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Best Headphones for under $200

This seems to be a hotly contested value-for-price point I've seen questioned frequently....Curious as I also hear most of the same suggestions: HFM He4x's, ATH M50x's, Grado's, Sennheisers, and many many more...What exactly are people looking for at this price point?

As a musician I want to make sure I can at LEAST track with accurate sounding playback, then I'd look to see if they're fun enough to watch movies with OR flat enough to mix with...other than those functional questions...headphones under $200 just have to "sound pretty good" to me. Is anyone else able to summarize "the standard" for headphones at this price point??
I believe that headphone SQ has dramatically improved in the $200 range! I simply try to come close to the performance of my speakers. I accept that headphone sound is a form of hifi that is just different from speakers, much like squash and tennis are racquet sports, but are different. Maybe not the best analogy, but maybe it conveys my beliefs? :)
 
This seems to be a hotly contested value-for-price point I've seen questioned frequently....Curious as I also hear most of the same suggestions: HFM He4x's, ATH M50x's, Grado's, Sennheisers, and many many more...What exactly are people looking for at this price point?

As a musician I want to make sure I can at LEAST track with accurate sounding playback, then I'd look to see if they're fun enough to watch movies with OR flat enough to mix with...other than those functional questions...headphones under $200 just have to "sound pretty good" to me. Is anyone else able to summarize "the standard" for headphones at this price point??

I think you already have a good understanding of the "standard", at least as I see it.

Most of the headphones I own are all suitable for tracking guitar, bass, drums and vocals. (The instruments I play.) Mixing is a different story. I will either run through my recordings using a couple different sets of differently voiced headphones to try to find a balance that works with all of them. I'll do a final run through with my studio monitors and then play the tentative outcome through my home stereo. After that, I feel comfortable opening up the mastering toolkit and proceeding to lock everything down.

The Sony MDR-7506, Audio-Technica ATH-M50x and Shure SRH-840 are all good enough for what I need and they all are great for general, pleasurable listening too.
 
Well cared for used headphones provide the opportunity for a sonic upgrade over a new regularly priced and often sale priced headphone.

However, you should keep in mind that (in general) headphones have improved over the last 10 to 15 years. Going back even longer in time, I would have "killed" for a headphones the quality of Philips Fidelio X3 from the mid 1960's to at least through the end of that century.
 
"What exactly are people looking for at this price point?"

Today "the best" headphones in this price range will offer full tonal balance of virtually the entire audible frequency range. They will accurately reproduce what is fed to them, while providing strong imaging and detail. At lest reasonable comfort should be included. In general open headphones do more of these things better than closed. On the other side of the coin, open headphones will not have the isolation for the user and much reduced sound leakage to those around that user that closed headphones offer.

At the same time many buyers of headphones within this price range are looking to fill it niche (or two). It might be active noise cancelling headphones for travel, headphones with a particular sound signature, headphones that will work well with a certain device or system, and much more.
 
I believe that headphone SQ has dramatically improved in the $200 range! I simply try to come close to the performance of my speakers. I accept that headphone sound is a form of hifi that is just different from speakers, much like squash and tennis are racquet sports, but are different. Maybe not the best analogy, but maybe it conveys my beliefs? :)
Completely heard! I agree too that headphones "have done worse" in the past, but the speaker bit was key for me: get a set that mimics your home-in front of the speakers setup the most and you'll have a close to accurate depiction of tracks.
 
I think you already have a good understanding of the "standard", at least as I see it.

Most of the headphones I own are all suitable for tracking guitar, bass, drums and vocals. (The instruments I play.) Mixing is a different story. I will either run through my recordings using a couple different sets of differently voiced headphones to try to find a balance that works with all of them. I'll do a final run through with my studio monitors and then play the tentative outcome through my home stereo. After that, I feel comfortable opening up the mastering toolkit and proceeding to lock everything down.

The Sony MDR-7506, Audio-Technica ATH-M50x and Shure SRH-840 are all good enough for what I need and they all are great for general, pleasurable listening too.
Thank you! I come from an instrumentalist background as I've always played, gigged, and gotten myself into bigger studios for my guitar playing, but have been producing for years and am learning how mindsets vary between the two. I heard some Shure's at a show once and I was very surprised to test them out and hear it a competitor to ATH M50x's. I've spent the longest time with my ATH's as they were an easy standard I grabbed when I first started producing, but now that I mix and am doing more track work in portable setups, the value for this price point is big for me in finding the most accurate representation of where the tracks are at tin the session.
 
