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Can I use a Russian 6P15P-EV in place of a 6BQ5/EL84/6P14P-EV in my PP amp?

Thanks for this post. I am still building my test mule using the Tubelab SPP boards as described earlier, to be able to try various operating conditions for PP 6P16P-ev. But alas, it is going slower than hoped for. Your “reviving” of the thread is welcome.

So, when you ran the 6P15P-EV in pentode mode what was the g2 voltage? Could you explain the following please: “which is allso better with regards to g2 power , as when g2 current increases the voltage on g2 allso considerably lowers because of the UL”

Well, that's the effect of UL mode, the screen voltage moves up in down ,as the output tubes are driven, with the distrubuted load percentage of the windings. That's the local nfb of UL mode as I understand it. RMS AC voltage over g2-g2 of the pp amp was 125 Volts , at max output. This means g2 voltage of one tube gets lowered ca. 88volt with respect to the voltage at no signal. I think that the 10 watts output in UL mode is quite nice and on par with el84 in UL connection. Meanwhile I have changed to 320V HT and a fixed negative bias of ca. -11.5V and output is now 11.5V in 8Ohm with 10K OPT with 43% UL taps, tubes run smooth and without any problems.
 
Feel free to support Putins war by using russian tubes. If on the other hand has second thought about
supporting Putin and his war then get something else.. JJ EL84 for instance.
Tubes are bought from Ukranian traders , wouldn't think of it to buy from russian traders.
 
Well stated. For my 6P15P pentode experiments I will use Dave Gillespie’s EFB II scheme to modulate the final tube’s screen voltage in fixed relation to the plate voltage. My working hypothesis is that the 6P15P will perform as well as 6P14P/El84 under these operating conditions where the screen dissipation can be appropriately controlled.

Hence my question to @systux’s about what q2 voltage was in his case. From his data points above (and others I have heard of) it seems that power output is lower for 6P15P than EL84. I hypothesize that when the screen voltage is set properly for the 6P15P it will behave and perform like an EL 84, including power output. It would be great if someone with a tube tracer could run some curves like that, but I don’t have access to such tracing.
I tried several fixed screen voltages , but tubes seem to perform best when screen and anode voltage are approx. the same. Tube is actually a video amplifier , not meant for audio, and has very high Ri of 100K. This is very different from tubes like 6p18p or 6p43p or 6p23p with an Ri of 11-23K or the 6p14p with an Ri of 30K. I don't know much of tube technology but the 6p15p seems to like a somewhat higher Ra-a of 10K , maybe more. I run it now with fixed bias of ca. -11.5V on G1 and 320V HT, tubes run fine without problems and I get around 11.5V in 8 Ohm , with 10K OPT with 43% UL taps. I removed the orriginal ecf80 and now use a 6au6wc pentode as the voltage pre-amplifier and a Stp4nk60zfp mosfet as concertina phase splitter, works like a charm , with less noise and less distortion at highest volumes.
 
Reviving this old thread , confirming the last data. Because I could get an octet new 6p15p-ev for the price of one new 6p14p-ev , I adapted an audionote el84 pp board to fit the 6p15p-ev. Modifications included adding UL connections for G2 with 240Ohm screen resistor, 180 Ohm per individual tube cathode resistor and connect pin3 and 6. HT was 280Vdc (218Vac) which resulted in a quiescent current of 36 mA per tube and ca. 6.7V over the cathode resistor. With the used OPT, 7.6K with UL taps at 43%, this gave 274V on the plate and g2. The measured g2 current was 5mA, which is 1.33 watt , and combined plate+g2 power is 9.6 watts. Ouput power was 9.2V over 8.2 resistor which is ca. 10Watt. Power output was the same 9.2V when connected as pentode and a shared g2 resistor of 430 Ohm, so I run it UL connected, which is allso better with regards to g2 power , as when g2 current increases the voltage on g2 allso considerably lowers because of the UL connection. Measured 277Vac over plate to plate and 125Vac g2 to g2 at full 10 Watts out. This is the original board not showing my mods for the 6p15p-ev. Next mod will be changing to controlled fixed bias per tube.
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Severe mods, , with available fixed bias voltage available of -50V I can now change between tube types 6p43p (bias voltage around -45V at 280V HT) till 6p15p (bias volatge around -11.6V at 320V HT). The onle tube not yet tried is the 6p14p/el84 because of the ridiculous high prices of these tubes. I think 6p43p-e is the best sounding of them all , most like the 6bw6 (a 6v6 noval tube) , but I think I prefer the bigger octal tubes when it comes to tube audio.
 

