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Building my own Interconnects and Speaker Cables - just checking....

R

rebellovw

Super Member
I need to build two sets of RCA interconnects for my new to arrive Marantz ND8006 CD Player and my Tube Monoblocks. They do not need to be very long - about 3 ft/1 Meter. I'm using Canare - and following the thread posted here a long while back. All the parts are ordered - I think I'm all set.

Parts sheet:

NYS352G Rean NYS352G Gold RCA w/Large Handle 8 8 0 $1.15 $9.20
ECL-MA-016 Eclipse Tools MA-016 Headband LED Magnifier 1 1 0 $14.42 $14.42
TF-NMN025BK Techflex NMN0.25BK Nylon Multifilament 1/4 Inch Cable Sleeve Per Foot 12 12 0 $0.24 $2.88
L-4E6S BE Canare L-4E6S Star-Quad Microphone Cable by the Foot - Blue 14 14 0 $0.99 $13.86


Speaker Cables - I need about 7-10 feet. My plan is to follow the Moonshine/6moons process - Heavy Duty outdoor power cable as the cable. I'll likely go to Home Depot or Walmart to pickup 20ft - of their thickest stuff - I have some Green outdoor power cables in my garage - perhaps like that stuff - the thickest I can find. I'll be using banana plugs. Parts picked up so far:
Parts Express Cable Pants 10mm 2-Conductor Black 10 Pcs.
[4 Pack] 4 pcs total Hi-end Banana to Spade Adapter Plug / Speaker Cable Connector 4 PCS [Wy-yp01 / Spade De L]

The spade to banana should work well with the Cornwalls.

Any general feedback? System is in my signature.

Thanks as always!

Chris
 
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Understand that if you are using star quad they are different from traditional ICs in that you have four conductors within a shielded cable, instead of a center conductor and a grounded shield.

The traditional way to wire this is to connect two of the conductors to the pin at both ends, then the other two to the ring at both ends, then finally the shield to the ring at ONLY ONE END.

Now I have never done this, but there was a recent thread on this that made me think there might be some applications that would benefit from ICs made like this. However, which end you connect the shield to, in terms of signal direction, opinion seems to be split darn near 50/50 on. consensus seemed to be though that if you experienced any hum to turn the cable around and try it that way (that's the reason for having the shield connected only at one end; to minimize hum.)

For your speaker wires, do you have screw connections at both ends (amp and speakers)? If so, then with the parts you're ordering, you'll either need to terminate the cables with banana plugs which I did not see in your parts list or else just crimp and solder on spade sta-kons and don't worry about the bananas or adapters. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Spade-Crimp-Terminal/dp/B0002KR2JU

For 5-ways or spring clamp terminals I go simpler, I just strip a short length of wire and put a dot of solder at the very end of the bare wire after twisting. Works great. Bananas in my opinion are for people who rearrange their gear a lot.

I have used the black low voltage cable for speaker wire before, but it's pretty stiff and large for the wire size. Some extension cord stock would be better but if you cut up an old extension cord you will have an extra conductor - your cables would be smaller if you used something like 14/2 or 12/2 SJO. Now this is the confusing part. Romex or AC (formerly known as BX) will be marked something like 14/2WG or 12/2WG. Those cables will have three conductors in them - black (hot) white (neutral) and bare or green (ground). CORDS however that are marked 14/2 or 12/2 will not have a ground; if you are making up a homemade extension cord with ground you will need 14/3 or 12/3. Not confusing at all is it?

For short runs I typically cut up an old two conductor indoor extension cord e.g. "zip cord". This is probably what your dad wired his speakers up with anyway back in the day (brown 16/2 zip cord) and I can get used extension cords in 12' or 15' lengths at the thrift store for $1 apiece. These are still actually better than the "speaker wire" you buy at Lowe's or HD because most speaker wire is not actually pure copper but "copper clad aluminum" and so a 14AWG "speaker wire" has the same resistivity as 16AWG zip cord. Also looks right with vintage gear, and is cheap enough to be a go with if you sell a receiver or pair of speakers.
 
Wow - thanks very much! See below for some comments.

N8Nagel said:
Understand that if you are using star quad they are different from traditional ICs in that you have four conductors within a shielded cable, instead of a center conductor and a grounded shield.

The traditional way to wire this is to connect two of the conductors to the pin at both ends, then the other two to the ring at both ends, then finally the shield to the ring at ONLY ONE END.
Click to expand...

Yep - exactly I'm planning on the shield on the source side - but I can always flip it.