Thank you! I come from an instrumentalist background as I've always played, gigged, and gotten myself into bigger studios for my guitar playing, but have been producing for years and am learning how mindsets vary between the two. I heard some Shure's at a show once and I was very surprised to test them out and hear it a competitor to ATH M50x's. I've spent the longest time with my ATH's as they were an easy standard I grabbed when I first started producing, but now that I mix and am doing more track work in portable setups, the value for this price point is big for me in finding the most accurate representation of where the tracks are at tin the session.
Have you checked out Beyer Dynamics cans? I have a pair of DT990 Pro's, and they sound very, very nice! They make most of my other cans sound wooly and muddy... very recommended! :)
 
Have you checked out Beyer Dynamics cans? I have a pair of DT990 Pro's, and they sound very, very nice! They make most of my other cans sound wooly and muddy... very recommended! :)
I use the 770s in most other studios I track at or at least see them sitting around. I know they're a clean, honest pair. I've never been "excited" to listen to them but...that's kind of the point/value right? I think they are more exciting than ATH and Shure options though...perhaps it's the V shaped FR curve that (I've been told) is more apparent in Beyers...Either way I'll have to grab me some 990 pros closed (I've seen many opens) for my next studio upgrade.
 
I use the 770s in most other studios I track at or at least see them sitting around. I know they're a clean, honest pair. I've never been "excited" to listen to them but...that's kind of the point/value right? I think they are more exciting than ATH and Shure options though...perhaps it's the V shaped FR curve that (I've been told) is more apparent in Beyers...Either way I'll have to grab me some 990 pros closed (I've seen many opens) for my next studio upgrade.
Is that closed back DT990 a factory issue, or a mod? :)
 
I believe that headphone SQ has dramatically improved in the $200 range! :)
Hell yeah and while it's not entirely due to Hifiman Chinese manufacturers have come a long way to produce increasingly better quality audio equipment that can match almost any Western product at one third the cost, but they're astute enough to leave most of the $1,000+ niche market to Westerners lest it attracts counterfeiters, HFM is an exception but planars are more costly to counterfeit than dynamics.
 
This seems to be a hotly contested value-for-price point I've seen questioned frequently....Curious as I also hear most of the same suggestions: HFM He4x's, ATH M50x's, Grado's, Sennheisers, and many many more...What exactly are people looking for at this price point?

As a musician I want to make sure I can at LEAST track with accurate sounding playback, then I'd look to see if they're fun enough to watch movies with OR flat enough to mix with...other than those functional questions...headphones under $200 just have to "sound pretty good" to me. Is anyone else able to summarize "the standard" for headphones at this price point??
I have no idea what "the standard" might be, but I like your ideas of fun and functionality. I prefer listening to speakers, but sometimes headphones work better for me, like when it's too early or late to play speakers in an apartment setting where I might bother the neighbors, or when ambient noise makes it difficult to hear. I've used the same pair of Koss Pro4AA headphones since the late 1980's, and they still do a great job of blocking out external noise and providing a fun, engaging performance that makes me want to keep on listening, whether music or movies.

They also seem to work great whatever I'm driving them with. I tried listening to Goldmark's Rustic Wedding via a YouTube video on my cheap laptop. The Grado SR125's were a mess, lacking any sense of pace and rhythm that would bring the music to life. I thought maybe this was just a limitation of the source, but switching to the Pro4AA's made that same performance a fun and compelling listen.
 
I have no idea what "the standard" might be, but I like your ideas of fun and functionality. I prefer listening to speakers, but sometimes headphones work better for me, like when it's too early or late to play speakers in an apartment setting where I might bother the neighbors, or when ambient noise makes it difficult to hear. I've used the same pair of Koss Pro4AA headphones since the late 1980's, and they still do a great job of blocking out external noise and providing a fun, engaging performance that makes me want to keep on listening, whether music or movies.