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Severe mods, , with available fixed bias voltage available of -50V I can now change between tube types 6p43p (bias voltage around -45V at 280V HT) till 6p15p (bias volatge around -11.6V at 320V HT). The onle tube not yet tried is the 6p14p/el84 because of the ridiculous high prices of these tubes. I think 6p43p-e is the best sounding of them all , most like the 6bw6 (a 6v6 noval tube) , but I think I prefer the bigger octal tubes when it comes to tube audio.
The last matched quad of 6P14P-K's I bought cost me $17. The seller for some reason even sent another matche'd pair. The first quad I bought wad only $29. Unless your going to buy 16P14P-EV's or EB's. But they aren't that expensive either.
$50 to $65 for a matched quad of NOS tubes.
EL-84's have shot up in price for sure though.
 
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the pricing is all over for the 6P14P variants, depending on the specific one and who you buy it from. Some are very cheap, some are dumb money, and its not always obvious why even when its the same tube.
 
Severe mods, , with available fixed bias voltage available of -50V I can now change between tube types 6p43p (bias voltage around -45V at 280V HT) till 6p15p (bias volatge around -11.6V at 320V HT). The onle tube not yet tried is the 6p14p/el84 because of the ridiculous high prices of these tubes. I think 6p43p-e is the best sounding of them all , most like the 6bw6 (a 6v6 noval tube) , but I think I prefer the bigger octal tubes when it comes to tube audio.

Hi systux,
Very interesting experiments and conclusions. Thanks for sharing.

I would like to be sure I correctly understand your data point “6p15p (bias volatge around -11.6V at 320V HT)”. Did you run the 6P15P tube in UL (10k primary) with high voltage supplied at 320 V for extended time? No red plating with the screens at about 317 V after transformer losses and plates at around 314V, with about -11.6 V fixed bias? Did you perhaps take note of the output power and screen current under these conditions? This is an encouraging answer to the question posed by the thread title under these operating conditions, which are used in many 6BQ5/EL84/6P14P PP UL amplifiers.

Also, in prior post #25 you wrote: “I tried several fixed screen voltages, but tubes seem to perform best when screen and anode voltage are approx. the same.” I assume you mean 6P15P because that is not the case with all tubes. (There are knowledgeable people that believe that in general pentodes and tetrodes perform best when the screen voltage is about 75% of the plate voltage.) Could you elaborate on “perform best” in your observations, in what way(s)? Was this measured or just perceived by listening?
 
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the pricing is all over for the 6P14P variants, depending on the specific one and who you buy it from. Some are very cheap, some are dumb money, and its not always obvious why even when its the same tube.
I've even seen several listing for the same thing by a single seller with different prices for the same thing being sold. Sometimes you just have to work that scoring finger to find the better price. :D
 
Hi systux,
Very interesting experiments and conclusions. Thanks for sharing.

I would like to be sure I correctly understand your data point “6p15p (bias volatge around -11.6V at 320V HT)”. Did you run the 6P15P tube in UL (10k primary) with high voltage supplied at 320 V for extended time? No red plating with the screens at about 317 V after transformer losses and plates at around 314V, with about -11.6 V fixed bias? Did you perhaps take note of the output power and screen current under these conditions? This is an encouraging answer to the question posed by the thread title under these operating conditions, which are used in many 6BQ5/EL84/6P14P PP UL amplifiers.

Also, in prior post #25 you wrote: “I tried several fixed screen voltages, but tubes seem to perform best when screen and anode voltage are approx. the same.” I assume you mean 6P15P because that is not the case with all tubes. (There are knowledgeable people that believe that in general pentodes and tetrodes perform best when the screen voltage is about 75% of the plate voltage.) Could you elaborate on “perform best” in your observations, in what way(s)? Was this measured or just perceived by listening?