N8Nagel said:
Now I have never done this, but there was a recent thread on this that made me think there might be some applications that would benefit from ICs made like this. However, which end you connect the shield to, in terms of signal direction, opinion seems to be split darn near 50/50 on. consensus seemed to be though that if you experienced any hum to turn the cable around and try it that way (that's the reason for having the shield connected only at one end; to minimize hum.)
Click to expand...

Yep - I've never done this either. My Tube Monoblocks had serious hum when I first set them up - with Monoprice RCAs. I resolved the issue by using a ground lift - HumX device on both amps. I'm going to try the RCAs in both configurations w/o the HumX to see if it completely eliminates the hum - will be a good test - otherwise I'll just stick with the HumX devices - they work perfectly.

N8Nagel said:
For your speaker wires, do you have screw connections at both ends (amp and speakers)? If so, then with the parts you're ordering, you'll either need to terminate the cables with banana plugs which I did not see in your parts list or else just crimp and solder on spade sta-kons and don't worry about the bananas or adapters. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Spade-Crimp-Terminal/dp/B0002KR2JU

For 5-ways or spring clamp terminals I go simpler, I just strip a short length of wire and put a dot of solder at the very end of the bare wire after twisting. Works great. Bananas in my opinion are for people who rearrange their gear a lot.
Click to expand...

I need to pick up some banana plugs - but I could also just do as you say and solder the tip and simply use the screw.

N8Nagel said:
I have used the black low voltage cable for speaker wire before, but it's pretty stiff and large for the wire size. Some extension cord stock would be better but if you cut up an old extension cord you will have an extra conductor - your cables would be smaller if you used something like 14/2 or 12/2 SJO. Now this is the confusing part. Romex or AC (formerly known as BX) will be marked something like 14/2WG or 12/2WG. Those cables will have three conductors in them - black (hot) white (neutral) and bare or green (ground). CORDS however that are marked 14/2 or 12/2 will not have a ground; if you are making up a homemade extension cord with ground you will need 14/3 or 12/3. Not confusing at all is it?

For short runs I typically cut up an old two conductor indoor extension cord e.g. "zip cord". This is probably what your dad wired his speakers up with anyway back in the day (brown 16/2 zip cord) and I can get used extension cords in 12' or 15' lengths at the thrift store for $1 apiece. These are still actually better than the "speaker wire" you buy at Lowe's or HD because most speaker wire is not actually pure copper but "copper clad aluminum" and so a 14AWG "speaker wire" has the same resistivity as 16AWG zip cord. Also looks right with vintage gear, and is cheap enough to be a go with if you sell a receiver or pair of speakers.
Click to expand...

Yep - I used to use the grown lamp cord for speaker wires. I'l likely tie two cables together for positive -and use the one for negative.

Thanks again!
 
Sounds like you have a legit argument for trying to build yourself a non-traditional directional interconnect then just to see what happens.

Another option for you for the RCAs would be Switchcraft 3502A, since you mentioned "tube monoblocs" if you are using a vintage pre with them the RCAs may be close together and while the Switchcrafts are not blingy, they are very small diameter and decent quality.

Also be aware that the cable you are choosing has about 3x the capacitance of my usual IC go to cable (Mogami W2965) so while it will likely work perfectly fine between a pre and your amps it would not be the best choice for a turntable to pre cable unless you have no other option. Making the cables only as long as necessary can help minimize this however.
 
If you're looking to use power cords for speaker cable, find ones with nice soft jackets. Most of the outdoor cords have a PVC jacket which doesn't bend nicely. If you buy some SJ or SO cord, it has fine-strand wire and a nice soft rubber insulation that bends nicely.
 
gadget73 said:
If you're looking to use power cords for speaker cable, find ones with nice soft jackets. Most of the outdoor cords have a PVC jacket which doesn't bend nicely. If you buy some SJ or SO cord, it has fine-strand wire and a nice soft rubber insulation that bends nicely.
Click to expand...
Thanks very much I will look out for these at Home Depot. I may go with these over an HD outdoor extension cord providing they are not too stiff (like Romex)
 
If you're not familiar with electrical cord terminology, that is the limp black rubber cord stock, about the same size as the outdoor extension cords you mention.

SJ = "junior service" (300V insulation rather than a higher rated)
O = oil resistant
W = weather/water resistant

you may find SJ, SJO, SJOW, or SJOOW, all would be suitable for what you're trying to do. Most likely 14/3. If you find something like 18/4 or 16/4 though you could treat those like the star quad and end up with a heavier overall cable. if you can find 14/2 that works as well.

https://www.wireandcableyourway.com...oow/14-2-sjoow-portable-cord-300v-ul-csa.html

Of course, the Monoprice "choice series" speaker wire is electrically equivalent and is also easy to work with and may be cheaper per foot than 14/2 SJO at your local hardware store.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2747
 
N8Nagel said:
If you're not familiar with electrical cord terminology, that is the limp black rubber cord stock, about the same size as the outdoor extension cords you mention.

