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Can this run cap for a furnace be tested?

SolderIron said:
So many things to learn and to play with nowadays. The new 18V battery tools are lighter and smaller because of the electronic control motors. If only they put a 2cents more part in to make things last longer.
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Yeah like lets drive plastic gears and housings with a metal shaft to get it to work up until the warranty ends.


@OBMG74 ..I appreciate the good thoughts. The landlord did offer to put me up in a nearby hotel but I'm not that fond of that either. If it gets that bad I'll start my van up and crash in there.

@Dingman ...This will definitely cost them a chunk but thats being a landlord...or homeowner...been there a few times myself.

The new guy will be here at 8:30 tomorrow morning and he told them if it is the motor a place nearby has them in stock. Well see.

And the current weather report for my household...but it was 97 out earlier. I dont know how the people in the hot states do it.

1718835084317.jpeg
 
The Schmatic should be on the door to fan unit
The motor looks dc meaning no start or run cap it’s not AC
the chock is to stop back emf when it’s turned off
I’m thinking without a schematic it’s tough to figure it out
you can download the diagram I’m sure
 
I have same blower and it's capless. The inducer will have a cap, though. I'd check the fuse on the board. Could be a bad fan relay on the main board which means a need to replace the board. In the thermostat or at the board: "To turn on the fan, you'd connect R and G. To turn on the fan and AC, you'd connect R and Y (or R, G, and Y on systems where the thermostat controls the fan). "hi
 
xXDEATH666Xx said:
After a bit of googling, I found that traditional run/start caps are no longer used on the fan motor. Most likely a component on the board is bad or the motor is bad
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Huh. Could the board be capable of generating a waveform, that simulates the phase shift of a cap?

Otherwise, I wonder how they start the darn things...

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Dingman said:
Ya, I've heard that they are now putting ECM motors in residential units.
I come from the commercial world of HVAC and ECM motors are the fad right now. I think the tech has matured but originally we had lots of trouble with them, and they were crazy expensive to replace.
You probably already know - ECM motors have the VFD (variable frequency drive) built right into them, and in commercial units, it's a comm bus from the control board to the ECM - not just discreet control voltages - it's a fuking comm bus.

The big downside is if you have a normal motor failure, instead of a $100 motor, you're looking at (guessing) $700-800 for replacement.
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Ah, this makes sense. Motors with VFD, that can be "throttled down" to run at different speeds, depending on demand. Makes sense from an energy standpoint, but definitely more expensive when they break down- at least for now.

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Alrainbow said:
This looks like a fan inducer motor
it’s possible purpose is to maintain a positive air pressure to maintain an airflow of gas or if ingnighted hot air
This most commonly has a hot surface igniter
it must have a circuit board for this process
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Yes I found that out when I went looking for the black cap a website that was listed along with the cage motor. But its for the gas unit not the main blower motor. Just a yellow LED when on.

@raycarr00 ...jumping R to G does nothing. If switched to cool the outside compressor runs and gets cold but the fan just wont come on. Like I said at first it was running fine...then 6 hours later I heard the fan just pulsing on and off...then it didnt do anything at all so I shut everything down.

Not sure what type of motor but its specs call it a fixed 5 speed. I know when I moved in 6 years ago the unit was cycling way too much and the tech did something and also changed the speed. It's been perfect ever since until now. The whole system is overkill for this small house which was one of the problems he said.

Got up to 89 in here but now I have the house opened up and fans going sucking and pushing that cool outside 87 degree air in baby...livin it goot!! :king:

Yes....I may have heat stroke! :crazy:
 
GordonW said:
Ah, this makes sense. Motors with VFD, that can be "throttled down" to run at different speeds, depending on demand. Makes sense from an energy standpoint, but definitely more expensive when they break down- at least for now.

Regards,
Gordon.
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That's not what this is. He said it was a 5 speed motor, which is a common motor on furnaces. I don't believe the board has anything to do with the blower. The board would be to make sure that little exhaust motor is running before it allows the furnace to fire. There's a cap on the side of the blower motor case. We just can't see it from that angle. I took the cover of mine off and you can't see the cap.
 
