Best and Most Cost Effective TT Upgrades

[mfsibbald]

I'm only really getting into all the tweaking and upgrades/mods for vinyl so this is a strictly off the cuff feeling, but isn't cork kind of "crumbly" for use as a mat? Does it not have a tendency to break off and leave pieces on the record or in the turntable? I know I've seen cork mats all over but that question has always nagged at me.

The cork gasket material is very durable and not crumbly at all. I cant say how it will be 20 years from now as its a natural product. But I can assure you that it is not crumbly in the least. One of the reasons I made my own was because I could go to the store and tangibly feel the cork and the rubber. Buying it online is difficult, they are expensive and you never know what your buying till it shows up.

 

[mfsibbald]

A brand new stylus is a good start.

agree to that, many of the old Shure cartridges have a plethora of choices from very inexpensive to pretty pricey.

I have two Shure M91 carts and bought the entry level Jico replacements for them and found them both far better than the old originals, The original ones may have been better when new but now they have seem mileage and time take their toll.

 

[mfsibbald]

I'd like to throw in a few more "big bang for the buck" upgrades but these apply to the Technics SL-1200. The first addresses the platter. Untreated, it rings like a gong. The 1200mk2 actually comes with a rubber mat glued to the battom of the platter but it's glued so poorly, it's not effective at all. Rip off the rubber, scrape off the old glue and put on a layer of Dynamat Extreem. Make a template from a sheet of paper first tho'.
Another really cheap mod is take a length of shrink tubing, just big enough in diameter to slip over the nut that secures the headshell and shrink it in place on the tonearm tube. This cuta down on resonance the cartridge gets from tha tonearm.

I was wondering about the shrink tube idea. Does the shrink tube have any adhesive on the inside, As in if I decided to take it off later will it mess up the looks of the arm?

 

[mfsibbald]

This thread has taken more than a few turns but back to your basic question on low cost upgrades.

Yes, proper cartridge alignment is critical and it should be a given when comparing turntables. Good interconnects are important too. Shielded, low capacitiance, good quality RCAs all important. Some cable sounds better than others? That subject is has been beaten to death here.

Some other low cost upgrades:

1 - Vibration control. Add Mass. Many use modeling clay to fill voids and add mass. This is commonly done to the resin/plastic type bases. Sometimes a dab of Blutack in a critical area does wonders.

2. - Vibration Control - Dampen parts that ring. The use of audio damping sheets, DynaMat, or similar stick on products are also used under platters, near motor mounts, under mounting plates, near tonearm mounts, etc.

3 - Vibration Control - Isolation. Improve feet and/or improved mounting surface. Depending on the application the used of vibrapods, cones, spikes, pucks, squash balls, maple, marble, sand beds, or wall shelves. Lots of options depending on what you have and what you are trying to do.

4. Platter mat. Changing from rubber to cork or leather can make a sonic difference. Keep in mind that when you change mats you could also be changing VTA.

Hope this helps.

cheers, Bob

Hi Bob,

What is Bluetack and where do do you suggest applying it, what do you consider key areas. Suggestion sounds interesting.

 

[Dr Tinear]

Unless I missed it a few pages back, I haven't seen any mention of the Van Alstine Longhorn modification. While this is technically a cartridge mod, it works at the system level by increasing the polar moment of inertia of the arm-cartridge system. Among its benefits is a reduction in microscopic azimuth variations which leads to improved soundstaging. The free Audio Basics newsletters at www.avahifi.com provide full instructions on how to build and install a Longhorn bar.

 

[4-2-7]

I ment the original post your thread start. To me it comes off aragent and that you know so much and to validate that by posting a list of tables. You then go on to tell us how important setup is and changing IC. All the while making condisending comments about gear that cost money. Then as we are all supposed to listen to you we find out that truthfully you don't set up a table correctly.

So that's what I ment about how your post comes across to others. At lest other that have experience and have past what your trying to do with your level of tables. You have a budget fine, we all do. You want to collect tables that's fine but to think bailing wire and duck tape is the way to SQ because your budget is expended owning more tables than needed to play a record is goofy.

That's why my first post, people complain about the cost of some components but yet have the money to buy every deck that presents its self.

 

[mfsibbald]

I ment the original post your thread start. To me it comes off aragent and that you know so much and to validate that by posting a list of tables. You then go on to tell us how important setup is and changing IC. All the while making condisending comments about gear that cost money. Then as we are all supposed to listen to you we find out that truthfully you don't set up a table correctly.

So that's what I ment about how your post comes across to others. At lest other that have experience and have past what your trying to do with your level of tables. You have a budget fine, we all do. You want to collect tables that's fine but to think bailing wire and duck tape is the way to SQ because your budget is expended owning more tables than needed to play a record is goofy.

That's why my first post, people complain about the cost of some components but yet have the money to buy every deck that presents its self.

I got that. I get what your saying. I also get you don't care for my approach. That's OK with me too, if you feel my original post was arrogant I cant help that. I was trying to qualify my experiences and trying to introduce the budget concept by mentioning the tables I have.

I am not sure why you continue to be apart of this thread if the basic premise of the thread seems to annoy you, and you find me arrogant

This is my last post in reply to this conversation. Its not constructive or helpful.

Peace

 

[mfsibbald]

Unless I missed it a few pages back, I haven't seen any mention of the Van Alstine Longhorn modification. While this is technically a cartridge mod, it works at the system level by increasing the polar moment of inertia of the arm-cartridge system. Among its benefits is a reduction in microscopic azimuth variations which leads to improved soundstaging. The free Audio Basics newsletters at www.avahifi.com provide full instructions on how to build and install a Longhorn bar.

