Bic 980
- Thread starter mindseye
- Start date
fropiler
Super Member
Thanks folks. Now I need to get the cycle to function properly for 33 1/2. I somehow fixed the part where it would return the tonearm at the end of the cycle but leave it half way into the record and drop it and shut off. I did this by fiddling with the mechanisms described as scissors.
If I place an lp on the platter and push the cycle button, it appears to assume I have a 45 on.
If I place an lp on the platter and push the cycle button, it appears to assume I have a 45 on.
Doug G.
Lunatic Member
The two levers or cam followers are still not sufficently free. When you move them by hand, the two springs MUST return the levers to their rest positions, separately, each and every time, quickly, or you will have one or both problems with the arm landing at the 7" position all the time or the arm going back to the record before the table shuts off.
One of those levers (the one with steps on it) controls whether the arm sets down in the 12" or 7" position and the other one holds the arm at the arm rest at the end.
Although treating the pivot of these two levers with WD-40 or the like will temporarily fix the problem, the only long lasting fix is to disassemble the mechanism, clean all the old, hardened lubricant out of there, relube, and reassemble.
Also, be sure neither lever is even slightly bent or the two levers will interfere with one another. As I said, after reassembly, be sure the two levers return to their rest positions, separately, each and every time you move one by hand.
Doug
One of those levers (the one with steps on it) controls whether the arm sets down in the 12" or 7" position and the other one holds the arm at the arm rest at the end.
Although treating the pivot of these two levers with WD-40 or the like will temporarily fix the problem, the only long lasting fix is to disassemble the mechanism, clean all the old, hardened lubricant out of there, relube, and reassemble.
Also, be sure neither lever is even slightly bent or the two levers will interfere with one another. As I said, after reassembly, be sure the two levers return to their rest positions, separately, each and every time you move one by hand.
Doug
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fropiler
Super Member
Very helpful. We'll see how it goes. Thanks!
mindseye
Member
Been enjoying the 981. Recently though, I can hear a slight flutter in the pitch on certain music. (usually piano or slow bass notes).
I've checked the belt, looks to be fine. It runs really quiet as well, but as I watch the strobe I can see it hold steady, then wobble quickly, then steady again.
Where should I check next for a possible remedy? thanks
I've checked the belt, looks to be fine. It runs really quiet as well, but as I watch the strobe I can see it hold steady, then wobble quickly, then steady again.
Where should I check next for a possible remedy? thanks
DustyOldPile
Vinyl Goddess
Nice table! The 980's and 981's were really sharp looking and well built.
I had forgotten about the 'stylus setting'. What does that control actually do behind the scenes?
I had forgotten about the 'stylus setting'. What does that control actually do behind the scenes?
mindseye
Member
will do that, thank you moody
mindseye
Member
according to the manual:
"Stylus Mode Selector-selects proper skating force reference for elliptical or conical styli; eliminates the need for two calibration scales."
Doug G.
Lunatic Member
mindseye, you can turn the pitch control back and forth rapidly several times and then set the strobe. Often, this will move any dirt in there out of the way of the wiper and it will work again. It does sound like that pot is dirty.
My 1000 has the same control and it has done what you describe every so often and I just do as I described. If that doesn't work, you will have to get to the pot and clean it.
Also, don't turn the pots on the board unless you are prepared to readjust the oscillator. Look at the little bulb on the board. It should be steadily lit and fairly dim. If that's the case, the board and pots are probably OK. If the brightness of the bulb is pulsating, the board needs to be readjusted.
The stylus type control is connected to one end of the spring which applies anti-skate force. The other end of the spring is connected to the anti-skate ring, itself, with the indicator on it. The stylus type contol juist stretches the srping different amounts as a starting reference for the graduated control on the ring. This is done to compensate for the differences in skating forces of different stylii and allows the same scale to be used for them.
Doug
My 1000 has the same control and it has done what you describe every so often and I just do as I described. If that doesn't work, you will have to get to the pot and clean it.
Also, don't turn the pots on the board unless you are prepared to readjust the oscillator. Look at the little bulb on the board. It should be steadily lit and fairly dim. If that's the case, the board and pots are probably OK. If the brightness of the bulb is pulsating, the board needs to be readjusted.
