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Can I save a damaged Mission speaker.

MikeN

New Member
Just got these Mission M62i, 100 watt, 8 ohm bookshelf speakers. I got them very cheap due to previous owner saying they are blown.
Well.... The one speaker works fine but when the other one is plugged in, it only has a very faint sound. When I turn up the volume, I hear a little snap and both speakers go off. I did some resistance readings. The good speaker reads 4.7 ohms, and the bad one reads 1.4 ohms.
Is there anyway to save/repair the speaker? Is it worthwhile sending it to the manufacturer for repair?
 

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First thing I'd do is remove the drivers from the speaker reading 1.4 ohms and measure the resistance of each. If they both read 4 ohms or higher then the problem is likely with the crossover; if one reads low and the other high then the problem is with the driver reading low. I doubt you'll have to send them to Mission; this is probably something that can be fixed yourself.
 
First thing I'd do is remove the drivers from the speaker reading 1.4 ohms and measure the resistance of each. If they both read 4 ohms or higher then the problem is likely with the crossover; if one reads low and the other high then the problem is with the driver reading low. I doubt you'll have to send them to Mission; this is probably something that can be fixed yourself.

Thanks,
I'll give that a shot.
 
So I removed the driver and it tested 4.6 ohms. Hooked it up directly to the amp, and it worked. The crossover didn't seem to have any obvious damage. Than I tested the tweeter through the crossover. At first no sound and when I turned up the volume, tick, and it came back to work. I hooked up both speakers through the crossover and amazingly it all worked. I tapped and shook the crossover and no problems at all. So I put it back together and I've been listing to it for 3 hours without any problems. I'm super happy, but wondering if I missed something, unless I have the magic touch lol.20180729_181045.jpg
 

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Perhaps one of the clips had worked loose and messing with the crossover re-connected it?
Either way, congratulations!
 
I don't know why they were reading as a partial short and now they work, but it sounds like you might have a bad connection to the tweeter (the fact that it didn't play until you made it louder can be a symptom of that). I'd pull it again and make sure the clips and terminals don't have any corrosion.
 
I don't know why they were reading as a partial short and now they work, but it sounds like you might have a bad connection to the tweeter (the fact that it didn't play until you made it louder can be a symptom of that). I'd pull it again and make sure the clips and terminals don't have any corrosion.

That makes sense. I will do that.
Thank you.
 
Just noticed that these appear to be current or recent models, in which case corrosion is unlikely. But you should check to make sure the clips go on the terminals solidly. You can carefully tighten them with pliers if they seem to be loose.
 
Also check for a loose fragment of wire or other conductive material (bit of solder for instance) that could be causing a short.
Cold solder joints could also pose a problem if one the components is loose. Had that problem myself once with a tweeter cutting out at higher volumes. A light tug on each connection just to make sure everything is nice and tight should do it.
 
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It's also possible that the flex leads (between the woofer cone and the woofer terminals) were touching each other inside the woofer frame. Removing the woofer, unplugging it and re-installing it, may have moved these flex leads around enough, to remove the short.

Given that possibility, I would advise pulling the woofer out again- and making sure the leads aren't close enough together, that they could touch again. Gently moving/re-bending the flex leads where they are resting further apart, usually will solve this permanently.

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Thank you Gordon for all the time you spend helping me out. The terminals were Defintly tight, in fact, I had a he'll of a time getting them off. I didn't notice any fragments of wire or other contaminents, but the leads I didnt notice. That's definitely a possibility.
I'll take a look.
Once again, much thanks.

Mike
 
In case it wasn't clear, reading resistance on the input terminals really just measures the woofer. The tweeter usually has a cap in front of it that doesn't conduct DC so resistance is essentially infiniite. Hence the suggestion that there is something hinky with the woofer.
 
In case it wasn't clear, reading resistance on the input terminals really just measures the woofer. The tweeter usually has a cap in front of it that doesn't conduct DC so resistance is essentially infiniite. Hence the suggestion that there is something hinky with the woofer.

Good to know,
Thanks
 
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