building my own speakers

nyhifihead said:
First off +1 for separated enclosures for each driver. Stops resonation and a whole slew o issues associated.

I would like to know where you are getting 18 cu ft for that subwoofer driver, the fs is 20hz which means a 18 cu ft sealed wouldn't even work.

And if its ported that puts you around tuning of 10-15hz with little ability to play above that. That would be a true HT tune IMO to feel the 7hz explosions and such in movies.. It would be far from musical

That tang band midbass driver is nice, but if you are actually tuning that sub as such it wouldnt be linear enough in the real bass 30-80hz to "bridge" between itself and the sub. You will have an extremely nonlinear freq response in the bass and it will show. I recommend running the sub with at least an f3 of 40-45 so that the tangband has a chance to pick up where the sub leaves off....


Also that subwoofer for the money is nothing great IMO. If you truly want undeniably clean low end I would go for stereo integritys HST-18 which is around the same price or even the Dayton ultimax 18 is very impressive, and much cheaped

Its all about the implementation of the box. Ported vs sealed and the size catering to your needs. Assuming you care about fidelity and linearity the best course is to get a low fs subwoofer with a large sealed enclosure (4-8cu ft) for extremely flat and clean response.

I literally have spent the last year or so doing continuous research bow to get the best LOW bass for my dedicated listening room. I run stereo integrity 18"s in 6 cu ft sealed boxes tuned to 27hz. The drivers fs are 16hz so they really can extend.

Be noted sealed boxes can be nearly 2x as inefficient as ported boxes, but they drop only 12db out of their playable range opposed to 24db for ported.

I'm a diy subwoofer guy feel free anyone who is venturing into this world to pm me. I am EXTREMELY happy with my setup I think the bass is the cleanest and deepest I could get without going off the deep end with pricing.

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+1. Listen to this advise, especially the choice of woofers
 
sawmill said:
Hi all, I'm getting closer to finally building my set of music mains. I've settled on the components suggested by Gary at PE after quite a bit of conversation. The box I am going to build is 18 cu. ft. ported for the woofers, mids and a tweeter. My question is; after looking at a lot of diy solutions on the internet, most people are using mdf for the main structure and bracing. In my mind, it would be much stronger to use baltic birch or even marine plywood for the structure as it is so much stronger than mdf. Can anyone comment on why so many people use mdf in lieu of other sheet goods? Rob
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What drivers are you using that require 18 cu ft? I don't know any driver that needs that much volume. Tell me the drivers and I'll model them for you.
 
Hi djnagle, The Tang Band mid is something new at Parts Express. I think I listed all of the drivers earlier in the thread. The 18 cuft is a simple summation of the individual driver recommendations on the PE site -----and according to a few individuals on this thread , quite wrong. I think after researching many comments here , I do want to go with a proven design before I build. Not as easy as it seems...........
 
11 or 13 ply 3/4" birch ply is my favorite for speaker building. I usually use two thicknesses for wall thickness of 1.5". I have also used mdf as inner layer. Plenty easy to use birch plywood and make an acoustically dead box. I also like to make separate boxes for all drivers but this might go against the WAF approach but makes for better sound and more flexibility.
 
If you buy drivers from Madisound they will design you a crossover for a fee. Easy enough to design a box for any given driver, don't let the fearful scare you out of it.. You don't need a proven design to build a pair of speakers.
 
Gibsonian, Roger that on the plywood. A smart approach to use both materials in composition with two benefits.Please explain WAF ?? Very interesting dope on Madisound,thank you very much.Your positive reinforcement is appreciated. Rob
 
You need to consider weight of your finished product. The ones I mentioned with double 3/4 birch ply with drivers installed will be upwards of 350lbs each.
 
Weight is no issue as they will be on a slab.Building and moving heavy stuff is what I do for a living,bluntly. The fact that I can consider big and heavy runs counter opposite to trends these days.Here is a pic of a typical oak entry door I build.
 
Heavy is the weigh to go! Pun intended. High mass has great effect in loudspeaker design. I usually design with room for sandbags inside enclosure. With your Cab size you can plan to use 2 by 4's or larger for your internal bracing.
 
Here are four in a row, the oak beam headerFazeli Cellars Entry Doors.JPG above is 37 feet long. The blue pot in the middle is 6 feet tall !Designed , engineered , fabricated , and installed................Thank you for the big speaker pics,604man, ...in my heart I know that there is a pair out there for me. Rob
 
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