C'est arrivé, AR 2ax
- Thread starter cwh
- Start date
Indeed.
So hope nobody minds if I veer slightly off topic, but as I indicated I'm currently using a pair of AR 2's with a JansZen Model 130 external tweeters. It's a great match and I'm very happy with the combo. But it got me thinking about experimenting with my 2ax's and pairing them up with the 130's since the tweeter can be disconnected. But since it's a 3 way, I'm wondering how this might affect the mid's.
Thoughts?
If you do this by disconnecting the rear external jumper wire, you're going to lose the mid driver as well, essentially re-creating a woofer-only AR speaker like you've already done with the AR-2's. I'm not saying the JansZen's can't be made to augment the 2ax, which already has a designated "super-tweeter", but I don't think that application was an intended use for the separate tweeter array.
Thanks. So then what would be the best way of implementing the 130 without eliminating the mid driver? And why did AR give owners the option of disconnecting the rear jumper wire back in the day ?
The front-wired 2ax's share a common terminal, but I believe the rear-wired 2ax's have two separate internal wires for mid and tweet. With either version, you'll have to disconnect a wire and take the tweeter out of the circuit if you're trying to play only the woofer and midrange with the JansZen's, and you'll need to keep the jumper wire in place.
The paper labels on the backside of the speakers clearly offer directions "To convert to woofer only....", but I've never been fully clear about why or how often owners hooked up their speakers using this option. Even the early AR-6's have three terminals and jumper wire, and these are two-way speakers with an 8" woofer.
Very helpful. Thanks. I guess I'll leave well enough alone with the 2ax's. They're an early pair with cloth surround woofers, and while they sound fine was thinking that the 130 might be an improvement over the stock tweeter. I also have a pair of Micro/Acooustic tweeter arrays that I sometimes use with them but truth is that the 2's with the 130's are my favorite speakers at the moment, beating a restored pair of KLH Model Five's and Six's, the 2ax's and Klipsch Cornwall II's. They just have a nice synergy with the Fisher tube gear.
cwh
33
As I put more time into listening to the ARs two gut reactions are hitting me. These guys like Jazz and Soul. These guys will sound excellent with vintage tube power.
There's a good chance these speakers are from my town of Oakland. Don't think the original owner was some Lawrence Welk listening white dude from the burbs. Story I'm telling myself is owner was a session musician, did alright and the 2ax met both taste and budget.
Tube feeling is equally as chimerical. Although my first amp was an integrated Fisher tube, at 13 the nuances were lost on me. What wasn't lost was the Fisher's soul and it's haunted me for awhile. My 500c project is calling louder than ever, it's definitely time.
There's a good chance these speakers are from my town of Oakland. Don't think the original owner was some Lawrence Welk listening white dude from the burbs. Story I'm telling myself is owner was a session musician, did alright and the 2ax met both taste and budget.
Tube feeling is equally as chimerical. Although my first amp was an integrated Fisher tube, at 13 the nuances were lost on me. What wasn't lost was the Fisher's soul and it's haunted me for awhile. My 500c project is calling louder than ever, it's definitely time.
kvining
Active Member
I'm in the process of restoring an identical set of AR 2ax speakers, looking for suggestions on parts source and correct upgrades for crossover capacitors, also, Vintage-AR sells replacement L-pads that do not look like the originals (originals have red adjustment posts, his have a dial that affixes to the post, and his have more adjustment points) but he claims they are better, anyone have any experience with them?
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kvining
Active Member
Most definitely. When I first got my set I played them on my Pioneer SX-828 solid state at 45 watts a channel, then as extensions on my 1961 Motorola Drexel Console pushing maybe 15 watts. Sade Greatest Hits, the Motorola tubie won hands down. AR-2ax is definitely a tuber. Jazz and soul, they don't really like to rock. Aretha Franklin, whoa.
Like the OP has used, Dayton poly caps offer an excellent value, so here are some suggestions for one-stop shopping. You could use a 6.2uF cap or parallel two 3.0uF caps for the midrange, and the 4.0uF is for the tweeter. If you choose to replace the original pots with new L-pads, it's advisable to add a 25 ohm resistor on the midrange to more precisely re-create the performance of the pot. Doing the same on the tweeter L-pad is generally not recommended since these drivers have most likely weakened and it's often nice to get as much HF from them as they can deliver.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dmpc-40-40uf-250v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-421
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dmpc-62-62uf-250v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-427
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dmpc-30-30uf-250v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-418
https://www.parts-express.com/speaker-l-pad-attenuator-15w-mono-3-8-shaft-8-ohm--260-248
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dnr-25-25-ohm-10w-precision-audio-grade-resistor--004-25
cwh
33
I wouldn't lose sleep over crossover caps. I bet if the electrolytic challenge happened to me and my polys were secretly replaced with Dayton NPs I wouldn't notice a difference.
If the pots can't be saved then RaRa's option is the most cost effective.
Tweeters get tired and if you have the same later model type then I'd recommend a rebuild by AK member CJVx. Similar options may exist for the red dome type.
If the pots can't be saved then RaRa's option is the most cost effective.
Tweeters get tired and if you have the same later model type then I'd recommend a rebuild by AK member CJVx. Similar options may exist for the red dome type.
GD70
Lunatic Member
I've used the same L-pads but from PE for around 5 bucks each. Vintage ar prices are silly for those. I used them in a set of 2as and they worked perfectly. Keep in mind the wires hook up in a different sequence on the tabs than the originals.
I have a diagram somewhere and will post it when I find it.
Ah, ra.ra. beat me to it.
Glenn
cwh
33
Good call, whoa indeed.