The stylus type control is connected to one end of the spring which applies anti-skate force. The other end of the spring is connected to the anti-skate ring, itself, with the indicator on it. The stylus type contol juist stretches the srping different amounts as a starting reference for the graduated control on the ring. This is done to compensate for the differences in skating forces of different stylii and allows the same scale to be used for them.
Doug
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mindseye
Member
Thanks Doug! I'll try your suggestions
yarvelling
Active Member
It's amazing the number of times that I've seen "BIC" as being the same company as "BSR", and also how rarely you ever see any of these BIC decks for sale on the auction sites in Britain!! I doubt if they were ever sold here - was "BIC" ever associated in any way with "BSR"?
Odd though as they have the name of "British Industries Corporation"!!
Looking at them, I can sort of see why the association my be made, but they do look to be well above the standard of your normal 'plastic' BSR deck of the same time-frame!
Not all BSR's were bad - I'm very fond of my P-128R which is a well built single-play deck, but it looks no-where near the engineering of the "BIC" decks!!To the OP, I hope you get the mechanism sorted; it most probably is down to the famous Garrard/BSR "Gorilla Snot" grease issue, and once cleared should allow for smooth and trouble-free operation
That is a nice looking deck
Doug G.
Lunatic Member
mindseye, no, you don't have to disconnect anything or remove the pot. Just spray the deoxit into that slot where the three terminals exit the pot body. The resistance element is right in there. Spray it in there and turn the wiper back and forth to clean the dirt oxidation off the element and wiper.
BIC was never associated with BSR.
BIC stood for British Industries Corporation because they imported British products, such as Garrards, into the USA. In fact, Garrards were their primary import and, in the early 1970s, when Garrard decided to market their turntables on their own (which ended up being a bad decision, on their part), BIC was left without a big share of their profit-making product.
They decided to have their own products manufactured in the US starting with speakers and turntables. The turntables were based on designs from Voice of Music engineers although VM didn't actually make the tables. In fact, VM went out of business a couple of years (1977) after the BIC turntable production started.
At the time, the BICs were the first belt-drive automatics and the quietest automatics on the market. They even equalled or bettered some of the manual turntables of the day. I never hear anything but music and record surface noise from mine.
Doug
BIC was never associated with BSR.
BIC stood for British Industries Corporation because they imported British products, such as Garrards, into the USA. In fact, Garrards were their primary import and, in the early 1970s, when Garrard decided to market their turntables on their own (which ended up being a bad decision, on their part), BIC was left without a big share of their profit-making product.
They decided to have their own products manufactured in the US starting with speakers and turntables. The turntables were based on designs from Voice of Music engineers although VM didn't actually make the tables. In fact, VM went out of business a couple of years (1977) after the BIC turntable production started.
At the time, the BICs were the first belt-drive automatics and the quietest automatics on the market. They even equalled or bettered some of the manual turntables of the day. I never hear anything but music and record surface noise from mine.
Doug
Doug G.
Lunatic Member
Hi Dan, he's got the 981 which has the strobe cast into the platter edge like the 1000 instead of a paper strobe like the 980.
A certain amount of drift is normal for a belt drive but it should never be enough to hear, especially BICs.
It could be the O-ring. See if it is tight enough to stay on the platter right under the gear on the shaft. It really should stay there by itself. If it is too loose, it definitely can cause wow/flutter as it squirms around as the platter is turning
If you have an original red/orange BIC belt, it's unlikely that is the cause as they last pretty much forever. If it looks good without any pieces missing or otherwise deformed, it's probably OK. I guess it would never hurt to get a spare anyway.
Doug
A certain amount of drift is normal for a belt drive but it should never be enough to hear, especially BICs.
It could be the O-ring. See if it is tight enough to stay on the platter right under the gear on the shaft. It really should stay there by itself. If it is too loose, it definitely can cause wow/flutter as it squirms around as the platter is turning
If you have an original red/orange BIC belt, it's unlikely that is the cause as they last pretty much forever. If it looks good without any pieces missing or otherwise deformed, it's probably OK. I guess it would never hurt to get a spare anyway.
Doug