SJ = "junior service" (300V insulation rather than a higher rated)
O = oil resistant
W = weather/water resistant

you may find SJ, SJO, SJOW, or SJOOW, all would be suitable for what you're trying to do. Most likely 14/3. If you find something like 18/4 or 16/4 though you could treat those like the star quad and end up with a heavier overall cable. if you can find 14/2 that works as well.

https://www.wireandcableyourway.com...oow/14-2-sjoow-portable-cord-300v-ul-csa.html

Of course, the Monoprice "choice series" speaker wire is electrically equivalent and is also easy to work with and may be cheaper per foot than 14/2 SJO at your local hardware store.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2747
Click to expand...
Thanks N8 - definitely not familiar with the terminology - 110? 220? Whatever it takes.

Thanks all the info so far has really helped.
 
rickb119 said:
Not to deter you from your present course however, you might take a look at this. ;)https://www.audioholics.com/gadget-reviews/diy-speaker-cable-faceoff

I've made several pairs of the CAT5 V1 (the easiest to make) and am very pleased with the results. Also made a pair of bi-wires to compare with my Canare 4s11's. I like the CAT 5 better, by a wide margin.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what the magic might be... even if you use 22AWG CAT5 four conductors is roughly equivalent to 16AWG so what's the difference between that and traditional zip cord?

Not trying to start an argument and I've never tried it, but it just doesn't seem worth the effort to me
 
N8Nagel said:
I'm not sure what the magic might be... even if you use 22AWG CAT5 four conductors is roughly equivalent to 16AWG so what's the difference between that and traditional zip cord?

Not trying to start an argument and I've never tried it, but it just doesn't seem worth the effort to me
Click to expand...
I have no clue what the magic is or why they sound so good, but they do.

I use 4 24AWG CAT 5 cables. So, 16 pair. 16 wires for + and 16 for -. Twisted the 4 cables and connected all the solids together and all the striped together. Comes out to around 12g. I've also made some using just 3 cables. (14g ?)

My system (when I did the comparisons) was a Sansui AU-919, and a Onkyo DX-7555 fed in to a Schiit modi multi. Speakers used were Norman model 8 (re-capped), NHT Superones (also re-capped) and Ascend Acoustics Sierra 2.

For the bi-wire (on the TV system), Rotel RX-1052 and a Denon DCM-450 (I love my multi-changers) in to a Schiit modi 3. Speakers used were Totem Sttaf.

No matter what amp, source or speakers used, the difference between the CAT 5 and other zip cord type (and the Canare) was obvious and delightful.

When I tried the low voltage wire (just because), it was like putting a blanket over the speakers.

People have spoken of high capacitance using CAT 5 cable. If you look at the chart (link), for the V1, the capacitance is not much more than standard zip cord. Increase the gauge, say to 8 or even 10, or do the fancy and VERY time consuming braid, and yes, the capacitance does increase.

It's not that expensive (I got my last box of just under 1000' for $20.00 on CL), nor does it take that much time. However, if you do connect the solids and then the stripped, be sure to ohm them out. Made that mistake once. Fortunately, the amp I was using went in to protection mode. You could also just use the wires from 2 of the cables for + and the other 2 for -. I really doubt it would make much difference, if any. Sure make it easier that way. Think I'll do that my next set.
 
Thanks again everyone I found a nice “14” outdoor cable at Lowe’s in 25 ft and am proceeding with the Moonshine version.

Finished one cable.
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All soldered up. Stuff was much too thick for my fancy pants 10 mm cable pants so just used heat shrink. Gets easier after you see the mistakes you made the first time.

Pleased and no outer tech rope covering. Couldn’t find anything I liked and really not necessary - I’m ok with the red and black extension cord.

Should be a much better setup for my Cornwall’s vs what I have now ( screws and bare wire ).
 
I'm extremely happy with the way they have all turned out - sound is noticeably improved - but I did make too many changes at once. I used the opportunity of buying a new CD player to completely gut and clean up my system. It has never sounded so nice.

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I did skip all the techflex stuff - was too much of a pain to deal with.

I did add some red shrink recently on the speaker + plugs as they sit just a bit too close for comfort.

Thanks for all the help! Biggest pain was dealing with the Canare cable - but once I got the hang of it - it went really fast.
 
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