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Cerwin Vega HED

tastysud

New Member
Picked up another pair of Cerwin Vega speakers but cant find any info anywhere about them. They are the HED series UT12R. Massive cabinets.
 
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Not a fan. The enclosures look massive, but are very poorly put together -- they are mortised nicely, but two pairs I had were only held together by a bead of hot melt glue on the inside of the joint. A good knock, which they had had, was enough to break the glue joints leaving only friction and the vinyl covering holding the cabinets together. And the vinyl covering suffered badly from whatever the sticky vinyl syndrome is.
Loud, lots of high frequency and low frequency tizz and boom, but not, to my ears, good speakers.
 
Nat, while I am not really a fan of Cerwin Vega speakers. The W12's I have were given to me, and they do sound nice. I was really surprised. But the vinyl holding the cabinets together comment. Are you referring to the HED series? Cause any of that series I've ever seen have real wood veneer. And the cabinets are pretty well made.
 
I had a couple of pairs of HEDs. They were 2 ways. Tastes differ, so you may find yours just delightful. Manufacturing processes change over time and because of economic pressures, and maybe I had cut rate versions. But they were vinyl, and they were badly glued. Maybe yours were earlier and better made. But if you like them, my opinion should not matter.
 
They are going to be garage speakers. You didn't specify model you had. So that is why I asked! ;)
 
Had them long long ago. There was a time when they were very common at tag sales. Haven't seen any in years.
 
The Cerwin Vega HED series (High Energy Design) had 2 variants, one was the vinyl H- 10 H-12 H-15 and the
other was a veneer version; W-10 and W12.
The W versions were slightly more expensive.
 
heh.....I have a pair of HED W12's that I cant find any information on either. lol
Here is the little i've got on those; 12inch woofer, 1inch voice coil, 2000hz x-over,response; 38-20 000hz +- 4db.
97db/w eff. 50w rms max power,25x 14.5x11.5 inch deep. 42lbs ea. Were sold $199.00 Can, each in 1979
 
Hmmm, The ones I have are wood veneer with a 15" woofer, midrange and tweeter out front and a midrange out the back as well. along with controls for the mids and high each, slotted port on the rear. They loook well made and are very heavy. I will post pictures maybe tomorrow, the guy I bought them from said he paid in the 750 range way back when. I cant even find a picture online of them.
 
OK, I think I messed up, the woofer basket is 15" so I guess maybe the speaker might be a 12" cone?. Strange thing is, I found a tag on one of the speakers over the model number as if factory installed. It said C415R, under the tag it said as I first posted, UT12R. What the hell do I have?
 
I just purchased a pair of HED W-10's for $50 Here are some photos. These are very heavy. I have not opened them up or tested them yet. Supposedly they came out of a multi-million dollar home here in S. Florida. They had been in a closet for 20 years. I'm waiting on my receiver to be delivered that I purchased off Ebay.
 
I just purchased a pair of HED W-10's for $50 Here are some photos. These are very heavy. I have not opened them up or tested them yet. Supposedly they came out of a multi-million dollar home here in S. Florida. They had been in a closet for 20 years. I'm waiting on my receiver to be delivered that I purchased off Ebay.
I had a pair of those bought new in '79 and loved them. I stupidly got rid of them in the late 90's much to my regret. Enjoy!
 
Don't forget about the U series HED.

I have a pair of U-321's.

I liked them but one of the mid drivers is now bad as is one of the horn drivers.

...and both 12" woofers need a third re-foaming.
 
U-15 Hed Cerwin Vega Attempting to redo the crossover.5uf 200vd 1.5uf 200vd 33 10% 5w want to ad New capacitors. transistor and air. and air coil Inductor. Trying to figure out what? size of eight core to get. frequency 32HZ. 17 KHZ. 2500hz This one coil over for the woofer and tweeter. Should I divide them? with two air coil Or leave it original. It's just the one. thank you. Can you do some advice? John. Naz Running the speakers with my Kenwood KR-IMG_20230123_003825.jpgIMG_20230123_003911.jpg20240203_113158.jpg20240203_113626.jpg


9600.
 
Okay - this is just my two cents, and others may disagree. Further, I am confused by your description of the crossover. My memory of CVs is that the orignal caps are small elctolytics and so it very likely makes sense to replace the caps with ones of the same value (higher voltage is okay), either with new electrolytics or film caps (electrolytics will be cheaper and less likely to make the speakers too bright since they probably have an equivalent series resistance closer to that intended by the designers). Whether the coil should be replaced is much less clear (to me). Some people reject iron core coils on general principle, but my understanding is that the issue is saturation and if you aren't headbanging, the CVs are efficient enough that the difference may not be audible.
I would not mess with the crossover design by changing values or by adding components. Designers usually know about crossovers than the consumer, and they are aware of pitfalls (such as the tweeter's power handling level) that the user may not be aware of.
Obviously they are your speakers, and you can do whatever you want, and you might enjoy redesigning them. But I would start with a simple recapping.
 
IMG_20230110_052500.jpg
Okay - this is just my two cents, and others may disagree. Further, I am confused by your description of the crossover. My memory of CVs is that the orignal caps are small elctolytics and so it very likely makes sense to replace the caps with ones of the same value (higher voltage is okay), either with new electrolytics or film caps (electrolytics will be cheaper and less likely to make the speakers too bright since they probably have an equivalent series resistance closer to that intended by the designers). Whether the coil should be replaced is much less clear (to me). Some people reject iron core coils on general principle, but my understanding is that the issue is saturation and if you aren't headbanging, the CVs are efficient enough that the difference may not be audible.
I would not mess with the crossover design by changing values or by adding components. Designers usually know about crossovers than the consumer, and they are aware of pitfalls (such as the tweeter's power handling level) that the user may not be aware of.
Obviously they are your speakers, and you can do whatever you want, and you might enjoy redesigning them. But I would start with a simple recapping.
Thank you very much. I'm definitely Keep them with the same tolerance. I ordered some. I haven't paid for them yet because they want $90 for. shipping fees. So, I'm trying to find some near me which is really hard. My capacitor is 5. UF, 200VD 1.5uf 200VD all the ones that I look at are 250vd and Dayton is. 5.1 UF 250 VDN. Change the inductor to Air Core I'm not sure what size that. friend of mine gave me set of UT12R speakers with blue cones cats chewed up can't find the cones for 111T2. Got in touch with simply speaker. and they can't help me out. Cone got some depth to them Crossovers look really good. This is turning into quite the project. Well, my project is in the garage, 81 Sierra Classic. The reason they took the crossover out was getting. a little bit of a. static. I turned it up and. what I did find was a couple wires just. hanging on by a thread. soldered them. Up It didn't sound like they used to. That's why I'm here. Thank you very much. for the advice Anymore advice you can give me? I'll take it. Thanks again, make any sense of this.
 

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