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Best linear tracker under $999?

RDecartridge said:
My present turntable, a Pioneer PL-L1000, is my second linear tracker (the first, being a B&O).
The L1000 can accomodate a wide range of high quality cartridges and sounds fabulous. It is a real kick watching it work. I recommend it highly.
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:thmbsp: Yep couldn't agree more!
 
Pio1980 said:
Kent, which H-K Rabco do you recommend and why?
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If I were to recomend A H/K Rabco table, it would be the ST8 which was the last model in the line. I owned one for over 30 years and other than belts it performed flawlessly. The effective mass of the tone arm is only 5 grams, so a very high compliance cartridge is what it likes. I had good sucess with both a Sonus Blue Gold and an Ortofon OM20 super. The ST8 does not use the rubber drive wheel on the arm mechanism that disintegrates on the earlier models.

Regards,
Jim
 
The ST8 as posted earlier was the best of the Rabco linear tracking arm turntables. The rubber parts which deteriorated easily were replaced by an updated assembly which has done better over time.
 
Thnx, Just curious. I have a nicely functioning ST-7 that is not being used at present after being gone over.
 
Get an LT-30, the big brother to the LT-20, and just put it on a sturdy wall shelf or an audio rack with better isolation properties. I never had problems with my LT-20 and feedback, though.
 
I did not have a feedback problems with LT-20 either UNLESS I knock on it with the finger while playing. My other TT, a Sansui XR-Q11, has suspended platter and the tonearm so if I knock on it there are no feedback. The audio rack I use, Lowan matrix, has good isolation properties; however, a wall shelf is out of question since it will be banned by my other half:no::D.


I realize that the "finger knocking test" might not be adequate one but it shows that some decks are more feedback-prone that the others.

BTW, John, how you would compare Mitsu LT-30 with the VPI Classic Turntable?

JohnVF said:
Get an LT-30, the big brother to the LT-20, and just put it on a sturdy wall shelf or an audio rack with better isolation properties. I never had problems with my LT-20 and feedback, though.
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I've had a Sony PS-X555ES for a few years, and this is actually not a bad turntable. You can use standard cartridges and it's very easy to set up. Not sure how it compares to other linear trackers, as I've only ever had this one, but it is definitely in the same league as my other DD turntables, such as Luxman PD277, Luxman PD375 and Technics SL1210 MkII. I quite like the looks as well, it's very sleek.

http://www.thevintageknob.org/SONY/sonyes/PSX555ES/PSX555ES.html
 
kotofei said:
I did not have a feedback problems with LT-20 either UNLESS I knock on it with the finger while playing. My other TT, a Sansui XR-Q11, has suspended platter and the tonearm so if I knock on it there are no feedback. The audio rack I use, Lowan matrix, has good isolation properties; however, a wall shelf is out of question since it will be banned by my other half:no::D.


I realize that the "finger knocking test" might not be adequate one but it shows that some decks are more feedback-prone that the others.

BTW, John, how you would compare Mitsu LT-30 with the VPI Classic Turntable?
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I only had the LT-20, not the LT-30. It's not in the same class as the VPI, but it gets closer sonically than all but maybe one of the 15 or so TTs I've owned (the other being an Empire 208 that I'm very fond of for it's momentum and drive). I'm not a Linear tracking or Pivot arm fan exclusively...I like either if done right. I used my LT-20 most of the time on a wall shelf, and it didn't seem any more prone to feedback than my suspended Systemdek that I had before the VPI. The VPI is in another class altogether...you can jump up and down right next to it and it doesn't budge, and rapping your knuckles on the plinth doesn't do anything, either. I'm a big convert to mass dampening. For what it's worth, the LT-30 is much bigger than the LT-20 and have heard from others that it is a more solid platform than the 20 (which isn't lightweight by any means).
 
One of the good features of Revox TTs is they take regular carts. Most other LTs I've seen only accept T4P carts which makes the selection a bit more difficult.

The B795 is the best value for money on a Revox TT. Absolute best is the B791 that offers pictch control but that is a bit of a vanity thing. Normaly one wants the LP to play at the correct speed, period.

The B790 is the first one Revox made and early models lack some refinements made to the tonearm and motor control.