Dingman said:
Ya, I've heard that they are now putting ECM motors in residential units.
I come from the commercial world of HVAC and ECM motors are the fad right now. I think the tech has matured but originally we had lots of trouble with them, and they were crazy expensive to replace.
You probably already know - ECM motors have the VFD (variable frequency drive) built right into them, and in commercial units, it's a comm bus from the control board to the ECM - not just discreet control voltages - it's a fuking comm bus.

The big downside is if you have a normal motor failure, instead of a $100 motor, you're looking at (guessing) $700-800 for replacement.
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And that is why they've gone to those. More Cha-ching on replacement parts for the manufacturer.
 
Its the motor...has to be ordered since its Carrier specific... maybe a day or two. :no::thumbsdown::thumbsdown:
 
I think I'd take the owner up on his offer to pay for a hotel. If only to get a good night's sleep. Spend the day at home, and the night at the hotel.
 
xXDEATH666Xx said:
I'm glad they found the problem. Did it have a cap on it?
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No he said there's no cap for it...the control board takes care of everything.

@rickb119 ... They offered again today but I declined. I'm the kind of person that cant sleep at strange places and I'm not fond of bedbugs either. I go to bed around 1-2am and I can usually open up the house and get the temps down to about 83°. I cant leave it opened up because if it storms I wont wake up and have a soaked house. I tried leaving the bedroom window open one night but my bones cant take that damp morning air anymore..everything felt damp in the room.

So now they're talking 2-3 days because it has to be ordered from Carrier directly and parts places dont stock them. I'm hoping they will spring for overnight shipping but I think it runs around $900 as it is.
 
I have 2 boards- the original from fifteen years ago or so, and a new one. the original board developed an intermittent issue with the fan relay where the fan wouldn't kick on and after the flames came on. resetting the system by resetting the fuse, waiting a few minutes, would temporarily solve the problem. turning just the fan on through the thermostat, demonstrated the fan was still working. looked for a cap at the time and it doesn't have one. there's a small motor shop nearby that tested the fan and found no issues with it. it's a high efficiency furnace or "pain in the ass" furnace. I must have viewed many youtube videos and scoured the net at the time on this issue.
 
I`m not positive, but the picture of your air handler`s motor looks just like my HVAC heat pump`s one and there is a removable motor control pack bolted to the back of the motor that contains all the electronic control unit`s electronic components (and the start cap is located there) to slow ramp up start the motor and it`s circuitry is sealed in some kind of conformal coating on the inside to protect the circuit components from exposure to dust dirt, and the evaporators coil`s condensation dripping humidity.

My blower motor also allows to physically program the air handler`s running fan speed from the outside of the motor by moving a push on wire jumper to one of 3 positions L/M/H.

Probably only that bolt on motor control module needs to be replaced if the unit is less than 10 yrs. old.

Good luck with getting that HVAC operational very soon, as I can relate living in NE. FL. where most of the yr. is warm ~hot with humidity.
 
Bill Ferris said:
I`m not positive, but the picture of your air handler`s motor looks just like my HVAC heat pump`s one and there is a removable motor control pack bolted to the back of the motor that contains all the electronic control unit`s electronic components (and the start cap is located there) to slow ramp up start the motor and it`s circuitry is sealed in some kind of conformal coating on the inside to protect the circuit components from exposure to dust dirt, and the evaporators coil`s condensation dripping humidity.

My blower motor also allows to physically program the air handler`s running fan speed from the outside of the motor by moving a push on wire jumper to one of 3 positions L/M/H.

Probably only that bolt on motor control module needs to be replaced if the unit is less than 10 yrs. old.

Good luck with getting that HVAC operational very soon, as I can relate living in NE. FL. where most of the yr. is warm ~hot with humidity.
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It is exactly that with mine having 5 speed choices. I dunno if the guy is ordering the module or the whole motor. He pulled the cage out but he didnt take the module off to check the motor. Its 86 in here again today and frankly I dont give a **** if he orders the whole freakin unit...not my money...well at least until the next rent increase anyway.

It is this to the letter...

 
LHorn said:
It is exactly that with mine having 5 speed choices. I dunno if the guy is ordering the module or the whole motor. He pulled the cage out but he didnt take the module off to check the motor. Its 86 in here again today and frankly I dont give a **** if he orders the whole freakin unit...not my money...well at least until the next rent increase anyway.

It is this to the letter...

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Mystery solved. I can see why it's a carrier specific motor. Never seen one like this before
 
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