I am not familiar with the article, and I am not familiar with most of the terms you have used. I will definitely take a look at it when I have a little extra time.

 

[4-2-7]

Actually I feel your a nice person but was just stating how I read your first post.
Done deal.

 

[N8Nagel]

I was wondering about the shrink tube idea. Does the shrink tube have any adhesive on the inside, As in if I decided to take it off later will it mess up the looks of the arm?

Depends on what you buy. For electrical work I buy adhesive lined shrink tube, but you can buy some without the adhesive lining if you wish.

 

[Ken Boyd]

Unless I missed it a few pages back, I haven't seen any mention of the Van Alstine Longhorn modification. While this is technically a cartridge mod, it works at the system level by increasing the polar moment of inertia of the arm-cartridge system. Among its benefits is a reduction in microscopic azimuth variations which leads to improved soundstaging. The free Audio Basics newsletters at www.avahifi.com provide full instructions on how to build and install a Longhorn bar.

Dr, I think you gave us the wrong link, I was interested in reading the modification but the link only shows items for sale.

 

[Ken Boyd]

Ok I found it, you had to dig into the news letters, here is a link to the correct newsletter, its about five pages down I think.


http://www.avahifi.com/images/avahifi/root/audio_basics/ab_pdf/ab1982.pdf

 

[Vintagear]

I got that. I get what your saying. I also get you don't care for my approach. That's OK with me too, if you feel my original post was arrogant I cant help that. I was trying to qualify my experiences and trying to introduce the budget concept by mentioning the tables I have.

I am not sure why you continue to be apart of this thread if the basic premise of the thread seems to annoy you, and you find me arrogant

This is my last post in reply to this conversation. Its not constructive or helpful.

Peace

Shheeeesh... Kudos to you! Your original post could not have been any clearer. I bet this went through your mind more than one time throughout this thread.

Many offered good suggestions that were true to the spirit of the OP. Unfortunately they kinda got lost with all of the irrelevant noise and distractions.

 

[Mojo Warrior]

Too bad the trolls took over this thread it has potential. I like your ideas.

You have an awesome collection of TT to experiment with and several of them will yield outstanding results.

There have been no technological breakthroughs in turntables, tonearms and cartridges since the 1970s which was the peak of the TT market. It has developed into a cottage industry relying on ancient technology. The great TTs of the 1970s sound the same as the TTs of today.

The most critical parts of a stereo system are the transducers, i.e. the cartridge and speakers. These are most inaccurate links in the audio chain and will demonstrate the biggest differences in sound. Electronics and cables are very linear and have minor differences. However, it all comes down to personal preferences, as there are no "perfect" speakers or cartridges for everyone.

Consider:

Plasti-clay or Plasticene to add mass to the plinth
Herbies has small tube dampers that can be added to the tonearm to dampen vibration
Better isolation feet
Sandbox to place the TT inside
Wall mounting if you have suspended floors
Longhorn modification as described by Van Alstine
Record clamps or a modified hockey puck (drill a hole in the center)
Dynamat or the stuff they sell at Lowes for gutters (same stuff) to dampen the vibrating parts [Peal & Seal $16.48]
Blue tac or generic poster tack to dampen headshells and cartridges
DeOxit contact points

 

[Rybeam]

A bubble level is a good investment.

 

[Gibsonian]

To add mass I have double bagged sand and placed/taped the ziplok bags in the plinth. I like it better than Plasticlay and it's heavier.

 

[illini]

RCM.

I agree.

 

[mfsibbald]

So I recently serviced a Dual 1229 that had no left channel. Turned out to be bad tone arm cables. Complete garbage wires from factory....but anyway. Some people may not like my solution but it turned out extremely well. I salvaged the fine wire from an old parallel printer cable and wired it through to cartridge with new cartridge clips direct to the cartridge bypassing the goofy cartridge sled contacts, those little spring contacts that loose all their spring. (stupid design).

Test played it and found that the stiffness of the wire had an impact on the arm movement....failed fix and experiment.

Went back to the junk bin of electronics and pulled out an old serial cable mouse. Stripped the jacket and found some excellent quality, beautifully flexible wire. I went ahead and Litz braided the wires into a nice flat strip and pulled it through. 45 minutes of soldering and have a fantastic finished product.

Serial mouse wire is a great upgrade and a very affordable option compared to the commercially available wires. I have used the other tonearm wire from Cardas and some other brand (i dont recall name). Other than than the colour of the wires there was no discernible difference in quality, how it handled or its flexibility. If you need an arm rewired and want to do it yourself give it a try. I used shrink tube to cover the solder connections at the cartridge clip and to colour code the wires for the owner.

If you Litz braid the wire you will need a little longer length to compensate for the braiding. To braid lay out the four wires parallel to each other starting on your right. Right outermost wire goes over top of the nearest inside two wires to the left. Then on your left, left outermost wire goes over the nearest inside wire to the right (just one wire). Then repeat until you have the length of braid needed. Keep the braids fairly snug and neat.

When you braid it this way the wire "loom" lays flat and has no tendency to pull one way or the other, if you simply twist wires together the tendency of the wire is to untwist and when both ends are fixed the result is a "pull" on the tonearm. The braiding took about 20 minutes, I am slow and was watching TV while doing it.

 

[mfsibbald]

nothing should be here....

 

[onwardjames]

Sure enjoy this thread. Nice work on that tonearm.