They also seem to work great whatever I'm driving them with. I tried listening to Goldmark's Rustic Wedding via a YouTube video on my cheap laptop. The Grado SR125's were a mess, lacking any sense of pace and rhythm that would bring the music to life. I thought maybe this was just a limitation of the source, but switching to the Pro4AA's made that same performance a fun and compelling listen.
Ah interesting insight. Grado's continue to elude consistency in reputation as some say Grado's made them audiophiles and others say they regret buying any in the first place. I'll probably hold off on looking to buy those until reputation stabilizes, but hey, it's all up yo listener's ears right? "Eye of the Beholder" type perspective. That's why thread like this are valuable as it's hard to listen to all of these in one place most of the time.
 
My major problem with Grado's in the lower priced models has nothing to do with the sound. It's the stock cushions. They feel like Steel Wool on my ears. I replaced them early on and have no other complaints.
 
Ah interesting insight. Grado's continue to elude consistency in reputation as some say Grado's made them audiophiles and others say they regret buying any in the first place. I'll probably hold off on looking to buy those until reputation stabilizes, but hey, it's all up yo listener's ears right? "Eye of the Beholder" type perspective. That's why thread like this are valuable as it's hard to listen to all of these in one place most of the time.
I wonder, too, how much some headphones are limited by what's driving them. The SR125's sound quite good using their RA1 headphone amplifier, but suffer when plugged directly into my laptop computer. My Koss Pro4AA's are more consistently good no matter what I use.
 
Can't speak to yours, but many--probably the vast majority--of lap top computers have crappy to mediocre audio out.

All wired Grados are easy to drive--even from a low powered internal battery type of device.
 
I wonder, too, how much some headphones are limited by what's driving them.
All headphones ultimately have to depend on what drives them for good performance, be it a $5K HAM/DAC or a non-restored vintage receiver rescued from a trash bin, and everything in-between. The headphone is not a device by itself, it's a component at the receiving end of a signal path that contains other elements, some of which sometimes having a more substantial effect on the end result than the cans themselves no matter how neutral said cans are supposed to sound, with a few exceptions, such as the ubiquitous studio phone Audio Technica ATH-M50x. Contrary to the ATH-M70x the 50x is not so flat as to be boring, instead it has (very) subtle coloration, just enough to infuse a little fun when using it at home but remains flat enough for studio use. I have both of them and the 70x doesn't see much action... unless I use it with a specific set of electronics, while the 50x is content with almost any headphone amp, DAC, or vintage receiver. That's one example of upstream limitations that can severely impair SQ down the wire.

Here's something more dramatic. How would you like to pay $1,500 for the Hifiman HE-X4? You wouldn't, obviously. And you'd be missing on a heck of a phone that puts all HFM 4 and 5 series to shame when driven properly. It's an inefficient double-sided planar (the 25-ohm impedance figure is irrelevant on planars) and be it just for that it craves power that is seldom available to the average buyer of a $100 phone, who usually assumes that headphone amps are the realm of finicky audiophiles and that it wouldn't make a difference anyway. However it does make a difference. Despite claims to the contrary by Drop it most definitely requires a dedicated amplifier and has to have a 1000mW (at least, one watt) balanced feed at its disposal in order to reveal its hidden talent, which it has plenty of. But that comes at a price that puts it out of the reach of most casual listeners. Also, it requires 500 (five hundred) hours of break-in to reach full maturity, at which point it sounds completely different than it did when purchased, simply fantastic and it doesn't distort and/or sizzle at moderate volume like it does when new.

You expedite the break-in process by setting your amp's volume at 12 o'clock, gain at 0dB (null), stuff the phones between pillows and feed them a continuous stream of music 24/7 for a whole month. Works wonders. With regards to headphones, this is the most extreme example of equipment-induced limitation I have ever come across. I put the effort because regardless of their so-so reputation affecting structural issues, I can't recall of a HiFiman model that sounded bad, all models taken into account.
 
All headphones ultimately have to depend on what drives them for good performance, be it a $5K HAM/DAC or a non-restored vintage receiver rescued from a trash bin, and everything in-between. The headphone is not a device by itself, it's a component at the receiving end of a signal path that contains other elements, some of which sometimes having a more substantial effect on the end result than the cans themselves no matter how neutral said cans are supposed to sound, with a few exceptions, such as the ubiquitous studio phone Audio Technica ATH-M50x. Contrary to the ATH-M70x the 50x is not so flat as to be boring, instead it has (very) subtle coloration, just enough to infuse a little fun when using it at home but remains flat enough for studio use. I have both of them and the 70x doesn't see much action... unless I use it with a specific set of electronics, while the 50x is content with almost any headphone amp, DAC, or vintage receiver. That's one example of upstream limitations that can severely impair SQ down the wire.