Yes , I've run them for several hours without any problem. Note that the max screen and anode voltage for the 6p15p-ev is 330V for both. With fixed bias current setting of around 60-70% of max tube dissipation there is no problem at all. With 320V HT , 7k6 OPT and 43% UL taps with 240Ohm screen resistors I got ca. 11.3V in 8 Ohm which is around 15Watt.
I'm not impressed with their sound though, nice delicate mids and highs but bass wasn't very spectacular, but that has probably much to do with the type of music I listen to mostly.
I found the 6p43-p much better soundwise , though they require some serious drive with 280V HT , 6.2K OPT with 43% UL taps. They required -35V (not -45V as I mentioned erroneously in a previous post) grid voltage for ca. 25mA bias current. This gave ca. 20Watt output , with the added benefit that el86 ( I got 10 of them for 2,40 euro a piece, new in box from EI Yugoslavia, very nice tubes) is a drop-in replacement for the 6p43p-e , where the el86 is a true pentode and the 6p43p-e is a beam tetrode. EL86 sounds more like the 6p15p-ev leaning towards a JJ el34 and the 6p43p-e sounds more like a JJ 5881.or brimar 6bw6.
Tubes are fun, as long it's affordable, OPT's with complicated seperate anode and g2 windings and corresponding high-end prices are not fun.
As for the g2 voltage, yes, in pentode mode optimal settings for beam tetrodes is g2 substantially lower voltage than the anode , but not for audio pentodes like el34 and el84 or 4654 when you use HT within reasonable limits. KT77 has 300V max. screen voltage in tetrode mode according to datasheet at anode HT of 400-450V , where the el34 has 425V G2 voltage with anode HT of 400V in the average 35Watt p/c pentode amp. KT77 in UL mode can have 600V on the other hand , same with 6550 , in pentode mode max. 300V on the G2 , but in UL mode 600V is no problem either, if you look at the tungsol 5881 datasheet you will see the same pattern , 270V G2 with 360V anode HT, but in UL mode 450V HT is defined. When I say G2 should be around anode for best performance I mean UL mode and an affordable price for the OPT. For guitar amps things are completely different , where the amp is part of the timbre palette of the instrument and pentode mode offers much more characteristic sounds.
O.c. there are a number of transmitting and vertical deflection tubes with electrode structures where it is not wise to use a too high G2 voltage allso not in UL mode, but other than for experimenting, why would you use those for HiFi amps when there are so many good audio pentodes available to fool around with.
 
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I guess you bought some time ago. Prices for unused 6P14P-Ks are higher now.
I bought them about a month ago. Maybe the supply is getting thinner now?
At the price I bought them at I'm sure I wasn't the only one jumping on them.
Out of the 10 I bought I did wind up with two duds. Put those two tubes in a tester and they test strong. In an amp one red plated and with the other, the sound just faded out. Since most testers dont test at higher voltages, I can see how that would have been hard to catch by the seller.
 
strong as in stronger than new strong? I've had that sort of issue before, always on tubes that drew way too much current for whatever reason.
 
strong as in stronger than new strong? I've had that sort of issue before, always on tubes that drew way too much current for whatever reason.
No, not stronger than new strong. The only way for me to test them myself was to test them as a 7189. The two that failed didn't test any stronger than the others.
 
ah ok. I've had a couple that put the needle in the corner on my Eico, they were always current hogs that red plated. No idea why, guessing grid alignment or something was messed up.
 
Tubes are bought from Ukranian traders , wouldn't think of it to buy from russian traders.
Is this what you wanted to quote and asked why not? There are trade embargoes in place (at present time and when systux wrote it) between most Western countries and Russia due to the war in Ukraine.
 
I actually dug that schematic up last night, based on what I noted on it, its actually closer to 295 volts across the tube.

It started life as a Madison-Fielding console amp but it has transformers from a Hammond tone cabinet. The originals were 2.5 ohm output, which isn't real useful. The Hammonds were cheap, fit, and run at 8 ohms.

I noticed I forgot to fix something on that schematic. The front end is a 12ax7. That was modified from the original schematic I drew. When the amp showed up it had 12AU7 tubes, so thats what I wrote on it. Further investigation showed the values used on the socket made no sense for a 12au7 but did make sense for a 12ax7. Circuit remains stock, just with some tweaks for different output transformers, plus I installed an EFB regulator in place of the cathode resistors.

View attachment 2601598 View attachment 2601596 View attachment 2601597
I spy a Sound Technology ST1700 test set there...

I have two for back-up but am thinking of selling them.
 
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