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Best way to remove stripped AR XA motor screws?

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DijonMaster

Active Member
So now that everything is up and running sound wise (thank you all btw), I wanted to do some TLC on the motor. The only issue is that someone must have worked on it before, because both screw heads are stripped to the point where none of my drivers will bite into it and just pop out.

Any ideas of how to remove them without damaging the table?

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There's not enough room to grab the outer edge of the head with a tool.
You might be able to cut a straight slot across the head with a dremel and use a flat blade screwdriver.
You could also try an appropriately sized left threaded screw extractor.
 
You can use screw extractors chucked in a drill, running in reverse. They're designed to bite into the remaining head (they are reverse-threaded) and wind it out.

If those are steel screws into aluminum w/o any sort of galvanic corrosion treatment, they may not be easy to remove. Might even want to try some heat.
 
cgallery said:
You can use screw extractors chucked in a drill, running in reverse. They're designed to bite into the remaining head (they are reverse-threaded) and wind it out.

If those are steel screws into aluminum w/o any sort of galvanic corrosion treatment, they may not be easy to remove. Might even want to try some heat.
Click to expand...

Like a heat gun or a soldering iron?
 
cgallery said:
You can use screw extractors chucked in a drill, running in reverse. They're designed to bite into the remaining head (they are reverse-threaded) and wind it out.

If those are steel screws into aluminum w/o any sort of galvanic corrosion treatment, they may not be easy to remove. Might even want to try some heat.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't use a drill...I think it will spin too fast.
My extractors fit into a "T" handle, like a tap and die set. More control, less likely to chew up the stub I'm trying to remove.
upload_2023-5-10_18-12-39.png
 
Maybe get a good quality bit and put it on a cordless impact driver, there might be enough left to get it out. It looks like Philips, which is surprising for an old AR Table. I"ve got little 5" Vice Grips that look like they'd fit around the the outside edges. As a last resort, maybe one of these? I'm unscrewing all the time but have never needed one yet.

 
I bought this Vessel screw driver set and it has little teeth on the tip that bite i not the screw. I got a few out that were striped. It needed one firm blow with a hammer with a twist at the same time and out it came .

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085M3QM5X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00
ie=UTF8&psc=1

71bBNDpRX3L._AC_SL1500_.jpg


Athanasios
 
The comments say those are JIS, I wonder if they bite good in Philips.

I have the tiny Vessel Set for Walkmans and boomboxes, they're like magic, I should probably pull the trigger on this larger set but I get lazy and use an impact driver on most cases and haven't had an issue.
 
DijonMaster said:
So now that everything is up and running sound wise (thank you all btw), I wanted to do some TLC on the motor. The only issue is that someone must have worked on it before, because both screw heads are stripped to the point where none of my drivers will bite into it and just pop out.

Any ideas of how to remove them without damaging the table?
View attachment 2882896
Click to expand...

Okay if you can't get the crazy thing out --- try this trick. Get the closest fitting Phillips head screwdriver. Now, dip it into some valve lapping compound. Wipe off excess. The grit in the lapping compound will bind the screwdriver to the head of the screw like it was welded on. Now, try spinning it off

There's a YouTube video on this trick. Let me try to find it. In the meantime. A link to lapping compound.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80037-Valve-Grinding-Compound/dp/B000HBM80M/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3OQY9DFJKP0U9&keywords=lapping+compound&qid=1683782907&sprefix=lapping+compound,aps,140&sr=8-3


 
Last edited:
Mr Boochie said:
Okay if you can't get the crazy thing out --- try this trick. Get the closest fitting Phillips head screwdriver. Now, dip it into some valve lapping compound. Wipe off excess. The grit in the lapping compound will bind the screwdriver to the head of the screw like it was welded on. Now, try spinning it off

There's a YouTube video on this trick. Let me try to find it. In the meantime. A link to lapping compound.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80037-Valve-Grinding-Compound/dp/B000HBM80M/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3OQY9DFJKP0U9&keywords=lapping+compound&qid=1683782907&sprefix=lapping+compound,aps,140&sr=8-3


Click to expand...
You beat me to it. Valve lapping compound works miracles.
 
Mr Boochie said:
Okay if you can't get the crazy thing out --- try this trick. Get the closest fitting Phillips head screwdriver. Now, dip it into some valve lapping compound. Wipe off excess. The grit in the lapping compound will bind the screwdriver to the head of the screw like it was welded on. Now, try spinning it off

There's a YouTube video on this trick. Let me try to find it. In the meantime. A link to lapping compound.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80037-Valve-Grinding-Compound/dp/B000HBM80M/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3OQY9DFJKP0U9&keywords=lapping+compound&qid=1683782907&sprefix=lapping+compound,aps,140&sr=8-3


Click to expand...

And this won't wreck my screwdriver?
 
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