Here's something more dramatic. How would you like to pay $1,500 for the Hifiman HE-X4? You wouldn't, obviously. And you'd be missing on a heck of a phone that puts all HFM 4 and 5 series to shame when driven properly. It's an inefficient double-sided planar (the 25-ohm impedance figure is irrelevant on planars) and be it just for that it craves power that is seldom available to the average buyer of a $100 phone, who usually assumes that headphone amps are the realm of finicky audiophiles and that it wouldn't make a difference anyway. However it does make a difference. Despite claims to the contrary by Drop it most definitely requires a dedicated amplifier and has to have a 1000mW (at least, one watt) balanced feed at its disposal in order to reveal its hidden talent, which it has plenty of. But that comes at a price that puts it out of the reach of most casual listeners. Also, it requires 500 (five hundred) hours of break-in to reach full maturity, at which point it sounds completely different than it did when purchased, simply fantastic and it doesn't distort and/or sizzle at moderate volume like it does when new.

You expedite the break-in process by setting your amp's volume at 12 o'clock, gain at 0dB (null), stuff the phones between pillows and feed them a continuous stream of music 24/7 for a whole month. Works wonders. With regards to headphones, this is the most extreme example of equipment-induced limitation I have ever come across. I put the effort because regardless of their so-so reputation affecting structural issues, I can't recall of a HiFiman model that sounded bad, all models taken into account.
Fascinating insight. I still hear people saying break-in time either does or doesn't work for gear. Logically why could I be sold something that doesn't work out of the box, but I also understand tech can be like wine in that the more it's made routine in a setup, the more of its inherent quality (or lack there of) can be noticed, appreciated, and understood.
So you're saying the HFM 4/5s are or aren't bad budget options?
I'd have to agree with you re: M50x's as a musician myself I've used them in consumer, audiophile, and production setups and it's a great choice for all but as a jack of all trades it's hard to be a master of one, right?....Analogies aside I found this post fairly stated while offering your rather final thoughts on a few matters that sway back and forth in these forums.
I'm curious what your personal testing setup (source, DAC/Amp, anything crazy with power or cable intricacies) is that has allowed you such honest interactions with these headphones. If just personal speculation too no worries, it just sounds like you've ran all these through personal A-B tests or something I wonder how you've come about these conclusions.
 
So you're saying the HFM 4/5s are or aren't bad budget options?

They are good budget choices if you don't wish to use an upscale amp with the HE-X4. 5 series are almost extinct but make good second-hand picks if you want a little pezazz over the mainstream 4's but won't spare change for the Sundara. The later 4 models (ex HE4XX) are almost just as good as the 5's once broken in, at least to me. I hear very little difference between them.

I'd have to agree with you re: M50x's as a musician myself I've used them in consumer, audiophile, and production setups and it's a great choice for all but as a jack of all trades it's hard to be a master of one, right?...
Right, but on some setup the M50x can sound as good as higher priced mid-fi offerings.

I'm curious what your personal testing setup (source, DAC/Amp, anything crazy with power or cable intricacies) is that has allowed you such honest interactions with these headphones...

I use mainly two headphone DAC/amps. The iFi Zen DAC/preamp V2 paired with the iFi Zen CAN power amp for most mid-fi headphones, and the Simaudio Moon 430 HA D for audiophile products. I use Audioquest Yukon interconnects (short runs) for analog connections and Nippon Dics Pentaconn for the balanced connection between the iFi components. iFi's own balanced cable is ridiculously expensive. For balanced connection to headphones I use the Meze 99 series 4mm cable with the iFi setup and same cable with XLR adapter when I use the Moon 430.

EDIT: A hawkeyed member (and friend) PM'd me on Head-Fi and in an obvious alarmed mindset reminded me that I had forgotten the word "Signature" in my description of my iFi stack. There you go buddy, done. :)
 
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