All these LTs are great performers and match well with any cart.

The Technics SL-M3 is a massive TT, much higher and wider than any other I've seen. It performs well and it's cool looking. Specwise it beats every other TT in terms of w&f and rumble.

The clamshell Technics SL-10 and SL-15 are great designs and performers. Not much bigger than the actual LP sleeve you can also hang them on the wall.

I have an SL-QL15 which sounds a whole lot better than I thought. That also takes T4P carts.

If I could only have one LT I would keep the Revox B791 with an Ortofon MC25 moving coil cart.
 
SaSi said:
One of the good features of Revox TTs is they take regular carts. Most other LTs I've seen only accept T4P carts which makes the selection a bit more difficult.

The B795 is the best value for money on a Revox TT. Absolute best is the B791 that offers pictch control but that is a bit of a vanity thing. Normaly one wants the LP to play at the correct speed, period.

The B790 is the first one Revox made and early models lack some refinements made to the tonearm and motor control.

All these LTs are great performers and match well with any cart.

The Technics SL-M3 is a massive TT, much higher and wider than any other I've seen. It performs well and it's cool looking. Specwise it beats every other TT in terms of w&f and rumble.

The clamshell Technics SL-10 and SL-15 are great designs and performers. Not much bigger than the actual LP sleeve you can also hang them on the wall.

I have an SL-QL15 which sounds a whole lot better than I thought. That also takes T4P carts.

If I could only have one LT I would keep the Revox B791 with an Ortofon MC25 moving coil cart.
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The Pioneer PL-l1000 (which is a nice LT table) and the Mitsubishi LT-20/22/30 use standard headshells as well. An Audio-technica AT-150mlx on an LT-20 is a pretty special combination.
 
I think the Mitsubishi LT-30, Pioneer PL-L1000 and Yamaha PX-2 are the cream of the below $1k Japanese LT DD crop. However, with a bit of diligent and patient shopping you could have a Souther or ET on a SOTA Sapphire or VPI HW-19 II/III for around your price limit.
 
Pio1980 said:
Thnx, Just curious. I have a nicely functioning ST-7 that is not being used at present after being gone over.
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I have an ST-7 and owned an ST-8. I liked both, kept the ST-7 and love it, in fact listening to it right now. Coupled to an Ortofon MC-X5 high output MC cart... fantastic!!!!
 
ehoove said:
If I were to recomend A H/K Rabco table, it would be the ST8 which was the last model in the line. I owned one for over 30 years and other than belts it performed flawlessly. The effective mass of the tone arm is only 5 grams, so a very high compliance cartridge is what it likes. I had good sucess with both a Sonus Blue Gold and an Ortofon OM20 super. The ST8 does not use the rubber drive wheel on the arm mechanism that disintegrates on the earlier models.

Regards,
Jim
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I have just about every model of the HK/Rabco, including the ST-7 I purchased new when they were a current product. I have to say, yes the ST-8 is more problem-free due to no rubber friction surfaces in the arm tracking mechanism, but there is a price to pay for this...there is more low level rumble (so to speak) transmitted from the tracking roller up thru the arm and you can hear it. The ST-7, with a fresh "O" ring replacement tracking rioller (get "O" ring from hardware store), is much quieter, and tracks just as good. The original rubber deteriorates severely over time, the O ring should be a more permanent fix.

I like and use my HK/Rabco's all the time, no problems, and I have earlier Rabcos that I like also. Purely mechanical designs, no electronics to fail, can be fixed forever, in my opinion. I like the idea that I can completely disassemble the mechanism, clean, lubricate (where needed) and put it back together and it works great. The only electronics are in some models the speed control for the motor and the touch controls..but not every model has this.
 
I wondered if the ST-8 solid roller would send mechanical noise up the arm shaft. Right about the relative mechanical simplicity and bushing worn bits is always possible. The brushless German Pabst motor may be unobtanium but I suppose a sub is possible for the dedicated, being belt drive.
 
