilever which thankfully always seems quite true vertically in relation to the cartridge body...

which brings me to the point of alignment..
if you did prefer baerwald..and you found it easy enough to get the cartridge body to align to the baerwald grid lines...and your protractor is printed to scale....then..have a look at the cartridge from the front when the stylus tip is sitting on the null point itself...

see that grid line that intersects the null point at 90 degress and runs from front to back ?...
if you close one eye and look directly down the front of the cartridge at the stylus cantilever as it rises up into the cartridge body....it should sit directly above the grid line that is underneath it... without veering left or right...
use a rolled up tube of paper as a 'tunnel' to look at it if it makes this observation easier...

if you can make this final 'tiny' adjustment at first the inner null point and then the outer null point ...and this usually involves rotating the cartridge a fraction in the headshell once you have set the effective length to get a 'fairly close' alignment at both null points'... then tighten up the screws enough to hold the cartidge reasonably steady....
re check that the stylus cantilever hovers 'exactly' above the inner and outer grid lines that intersects both inner and outer null points when the diamond tip is on the null point itself...
if one is a fraction out ...align the cantilever most closely to the inner grid line that intersect the inner null point when the diamond is sitting on the null point itself.. tighten up the screws...
and forget it for the next 600 hours or so...:thmbsp:

p.s. leave your antiskate set to zero...and your downforce to something like 1.2gm if you do this final alignment tweak... then reset downforce and antiskate to recommended settings once you're happy the stylus cantilever itself is aligned...
 
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Useful tips, melofelo! Thanks!

Miguel, it seems to me that your AT95e is a little tilted in left and that would be a result of Baerwald. Why is your cart so much in front, I really can't say - maybe the difference in headshells?

Did you measure the AA' and BB' distances when you printed the Technics Baerwald Arc Protractor from VE? If you did, and it's exactly as it should be, then I believe you don't have to worry why is it so much in front...

Here a shot of mine, taken exactly 1 min ago.

alignment.jpg
 
I think it's irrelevant.
To be really precise, you can put a record (that you won't regret scratching).
But, I really don't believe that that would have made a difference in alignment.

I didn't put it. But when I get home, I'll put an old record under the protractor and check if it made any difference.
 
It's going to be forward with Baerwald, but with downloaded protractors it's always important to check to see that its printed to scale -- often they are somewhat off, depending on the printer etc.
 
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