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Pio1980 said:
I wondered if the ST-8 solid roller would send mechanical noise up the arm shaft. Right about the realtive mechanical simplicity and bushing worn bits is always possible. The German Pabst motor may be unobtanium but I suppose a sub is possible for the dedicated being belt drive.
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I thought the motor on the Rabco ST-4 was the unobtanium one. There are plenty of the HK/Rabco turntables around, you could do like I did, and just purchase a few spares for parts. In fact, if you watch popular auction sites, you could purchase half-a-dozen of these and fall within your budget, and then you would have plenty of extra tone-arms, so you could keep mounted a number of carts.
 
I don't think you can do better for your requirements than a Pioneer PL-L1. :music: Great sound and incredible looks, in an over-built package. The problem is finding one -- they are ultra-rare!

From the more realistically obtainable ones, I'd suggest a Yamaha PX-2, or a Sony PSX-800. They aren't exactly common, either, but do show up from time to time on CL or eBay.

Yet another route you could consider is a DIY linear tracking arm on any good turntable that can accommodate one. There are some good designs online; you can have fun, learn something, save some money, and still get nice sound that way.
 
Thanks everyone for sharing your thoughts and experience. After reading all the comments and re-evaluating what I would like to have and what I really need, I made a shortlist of Yamaha PX-2 and Mitsubishi LT-30. They are great TTs with removable headshells that can accommodate a wide range of cartridges. I also like how they looks:D.

The runner-ups are B&O 8002, Sony PSX-800 and Yamaha PX-3. They did not make the shortlist since B&O accepts only a limited range of proprietary cartridges and the Sony has a Biotracer arm which is could be difficult or impossible to repair. The PX-3 is good but the PX-2 is even better. Technics SL-15 almost made the shortlist but it’s programmable and I would like to avoid it.

Other TTs have been recommended which are also very good however I tried to pick up ones which are (strictly IMHO) the best in this price range.

Again, thanks everyone for the input!
 
Revox HELP!!

A linear tracking analogue saga...

So it is time for a new cartridge on the B795 Linatrack....

I spend over a year finding a cartridge mounting kit... finally get one last week

Then begins the search for a cartridge/needle.

1) I am told the tonearm has a mass of 4g (ultra low mass)
2) There are 2 optional counterweights to adjust for various cartridges - Brass - at what seems to be 7g for cartridges of less than 6g, or Lead at 14g for cartridges of more than 6g

So the tonearm has possible mass configurations of 4/11/18g

To make future cartridge changes and experimenting with cartridges easier, I have decided to try to go P-Mount (as revox did in their later models)

The Audio Technica P-Mounte adapter weighs in at 1.5g

This makes for a tonearm of 5.5/12.5/19.5g....

Given that cartridges of 7.5g (the T4P / P-Mount standard + 1.5g for the adapter) require the Lead counterweight - I am now looking at an effective arm mass of 19.5g

This is no longer a low mass tonearm - at this point it has become a medium mass tonearm...

Now I start doing calculations on Resonant frequencies with the cartridges that people have been recomending (high compliance)

Ortofon OMP10/20/30/40 Comp 25 - res Freq 6.4Hz - not good
Digitrac 300SE Comp 30 - res Freq 6 Hz - not good
Stanton L720EE Comp 16 - res freq 8Hz - useable but not ideal
AT 301/311/92 family comp 20 - res freq 7Hz - not good


This makes no sense - these are the cartridges that should match according to the online gossip.....

So I check the service manual for cartridges that were shipped with it originally:

Shure V15VP - Comp 30 - res freq 6.6Hz - STILL NOT A MATCH

How is this possible?
What am I missing?

Am I somehow miscalculating the resonant frequency?

I am using the calculator at http://www.mh-audio.nl/MySystem/RF.asp - and have spent many hours online collating information on cartridge weights, compliances etc... (the Cartridge database being one of the principal sources!)

My end result is coming down to needing a mid compliance cartridge rather than a high compliance one. Ideal for a p-mount seems to be a comp of around 12.

Can I have input please from the Revox experienced out there... have I missed something?


I also remember some mention in one thread of a damper with sticky blue-tacky type stuff in it on the back of the tonearm - but I don't remember seeing anything of the sort on my B795 (or on the service manual diagrams!) - was this a feature of the later B291's? (does it even exist?)

Help much appreciated!

thanks
 
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